Question about PP motors.
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Question about PP motors.
Once a PP has been acomplished would it be possible to completley remove the intermediatary housings, like remove them and replace with a thin sheet of metal or something, i understand a custom E-Shaft would be nesecary but is there really anything else stoping them being removed?
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yeah i understand that there is a cavity between the rotors for the oil same with the coolant, but these could just be cut from a sheet of metal.
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Just out of curiosity, which plates are the stationary gears on? Are they on the intermediate plate, or the end plates?
I'm liking this idea though - lots of oppertunity for weight loss and length reduction.
But does the oil DRAIN from the rotors into the intermediate plate, or does it just allow passage of oil from one rotor to the other? (I've yet to dismantle my engine and find out myself)
The e-shaft would have to be custom-machined from several blocks, you could have a (hollow) toothed shaft, and four off-centre cut cylinder blocks with slots to have keys inserted. This would sort out the problem of dismantleing it, but it would need a few measurements and a bit more drilling to get the right place to allow the oil to be released into the rotors.
Plus you could also change the angles of the rotors to whatever angles you liked using the keys and slots method - allowing you to do away with counterweights!!
This would also be a LOT cheaper than making the standard 20b style e-shaft
I'm liking this idea though - lots of oppertunity for weight loss and length reduction.
But does the oil DRAIN from the rotors into the intermediate plate, or does it just allow passage of oil from one rotor to the other? (I've yet to dismantle my engine and find out myself)
The e-shaft would have to be custom-machined from several blocks, you could have a (hollow) toothed shaft, and four off-centre cut cylinder blocks with slots to have keys inserted. This would sort out the problem of dismantleing it, but it would need a few measurements and a bit more drilling to get the right place to allow the oil to be released into the rotors.
Plus you could also change the angles of the rotors to whatever angles you liked using the keys and slots method - allowing you to do away with counterweights!!
This would also be a LOT cheaper than making the standard 20b style e-shaft
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Originally posted by yallgotboost
lighter and shorter you could make a very short 4 rotor that way
lighter and shorter you could make a very short 4 rotor that way
also i was thinking you may be able to put some type of bearing into the intermeditary plate as well to give the E-shaft even more support, and i think it would help the engine rev cleanly up into higher rpm's.
Only major problems that i can see are:
A. too much heat it too smaller space
B. the intermediatary plate will have to expand at a rate constant with the rest of the engine as not to destroy seals
C. it will have to be strong enough to hold the combustion pressure.
Last edited by Shamrock.James; 01-03-04 at 06:26 PM.
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But another thought, if you go into the realms of 4+ rotors, it'd be a good idea to add a centre bearing at a mid-point along the e-shaft. So at one point, you'd need a fairly thick plate to accomidate a bearing.
Oh yeah, and my e-shaft idea would make adding a bearing VERY easy, you'd just slide on a bearing section between the cylinders
Oh yeah, and my e-shaft idea would make adding a bearing VERY easy, you'd just slide on a bearing section between the cylinders
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Right then, i've just had a look, and I've found a pic of a rotary in bits, with a view of the intermediate housing.
It appears that this idea has great potential, since there are very few actual "links" between the two housings, so a piece of plasma-nitride coated steel about 8mm thick would do the job nicely. But getting the holes machined in EXACTLY the right place could be a pain.
And then you'd have to make the e-shaft........
Anyone got a machine-shop?
It appears that this idea has great potential, since there are very few actual "links" between the two housings, so a piece of plasma-nitride coated steel about 8mm thick would do the job nicely. But getting the holes machined in EXACTLY the right place could be a pain.
And then you'd have to make the e-shaft........
Anyone got a machine-shop?
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I was thinking you may be able to just press the holes right through, for say a test one you might want to drill the holes then cut them to get the right kind shape but if you plan on doing quite a few i was thinking you could press them, like make a jig for either side then you put in the sheet metal, and it drop 10tonne into it just popping the holes right through...
also another note from those pics you found ... i recon you could get a lot more coolant holes going through and so get better coolant flow.
Actuually one way i recon you could do it: get a piece of the metal you decribed then just clamp it to a regualr rotor housing, flip it over get some good drill bit an then drill through sheet of metal but placing the drill bit through the rotor housing (coolant holes) so then all the holes are in the right spot, then you can widen them up from the other side (metal sheet side) using a file or bigger drill bit or whatever.
also another note from those pics you found ... i recon you could get a lot more coolant holes going through and so get better coolant flow.
Actuually one way i recon you could do it: get a piece of the metal you decribed then just clamp it to a regualr rotor housing, flip it over get some good drill bit an then drill through sheet of metal but placing the drill bit through the rotor housing (coolant holes) so then all the holes are in the right spot, then you can widen them up from the other side (metal sheet side) using a file or bigger drill bit or whatever.
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But it's the e-shaft hole that would be a problem, how many drillbits have you seen that are THAT big
You wouldn't be able to get the clearances nessecary using a file on a hole that large, it'd be all over the place
You wouldn't be able to get the clearances nessecary using a file on a hole that large, it'd be all over the place
#18
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Originally posted by chairchild
heres the pic I looked at
heres the pic I looked at
Sorry to hijack the thead but I noticed a mistake in the engine layout in the photo. The rotor housings are facing the wrong direction. They have the spark plugs on the same side as the intake ports.
Just an observation, not that it effects what you are suggesting.
#19
There is a guy named Jeff Bruce here in NZ who machines up quad rotor shafts, $3500nz from memory. He also does the intermediate housing mod that involves fitting a stationary gear to each side(center housing only) and makes the thru bolts.
I saw an engine using his machined parts make its first drag strip outing a couple of months ago. It was an injected n/a 4 rotor PP in an FD doing low 11's. It sounded very similar to recordings of the Le Mans R26B.
I saw an engine using his machined parts make its first drag strip outing a couple of months ago. It was an injected n/a 4 rotor PP in an FD doing low 11's. It sounded very similar to recordings of the Le Mans R26B.
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Originally posted by RETed
Why don't you build the motor first and see if it'll run...
I wouldn't worry about 100 lbs. of metal unless you're talking some serious racing here.
-Ted
Why don't you build the motor first and see if it'll run...
I wouldn't worry about 100 lbs. of metal unless you're talking some serious racing here.
-Ted
And i'ts not really the weight loss i'm looking at here its the gains in stability, if E-shaft flex can be nearly completly eliminted boosting on 3+ rotor applications will be much easier, also i was considering the idea of a second stationary gear as well, like what was said about Jeff-Bruce even maybe one with a small ofset so the rotor revolves even smoother.
also i see what you mean Carmon... hope no-one uses it as a construction example LOL.
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Originally posted by chairchild
Jeeez....
four posts in a row. I need to get out more!!
But here's a quick mockup of that e-shaft idea I was on about, my explanation was kinda hard to follow
Jeeez....
four posts in a row. I need to get out more!!
But here's a quick mockup of that e-shaft idea I was on about, my explanation was kinda hard to follow
You will have to have a toothed shaft like you originally stated and it will have quite strong, now as for the rotor lobes you could make the rotor lobes longer as each rotor has an intermediary plate in front or behind it so you get a giant chunk of cylindrical metal, that then leave 8mm (width of the intermediary plate alone... then you lathe the rest down to create the lobe shape required, so you will have the smaller lobe cutout attached to the larger sized original full piece of cylindrical metal.
now this would slide down your new "key shaft" the larger end would go into a bearing in the intermediary plate and you would just have the lobe sticking out onto which the rotor would go.
Last edited by Shamrock.James; 01-04-04 at 12:02 AM.
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The splined shaft is a nice idea but there is the problem of clearance, you'd need some clearance to slide the lobes on but that would mean some backlash on the splines which would cause all sorts of problems as the eccentric shaft wouldn't be acting as a solid shaft.
you would need some sort of keyed interface that has a zero backlash design on each of the mating faces of the lobes and the spacers and somthing to pull them all together and put a constant tension on it to prevent it all from pulling apart.
what you would end up with is somthing that is relatively quite flexible in comparison to a solid shaft.
you would need some sort of keyed interface that has a zero backlash design on each of the mating faces of the lobes and the spacers and somthing to pull them all together and put a constant tension on it to prevent it all from pulling apart.
what you would end up with is somthing that is relatively quite flexible in comparison to a solid shaft.
Last edited by MikeLMR; 01-04-04 at 05:30 AM.
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Originally posted by MikeLMR
The splined shaft is a nice idea but there is the problem of clearance, you'd need some clearance to slide the lobes on but that would mean some backlash on the splines which would cause all sorts of problems as the eccentric shaft wouldn't be acting as a solid shaft.
you would need some sort of keyed interface that has a zero backlash design on each of the mating faces of the lobes and the spacers and somthing to pull them all together and put a constant tension on it to prevent it all from pulling apart.
what you would end up with is somthing that is relatively quite flexible in comparison to a solid shaft.
The splined shaft is a nice idea but there is the problem of clearance, you'd need some clearance to slide the lobes on but that would mean some backlash on the splines which would cause all sorts of problems as the eccentric shaft wouldn't be acting as a solid shaft.
you would need some sort of keyed interface that has a zero backlash design on each of the mating faces of the lobes and the spacers and somthing to pull them all together and put a constant tension on it to prevent it all from pulling apart.
what you would end up with is somthing that is relatively quite flexible in comparison to a solid shaft.
Also as for it all keeping together, a simple cross screw into the shaft would keep it all together.
IMO the rotors themselves are way too heavy and i think this is the main cause of most problems, but hey i'm a long way off from being able to redesign the rotor, and having a system that could handle them with thier current weight would mean a bulletproof system for lighter rotors.
#24
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Originally posted by CarmonColvin
Sorry to hijack the thead but I noticed a mistake in the engine layout in the photo. The rotor housings are facing the wrong direction. They have the spark plugs on the same side as the intake ports.
Just an observation, not that it effects what you are suggesting.
Sorry to hijack the thead but I noticed a mistake in the engine layout in the photo. The rotor housings are facing the wrong direction. They have the spark plugs on the same side as the intake ports.
Just an observation, not that it effects what you are suggesting.
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the nsu wankel spider front side housing is very thin in comparison to mazda's, so it is possible to do something like this, i question the benifits however, especially in relation to the cost involved