View Poll Results: How are your RA seals holding up?
Seals unnecessarily failed, between 10k & 20k miles
0
0%
Seals unnecessarily failed, over 20k miles
0
0%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 68. You may not vote on this poll
Poll: Success/Failure of RA seals?
03-19-06, 11:19 AM
#101
Originally Posted by patman
i didnt wear the side housings, i wore the rotor housings. other than expensive ceramics, i dont think theres anything you can do to the make rotorhousings harder. i didnt measure the rotor grooves, but they looked fine to my eye.
as stated in earlier posts, i used my premix/omp system where the mop pumps 2-stroke oil. everything looks to have been lubricated fine, except for those scratches. this engine went from stock turbo, maybe 220 hp when i first built it to af61, probably close to 500 hp when i blew it up on these seals.
I agree with you that if you are running engines on a 10k teardown cycle, and not afraid to replace the housings every 15k or so, then they would be awesome, because i abused the **** out of them and didnt break em. but i cant afford that kind of thing. I sort of need my engines to last at least 30-40k.
first 3 pics are the front rotorhousing, last one is where i ripped out the dowel pin.
cell phone quality, sorry.
note: these housings had 70k on them when i built this engine, and looked brand new.
as stated in earlier posts, i used my premix/omp system where the mop pumps 2-stroke oil. everything looks to have been lubricated fine, except for those scratches. this engine went from stock turbo, maybe 220 hp when i first built it to af61, probably close to 500 hp when i blew it up on these seals.
I agree with you that if you are running engines on a 10k teardown cycle, and not afraid to replace the housings every 15k or so, then they would be awesome, because i abused the **** out of them and didnt break em. but i cant afford that kind of thing. I sort of need my engines to last at least 30-40k.
first 3 pics are the front rotorhousing, last one is where i ripped out the dowel pin.
cell phone quality, sorry.
note: these housings had 70k on them when i built this engine, and looked brand new.
.
03-22-06, 12:23 PM
#105
the funny thing is, im still considering an RA kit for the 20B. Its cheap and easy, and they were very easy to deal with last time. I like having the detonation protection, especially since I decided to run the 3 rotor with a megasquirt. I just wish I could count on 50-60k miles between rebuilds.
Use lots of premix in your gas to greatly decrease wear. On my last engine I used factory mechanical OMP modified for full flow and 100:1 two stroke premix in the gas. Only got 3,000 miles on it
but rotor housings still had brillo pad scrachtes on most of it from cleaning. Next time I may save the premix for after break in. Premix keeps carbon deposits down in intake, exhaust and rotors as well!
Look at Racing Beat's recommendation in their rotary handbook/catalogue for how much premix to use on high HP turbo rotaries, it is very high!
Use lots of premix in your gas to greatly decrease wear. On my last engine I used factory mechanical OMP modified for full flow and 100:1 two stroke premix in the gas. Only got 3,000 miles on it
but rotor housings still had brillo pad scrachtes on most of it from cleaning. Next time I may save the premix for after break in. Premix keeps carbon deposits down in intake, exhaust and rotors as well!Look at Racing Beat's recommendation in their rotary handbook/catalogue for how much premix to use on high HP turbo rotaries, it is very high!
03-23-06, 07:06 PM
#106
I checked last night. RB says they use more premix for engines making more power to the point where they use 22 OZ of 2 stoke premix to 5 GAL gas in a 600HP 13B.
That is a premix ratio of 1:29!
Or 1/2 gallon of premix oil per gas tank!
If the RA seals look like they could use more lubrication than stock seals, perhaps try doing 1:29 premix for 500HP instead of their 600HP? Better calculate the octane of the premix so you can adjust your fuel octane and/or engine CR/boost to suit the mixed octane.
Smokin'....
That is a premix ratio of 1:29!
Or 1/2 gallon of premix oil per gas tank!
If the RA seals look like they could use more lubrication than stock seals, perhaps try doing 1:29 premix for 500HP instead of their 600HP? Better calculate the octane of the premix so you can adjust your fuel octane and/or engine CR/boost to suit the mixed octane.
Smokin'....
03-23-06, 10:31 PM
#108
Originally Posted by BLUE TII
I checked last night. RB says they use more premix for engines making more power to the point where they use 22 OZ of 2 stoke premix to 5 GAL gas in a 600HP 13B.
So did RB say anything about that much premix changing the octane rating?
03-24-06, 05:38 AM
#109
a lot of racing 2-strokes premix at 32:1. I would consider mixing this heavily if i can find a bulk supplier for 2-stroke.
youre talking about some heavy gas bills if i have to pay close to 3 bucks a gallon, plus another 50 cents for oil, especially on a car thats gonna get 10mpg or so.
youre talking about some heavy gas bills if i have to pay close to 3 bucks a gallon, plus another 50 cents for oil, especially on a car thats gonna get 10mpg or so.
03-24-06, 11:35 AM
#110
thats not paint....
Looking at this thread makes me want to rip apart my motor and put stock seals back in before I start it.....
Oh well, I will still give it a go
I plan to premix with the OMP still installed
I also believe in a 2k break in... but shortly afterwards I plan to expose them to 20-30psi
Oh well, I will still give it a go
I plan to premix with the OMP still installed
I also believe in a 2k break in... but shortly afterwards I plan to expose them to 20-30psi
03-27-06, 11:17 AM
#113
thats not paint....
Yeah I am big on a proper break in procedure...
Premixing was questionable, but after reading this thread I will be doing it
At least the seals are hard and will only warp or loose compression vs. blow apart and take out my turbo
I am sure I will be posting results
Premixing was questionable, but after reading this thread I will be doing it
At least the seals are hard and will only warp or loose compression vs. blow apart and take out my turbo
I am sure I will be posting results
11-16-11, 05:41 PM
#114
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rubbish
first time using ra seals and not happy have brand new everything and now have low compression on the front rotor. after only 900km off running in rich and with very little ign timing. will pull the motor down and report shortly......
11-16-11, 06:00 PM
#115
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I run super seals. Been running them for over 4K miles. Car makes 452whp on BNR stage 3's at 21psi and the motor is solid.
Friend of mine ran RA classics. He recently detonated the motor so hard that it broke 10 corner seals and split the rear iron. Apex seals were still in tact and we were able to reuse the rotors and housings. He boost creeped to 21psi on 89 octane gas running a stock FC pump with upgraded injectors. Car was a ticking time bomb and now he understands the importance of tuning and 93 octane.
From my experience these seals are beasts and as long as you tune the car correctly you won't have problems.
Friend of mine ran RA classics. He recently detonated the motor so hard that it broke 10 corner seals and split the rear iron. Apex seals were still in tact and we were able to reuse the rotors and housings. He boost creeped to 21psi on 89 octane gas running a stock FC pump with upgraded injectors. Car was a ticking time bomb and now he understands the importance of tuning and 93 octane.
From my experience these seals are beasts and as long as you tune the car correctly you won't have problems.
12-07-11, 02:05 AM
#116
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Pulled engine down yesterday as suspected the seals are badly warped and are very hard wearing on the housing and im using alot of lubrication.
Front housing had 30psi and rear 90psi. No damage to any other parts of the engine.
im running 10psi boost,10deg timing,98octane fuel,microtec lt10s ecu on a run in tune and i noticed engine getting harder to start and loosing power.
I will be emailing real world solutions with picutures and answers as the motor hasnt even been pushed. NOT HAPPY
Front housing had 30psi and rear 90psi. No damage to any other parts of the engine.
im running 10psi boost,10deg timing,98octane fuel,microtec lt10s ecu on a run in tune and i noticed engine getting harder to start and loosing power.
I will be emailing real world solutions with picutures and answers as the motor hasnt even been pushed. NOT HAPPY
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