Im thinking about buy a boost controller instead of making one(too getto).. What I want to know is, which is better, manuel or electric?? Also if anybody has a boost controller they would like to sell let me know.

 

Most people seem to have better luck with a manual-style boost contoller than the expensive electronic ones. Believe it or not, the Home Depot bleeder valve works great. If it didn't I might consider buying a nicer one but if something ain't broke, don't fix it.

 

I went with a Profec-B in the wastegate line, and it works awesome. The only problem with the manual controllers is that they won't adjust for different intake settings (i.e. different weather or altitude) while the electronic ones do.

It make is so easy to adjust. Turn it off and get 7psi of boost across the board, Turn it on, and I get 10psi. hit the switch button, and I get 14psi.

I bought mine used on the internet. It's not too difficult to find somebody selling there's for 200 or so...

Good luck!

p.s. I have the Profec in the WG line, and I've been thinking about putting an adjustable valve in the PCA line to adjust the pre-spool for better transitions, but we'll see. Does anybody know where to buy adjustable valves on the net??

 

I am running non-seq with a home depot bleeder valve.. doesnt work for ****.. tomorrow I am putting in a ball and spring valve which is suposed to work much better. my buddy is making it for me. $25

 

ball and spring valve is sooo much better. i like having 10 psi @ 3500 rpms again!

 

Care to explain the fundemental diffence between a bleeder valve and a ball and spring, and why you believe it to be working better?

 

the bleeder was acting really wierd. I wish I knew why, but it would hit 7 psi and creep to about 10-12 by redline at one setting. if I loosened it anymore it would only stay at 7, and if I tightend it anymore, it would overboost to like 16-17 psi. it wasnt very adjustable at all, but maybe it was just the valve I had. the new ball and spring valve does not open at all untill it sees a certain pressure on the ball and spring, so the wastegate is not able to open till it hits that point, unlike the other one which was basically an adjustable pill in the vacuum line.

 

The bleeder valve is simply a valve with an adjustable orifice. The ball/spring valves are either completely open or closed, so that you could adjust the pressure of the spring holding the ball to the opening. This way, the valve only opens when the pressure of the spring is reached.

If you're looking for a manual boost controller, I would definitely go with a ball/spring valve that you could buy anywhere for like $15-$30 on ebay or many other places on the net.

I was using a ball/spring valve in the PCA line since I already have a Profec controlling the wastegate, but there isn't much adjustability it seems. It works well, but it seems like whatever pressure I set the valve to, I get the same rising rate in the first turbo.

The consensus seems to be to use stock or close-to-stock sized pills for the PCA, but I'm going to try an adjustable needle (bleeder) valve and see how that works out.

 

boostvalve.com

 

Yeah that's actually where I got my ball/spring valve. It's a good piece that was well assembled, but I'm still not convinced if that's the thing to use in the PCA line...

 

Duh...

What's a PCA line?

 

No worries...PCA is the Pre Control Actuator, which controls primary turbo operation by diverting exhaust gas to pre-spooling the secondary turbo.

 

Ok, it's a twin thing.

 

I went to boostvalve.com
and it showed a spring and ball Check Valve. Good idea for keeping the boost in, but I'm curious how the pressure will be relieved from the wastegate since it's a check valve?
My guess is the other hose that runs from the wastegate to the Wastegate Solenoid. I was thinking about making my own Ball & spring check valve, and I don't think it warrants 40+ shipping for something I could make at Home Depot for 10-15. Thanks for the site though.