anyone ever tried making the seal/gasket out o copper or some other material?

 

Yes, I had some made out of inconel Helical springs wrapped in a stainless steel jacket and coated in silver

 

My next engine is going to experimentally be using some special jacketed wire, the jacketing is temperature-resistant to some absurdly high figure. A Zippo lighter doesn't even faze the stuff.

(okay okay so it's just aircraft grade 18 gauge electrical wiring, but I have a few spools of the stuff and, really, it should work just fine)

 

BAZAITOYOTA...an other forum.Some super space age stuff he had specifically made. AWSOME!

 

Wondering if anyone has tried this. Use 85 and older rotor housing and 86 and newer end plates. Since both have coolant seal groves, you can use a wider seal. This way when the motor tries to come apart from over heating or over revving the motor, the compression has to go around the seal instead of just sliding by the seal and rotor housing. If the right material was used that would not "melt" or burn through when exposed to heat out motors would last longer.
Please don't shoot me, Just a thought
chuck

 

It's not usually the seal that fails.
If the seal fails, it's usually due to a defect or bad installation.

The water jacket usually breaks, or if the engine is overheated all hell breaks loose.


-Ted

 

On a race engine it is the seal itself that normally fails,
especially if you've used J or Monster ports where the seal, or silicone, is exposed.


IanC