I've heard of people saying "use Devcon" but I haven't found any long-term success stories.

The nutshell is this: My next engine will be a 4-port 13B, and I need to use a center housing with provisions for motor mounts. Apparently, I have quite a few FC N/A center housings but only one GSL-SE housing, and I'm not certain that I'll be able to port the GSL-SE part's runners out to FC size. (I'm fairly certain that my not attempting this is part of what is holding my current engine back)

I'm currently using a modified FC driver's side mount on the passenger side, but it is not the strongest setup and I've had to repair it once already. I'd like to go back to using the FC style mount.

No matter what, I WILL be using GSL-SE rotor housings and 12A end housings. Engine life goal is 60k.

 

most people double up the seals. ghetto but that's what most people do.

 

I'm using round O-rings, so I can see many ways in which that could fail.

Plus, I like the idea of not relying on the FC housings' weak coolant grooves.

I know drag racers do this and drag racers do that... drag racers don't drive their cars 15-20k per year and do multiple back to back 60-150 second long runs with coolant and oil fully temperature-saturated.

Heck, I've seen drag racers coast into the pits because their engine was locked up from running hot. "But it's okay, it'll loosen up again in a half hour." Almost as bad as drifters as far as mechanical indifference goes. But it works for them, it only has to run for three or four 12-second runs with an hour between runs, and then a piggyback ride home on the trailer...

 

it's ok, take a deep breath..

i don't think you will find an answer better than "a hard expoxy" for the answer you're asking. you could try some other types of fillers like liquified copper, fill the gaps then let it cool and deck it but it also will eventually seperate because nothing will exactly match the thermal expansion/contraction rates of the cast iron. a soft metal like copper is about as good as you can do.

 

I don't want an "answer", I just want to know if anyone has done it for more than Dixie Cup style engines.

If not, well, looks like I get to put something to the test again

 

i wonder about getting a piece of aluminum that fits in there? or maybe copper?

 

Ive done some welding to a FC center iron, which went pretty well. Maybe its possible to tig weld the groove using a low amperage setting to minimize distortion and lots of wire, then surface and lap the iron. Since there isnt a oring groove anymore more material may be removed when surfacing / lapping. Should be bulletproof if it works.

 

I was thinking the same thing, or, possibly preheating the iron and using solder? What about scrapping the factory seal and trying to source some sort of oval or square viton cord to do the trick? You know, just fill the two grooves.

 

getting a double wide seal to mate into the opposing iron would be near impossible during assembly. wouldn't really work.