I am going to start a rebuild on my 86 n/a and i am most likely going to use the pineapple porting templates, but it seems they dont have an exhaust template, do you guys think it would be better to us ethe streetable RB template or the race RB template, i dont know how much different the 2 are so i thought you might have some insight. thx

 

use the RB street template.

 

and knock ou the diffuser in the exhaust sleeve... and buy ear plugs

 

yeah i plan on removing the diffusers, hell ill just turn up the stereo

 

Hold the phone! We just developed exhaust templates...finally. The challenge was making a jig to locate the template with the precision we felt necessary. I think we pulled it off admirably without making the cost excessive. An exhaust porting template and jig pair will be $35. Templates will also be available separately for $9.95, if you want other combos for other motors.







We will be developing other templates later, but these are a good start for most combos. EP1A is good for S4/5 NAs using TII rotor housings (we don't recommend bothering with the NA housings due to the baffles, but you can do that if you please).. The EP2A is recommended for 13B-REW (FD) small streetport engines or 13B-T (FC) medium streetport engines. The EP3A is recommended for 13B-REW medium or larger street port engines. And the EP4A is recommended for 13B NA bridgeport or peripheral port engines. You are free to follow the recommendations or come up with your own combo. The variations in setups are endless, so there is no one "right" answer.

I don't have the production run in my hands yet. These were samples to make sure my CAD drawings were correct. I hope to have them sometime next week, ready to ship. Again, $35 for a jig and one exhaust template. Additional exhaust templates are $9.95. Intake templates are also $35 each, so a set of intake and exhaust port templates is $70...not bad, I think.

 

holy shitballs! you guys rock! those look really nice and the price is definitely "not bad".

for those of you that don't have them, i can vouch for the quality of the Pineapple intakes. i have traditionally made my own templates (pre-'86 engines), but for my REW project, i chose to buy a template and after weeks of debating, i got the Pineapple one. they make my plexiglas templates (which don't look that bad) look like dookie. very high quality stuff, i must say.

 

Those are some snazzy templates! Out of curiosity, I see both earlier opening and a bit later closing, how bout the 1A and 2A? I understand that you intend to sell oodles of these puppies and may not be so inclined to reveal the details. I can respect that. I figure you guys know your poop and I'd like to know where that knowledge led you in design.
If I win the lotto I'm going to set up a flow bench and dyno and 20 engines with different porting combinations. I will sit there for weeks, months, just data-logging results. I'll do this while drinking fine beer as women dance around in bikinis...
Until that happens all I can do is beg others for their wisdom and hope I did my motor right

 

Thanks guys. They did turn out rather well, if I do say so myself. Sorry I am not at liberty to discuss the port designs in great detail, but suffice it to say that we have found them to work well in the real world. As soon as lasercutting delivers the production templates, I will post them to the web site for your consumption.

 

Christmas has come early!

 

I put the exhaust templates on the web site for pre-orders. Hopefully, I will have them later this week, but it could be next week.

Link to the Porting Tools category: https://www.pineappleracing.com/inde...S&Category=109

Direct links to:

EP1A: https://www.pineappleracing.com/inde...ROD&ProdID=137
EP2A: https://www.pineappleracing.com/inde...ROD&ProdID=138
EP3A: https://www.pineappleracing.com/inde...ROD&ProdID=140
EP4A: https://www.pineappleracing.com/inde...ROD&ProdID=139

 

I received my EP3A set today. Great quality!

 

Glad you liked it. I hope to have more variety of templates available shortly, now that we know they turned out well.

 

This looks awesome, but I am curious...this seems like overkill, versus simply laying a straightedge between both dowelpins and making a mark on each side, like everyone else in the world does. Why did you feel it necessary to go to such extremes for that last 1/64" of alignment?

 

perhaps it decreases the chance of someone screwing up that much more ???

 

perhaps...most people aren't exactly reckless when porting to begin with.

 

well, i don't know about "most", but it's not my intention or my place to speak about anyone in this capacity, so i won't argue. that said, (and i'm not trying to speak for Blake) the fact still remains that some people are reckless (or inexperienced or dumb, or whatever), so if it's no great loss to them (Pineapple), why not do it the way they did?

 

Damn! I don't even have any use for these templates but after looking at them I want to buy them..... Very nice.

 

you could just eyeball the template and do your own...

 

I don't know what the controversy is, unless it is nitpicking for the sake of nitpicking. The tempate and jig together retail for what a template alone costs elsewhere, and the jig makes alignment foolproof...which is important because we know there are people out there that have a hard time following directions based on other products we have sold. People manage to do strange, unintended things and it's my job to at least try to anticipate and avoid them where possible. We also have higher standards for precision than many places and the jig ensures that precision. Overkill, absolutely, but it was (1) easy to do and (2) relatively inexpensive.

 

Good jig is cheap compared to a buggered housing especially if it's your first time. I used the RB template and it was my first time porting. I'll admit I was confused or at least lacked confidence in the placement. I was using a template for a turbo motor on an NA and didn't know if it was right, wrong, or just not going to work for my engine. Luckily I had you guys and a shitty housing to practice on.

 

Oh, gee, that was subtle, wow, I have no idea what you could be talking about.

At least you managed to learn something from previous product release screwups.

Of course, it is a bit difficult to fault people for failing to "follow directions" when there are actually none included with the product, but you displayed your professionalism and represented your company well by attempting to do so anyway "based on past products you have sold".

I've been made aware of your comments and feelings regarding me and what I do, and I think you know my opinion of you and what you do, so we'll just leave it at that, unless you see fit to do otherwise.

 

It seems we can do no right in your eyes. First we are too lax by thinking verbal directions were sufficient three years ago (before I even worked for the company, BTW) and now we are apparently off our rockers with paranoia by providing a positioning jig for exhaust porting templates. I don't care if you forgot that you got verbal instructions or if someone forgot to give them to you or make sure you understood what they told you...it was a mistake to trust that the customer would be able to figure things out with just verbal instructions or call us for verbal instructions if they didn't recall getting them and we have learned from that. So, yes, your case is a good example why we now go to extremes to make sure customers have fewer possibilities to screw stuff up. Because when our products are used/installed correctly, there are fewer potential problems and our customers are happier. We are not perfect (nor do I suspect you are, either) but we strive to improve.

I don't know you, never met you, never even talked to you on the phone. I don't talk about you behind your back, as you claim, because I have nothing to talk about. We are not competitors because your customers are a completely different market than ours. I do, however, offer people the general advice that a quality motor built with a lot of new parts is a better investment than a floorsweeper, because it is a fact. A $1,500 engine is built with about $500 in parts and $1,000 labor while a $3,000 engine is $2,000+ parts and less than $1,000 labor...the price difference is all new parts and the labor invested is more in clearancing than cleaning! I also honestly believe that anyone who thinks new rotor housings are optional on a quality rebuild may also think a lot of other parts can be reused that would end up on the floor of our shop, or uses aftermarket alternatives that are inferior to factory parts. So, that hypothetical $500 in new parts may be even less in many cases. I am not singling anyone out because I have no specific knowledge, but it just stands to reason. Compromising people find all kinds of creative ways to compromise. I also ask people, why pay a professional to build a half-assed motor when you can do it yourself with equal results and save the labor? Even if you screw up, not only did you learn something, but you can rebuild it again and again and still be ahead. Whereas, with a quality engine that is expected to last as long or longer than the original, the risk of damaging new parts makes professional assembly a smart investment. These, again, are just general observations that I make to those who question our pricing. I am not attacking any one person or even suggesting that a short-lived rebuild is not a reasonable alternative if you lack the budget to invest in a quality engine. Some people want to invest and other just want to get back on the road as cheeply as possible. That's the difference in the market and why your customers are unlikely to see the value in our services and why our customers are not likely to see the benefits of your compromises.

Don't take that as a dig against you because it's not. I can understand, however, how my position devalues your end of the market and why you might feel animosity towards me for sharing it. I do believe that the average guy looking to save money on a rebuild is better served doing it himself or just buying a used motor until he can save up enough to pay a professional to do it right. Just my opinion. However, I don't think there is any threat of that end of the market drying up!

 

Paying a professional to do it right? Why do John's engines come screaming into my head...
I've seen more reports of failure on the "professionally built, new parts" pineapple rebuilds than I have on any of Kevin's, so you can save your "reliability" rant for a situation where it actually applies.

Don't take this as a dig, though, but I can understand if you feel some animosity towards me for pointing out your hypocrisy.

 

You know I don't disagree with either methods of rebuilding however, it's really nice to have a choice for an economical rebuild for the budget minded. Regardless of either method, it will forever and will always come down to the tuning of the engine and the proper supporting external mods. A rebuilt engine with all new parts isn't any more durable than an engine assembled with used parts. Main difference is the newer engine has the potential to put many more thousands of miles on it. Both engines will blow just the same.



Anyhow those are some really slick templates. Kudos to the person that came up with those.

 

Pineapple racing is the most reliable rotary engine rebuild source in Portland, i know cuz i live here and know all the other "shops" that do rotary rebuilds don't compare. Their rebuilds are quality and Rob will always answer any questions you got so im calling B.S. on your accusations.