Engine Bolts Question
11-13-05, 10:51 PM
#1
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Engine Bolts Question
I'm finally putting together my ported engine.
All new internal parts and the side housings have been lapped.
Should I torque the bolts to 30 lbs and use some Lock Tite red? I think the stock torque spec is 27 lbs.
All new internal parts and the side housings have been lapped.
Should I torque the bolts to 30 lbs and use some Lock Tite red? I think the stock torque spec is 27 lbs.
11-14-05, 09:22 AM
#3
Lives on the Forum
The "stat-o-seal" washers under the tension bolts keep the damn things from backing out. 
You can torque them to 30 no problem, but there's really no reason to go over the stock spec of 27.
-Ted
You can torque them to 30 no problem, but there's really no reason to go over the stock spec of 27.
-Ted
11-14-05, 09:37 AM
#4
Originally Posted by RETed
The "stat-o-seal" washers under the tension bolts keep the damn things from backing out.
You can torque them to 30 no problem, but there's really no reason to go over the stock spec of 27.
-Ted
You can torque them to 30 no problem, but there's really no reason to go over the stock spec of 27.
-Ted
11-14-05, 09:56 AM
#5
atihun,
As stated, the washers help to keep them in place however not all that well. It's a common practice to retorque the bolts when doing flywheel work (and you will notice some lost torque depending on how long it's been since they were torqued last).
I used the larger racing studs ( http://mahjik.homestead.com/files/FD...7/DSCF0448.jpg ) and torqued mine to 45 ft/lbs. A local friend who has a Pettit motor has been torquing his stock bolts to 50 ft/lbs for years. Pettit has now started torquing their motors (and race motors) to either 40 or 50 depending on the application.
As stated, the washers help to keep them in place however not all that well. It's a common practice to retorque the bolts when doing flywheel work (and you will notice some lost torque depending on how long it's been since they were torqued last).
I used the larger racing studs ( http://mahjik.homestead.com/files/FD...7/DSCF0448.jpg ) and torqued mine to 45 ft/lbs. A local friend who has a Pettit motor has been torquing his stock bolts to 50 ft/lbs for years. Pettit has now started torquing their motors (and race motors) to either 40 or 50 depending on the application.
11-14-05, 02:05 PM
#7
Originally Posted by 13B-RX3
Where did you get these studs from Mahjik? Are those the oversived studs that act like dowles?
http://www.xtremerotaries.com/
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11-14-05, 02:07 PM
#8
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
I would love to do the stud replacement however it would add another 600+ to my project. I will be using a Xcessive oil pan, which will help with flexing.
Below is the exact reason I want to use Lock Tite. When I replaced my clutch fork at 75K, I checked the bolts and none of them were to spec; all were 'loose'.
So why not use some Lock Tite?
Mahjik, didn't you torque yours to 40? Any disadvantages? I really don't see any (except for the bolts snapping) as there is a maximum amount of compression that can happen between the housings and plates; meaning they can't get any closer.
Below is the exact reason I want to use Lock Tite. When I replaced my clutch fork at 75K, I checked the bolts and none of them were to spec; all were 'loose'.
So why not use some Lock Tite?
Mahjik, didn't you torque yours to 40? Any disadvantages? I really don't see any (except for the bolts snapping) as there is a maximum amount of compression that can happen between the housings and plates; meaning they can't get any closer.
Originally Posted by Mahjik
atihun,
As stated, the washers help to keep them in place however not all that well. It's a common practice to retorque the bolts when doing flywheel work (and you will notice some lost torque depending on how long it's been since they were torqued last).
As stated, the washers help to keep them in place however not all that well. It's a common practice to retorque the bolts when doing flywheel work (and you will notice some lost torque depending on how long it's been since they were torqued last).
11-14-05, 02:25 PM
#10
Originally Posted by atihun
I would love to do the stud replacement however it would add another 600+ to my project. I will be using a Xcessive oil pan, which will help with flexing.
Below is the exact reason I want to use Lock Tite. When I replaced my clutch fork at 75K, I checked the bolts and none of them were to spec; all were 'loose'.
So why not use some Lock Tite?
Mahjik, didn't you torque yours to 40? Any disadvantages? I really don't see any (except for the bolts snapping) as there is a maximum amount of compression that can happen between the housings and plates; meaning they can't get any closer.
Below is the exact reason I want to use Lock Tite. When I replaced my clutch fork at 75K, I checked the bolts and none of them were to spec; all were 'loose'.
So why not use some Lock Tite?
Mahjik, didn't you torque yours to 40? Any disadvantages? I really don't see any (except for the bolts snapping) as there is a maximum amount of compression that can happen between the housings and plates; meaning they can't get any closer.
I'm pretty sure I did as I used three steps to torquing them up. I first did 20 ft/lbs in the correct order, then 40, then 45 (as I was going to do 50 but decided not to).Its to mainly to stop any flexing/twisting of the motor, not necessarily to keep all the pieces together as yes you aren't going to get any closer.
I can't think of any problem using locktite. Just make sure to chase the threads first.
Originally Posted by 13B-RX3
Who machined your motor, or dud you send it to aus?
11-14-05, 03:30 PM
#11
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
They have a set that doesn't require machining of the housings? I didn't see that on their site a while back...
Damnit!!!! Now I have to spend more money.
Damnit!!!! Now I have to spend more money.
11-15-05, 10:04 AM
#18
Originally Posted by 13B-RX3
Do you also do the oversized bolts and the machine work?
What is the frieght charge from AUS though, they don't include shipping in their price...?
11-15-05, 02:06 PM
#20
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by 1Revvin7
What is the frieght charge from AUS though, they don't include shipping in their price...?
11-15-05, 10:43 PM
#22
Originally Posted by 13btnos
What's the torque specs for the stud bolts you sell? Are they same as factory or different? Very interested in them. Also my motor has extra dowell pins will the stud bolts still go through the dowell pins?
I feel dowel pins are totally useless, but every engine builder has their own ideas.
But then again they guys I have spoken with who hold NHRA titles do not use them either....
11-18-05, 09:37 PM
#24
Originally Posted by EFINI_RX-7_RZ
With the studs that don't need machining, do the irons or housings fit looselly around them or is it a snug, tight fit?
11-18-05, 10:18 PM
#25
Originally Posted by Mahjik
It's a closer fit (at least with the Aus ones). The stock ones are 9.something mm. Their replacements which don't require machining are 10mm.