I'm finally putting together my ported engine.

All new internal parts and the side housings have been lapped.

Should I torque the bolts to 30 lbs and use some Lock Tite red? I think the stock torque spec is 27 lbs.

 

no lock tite is needed at all.
28lbs max torque is all that is needed.

 

The "stat-o-seal" washers under the tension bolts keep the damn things from backing out.

You can torque them to 30 no problem, but there's really no reason to go over the stock spec of 27.


-Ted

 

Correct, wouldn't matter anyhow they just ask like bubble gum and keep on stretching...

 

atihun,

As stated, the washers help to keep them in place however not all that well. It's a common practice to retorque the bolts when doing flywheel work (and you will notice some lost torque depending on how long it's been since they were torqued last).

I used the larger racing studs ( http://mahjik.homestead.com/files/FD...7/DSCF0448.jpg ) and torqued mine to 45 ft/lbs. A local friend who has a Pettit motor has been torquing his stock bolts to 50 ft/lbs for years. Pettit has now started torquing their motors (and race motors) to either 40 or 50 depending on the application.

 

Where did you get these studs from Mahjik? Are those the oversived studs that act like dowles?

 

Yep. They aren't a replacement for dowel pinning, but they can offer more strength without the machining:

http://www.xtremerotaries.com/

 

I would love to do the stud replacement however it would add another 600+ to my project. I will be using a Xcessive oil pan, which will help with flexing.

Below is the exact reason I want to use Lock Tite. When I replaced my clutch fork at 75K, I checked the bolts and none of them were to spec; all were 'loose'.

So why not use some Lock Tite?

Mahjik, didn't you torque yours to 40? Any disadvantages? I really don't see any (except for the bolts snapping) as there is a maximum amount of compression that can happen between the housings and plates; meaning they can't get any closer.

 

Who machined your motor, or dud you send it to aus?

 

lol, I had to check what I said I used since I forgot. I posted that I used 45 ft/lbs so I'll stick with that. I'm pretty sure I did as I used three steps to torquing them up. I first did 20 ft/lbs in the correct order, then 40, then 45 (as I was going to do 50 but decided not to).

Its to mainly to stop any flexing/twisting of the motor, not necessarily to keep all the pieces together as yes you aren't going to get any closer.

I can't think of any problem using locktite. Just make sure to chase the threads first.

I used the studs that don't require machining (they have two different sets).

 

They have a set that doesn't require machining of the housings? I didn't see that on their site a while back...

Damnit!!!! Now I have to spend more money.

 

lol, here's picture of them in the bag before I installed them:

http://mahjik.homestead.com/files/FD...0/DSCF0059.jpg

 

I've also been making studs in the shop for a while now.
These ones require no machining of the block...

 

Very nice!

Are yours more reasonably priced?

 

I do them w/ hardware for $325 shipped in lower 48 states...

 

Do you also do the oversized bolts and the machine work?

 

I thought the Aussie ones are about 290....

 

No, I could do them one off but you would be better off just buying those from that AUS company. I can do the machine work though...

What is the frieght charge from AUS though, they don't include shipping in their price...?

 

What's the torque specs for the stud bolts you sell? Are they same as factory or different? Very interested in them. Also my motor has extra dowell pins will the stud bolts still go through the dowell pins?

 

5 to 7 day shipping is about $45 from the reply I received.

 

How much for the machine work? Would this be stronger than adding extra dowells?

 

80 to 90 ft lbs, but they are good up to 120 ft lbs.

I feel dowel pins are totally useless, but every engine builder has their own ideas.
But then again they guys I have spoken with who hold NHRA titles do not use them either....

 

With the studs that don't need machining, do the irons or housings fit looselly around them or is it a snug, tight fit?

 

It's a closer fit (at least with the Aus ones). The stock ones are 9.something mm. Their replacements which don't require machining are 10mm.

 

So the irons and housings still move around a little, or is it almost as tight as when placed on the dowels?