Direct Port Nitrous Fogger Install!
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Direct Port Nitrous Fogger Install!
I painted (high temp of course) my lower intake manifold and drilled and taped it for the foggers.... sorry for the crappy pics. I used my vid cam to snap them, because I left my digi cam's plug down at the garage and its dead...
Last edited by bladz311; Feb 28, 2004 at 03:22 AM.
built my own engine
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Buckhead, Atlanta
from experience, i can say that the high temp "paint" isn't going to hold up
you should have used powder
and also, i usually see people tap for nitrous on the bend where the UIM meets the LIM, are you sure yuo'll have clearnace where you did it?
you should have used powder
and also, i usually see people tap for nitrous on the bend where the UIM meets the LIM, are you sure yuo'll have clearnace where you did it?
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 505
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Yea, I think I'll have the clearance. If not, then I just wasted all day, haha. The guy that built my engine said that it would clear there. I was going to put it in the bend of the upper until he said that, hope he wasn't wrong, haha. If it burns off, then I guess I'll get it powder coated (or maybe I'll just never start the car so it can't burn off haha).
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I wish I was driving!
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: BC, Canada
Originally posted by 93BlackFD
and also, i usually see people tap for nitrous on the bend where the UIM meets the LIM, are you sure yuo'll have clearnace where you did it?
and also, i usually see people tap for nitrous on the bend where the UIM meets the LIM, are you sure yuo'll have clearnace where you did it?
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 505
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Originally posted by scathcart
Another good reason for palcing it there (higher up in the runners) is that it allows for better air/fuel atomization, and thus, more power.
Another good reason for palcing it there (higher up in the runners) is that it allows for better air/fuel atomization, and thus, more power.
you should angle them so they spray with the flow of air.. also i would back them out a bit .. you are cutting down on the amount of air that can get by....
instead of 90 degree angle i would do 45 or less......
instead of 90 degree angle i would do 45 or less......
aka KingDrunk
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Atlanta, GA
is that considered a wet or dry nos system? since you said that its direct port injection, im guessing that would be a wet system. explain the diffrences between the 2. oh and how hp will that add?
I wish I was driving!
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: BC, Canada
Originally posted by astrochild7
you should angle them so they spray with the flow of air.. also i would back them out a bit .. you are cutting down on the amount of air that can get by....
instead of 90 degree angle i would do 45 or less......
you should angle them so they spray with the flow of air.. also i would back them out a bit .. you are cutting down on the amount of air that can get by....
instead of 90 degree angle i would do 45 or less......
Please ignore this advice. He just sprayed fuel directly onto your intake runner walls.
Can you say... Backfire?
Astrochild must have zero experience with nitrous injection... or lots of bad experiences.
Leave it exactly as you have it. Only thing to chancge in the future is moving it up in the runners.
I wish I was driving!
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: BC, Canada
Originally posted by SNracing
is that considered a wet or dry nos system? since you said that its direct port injection, im guessing that would be a wet system. explain the diffrences between the 2. oh and how hp will that add?
is that considered a wet or dry nos system? since you said that its direct port injection, im guessing that would be a wet system. explain the diffrences between the 2. oh and how hp will that add?
A wet system adds a mix of nitrous and fuel together in a dense fog. The amount of fuel and nitrous added is determined by jet size, in each of the fogger nozzles.
Dry systems install a nitrous jet only in the fogger, and then typically use an FMU to up the rail pressures to compensate or added fuel.
Wet has a tendency to backfire more easily, but that can be next-to-eliminated with proper installation. Dry is harder to tune, more limited on power (usually), and seems to have a tendency to blow more engines through detonations.
I only ever install wet on a rotary.
Most street nitrous systems use a single fogger nozzle, mounted in front of the TB, or via a spray plate mounted just below the carb.
Direct port uses one separate fogger nozzle mounted in each intake runner... so 4 fogger nozzles for 13B and 4 cyclinder engines, 6 foggers for a 20B/6 cyl, 8 for a 8 cylinder, 2 for a PP 13B, etc.
I wish I was driving!
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: BC, Canada
Originally posted by 82streetracer
wet adds fuel, dry doesnt.
wet direct port is the best way to go.
wet adds fuel, dry doesnt.
wet direct port is the best way to go.
Under equal Power levels, a spray plate will make more HP because the N2O/fuel is betetr atomized.
Direct port is mostly for huge power, multi-stage systems.
W. TX chirpin Monkey
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Mesquite, TX
So do you see a problem with my direct port with only 2 nozzles. Only on the secondary runners. Also on my TII tapped them further down the runner. on the last bit of straight pipe, before it goes into the engine. I was told this was the ideal place. It's from a very reputable source. I don't see why i would see poor atomization, with high FP, and higher than stock boost.
I wish I was driving!
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: BC, Canada
Originally posted by fastrotaries
So do you see a problem with my direct port with only 2 nozzles. Only on the secondary runners. Also on my TII tapped them further down the runner. on the last bit of straight pipe, before it goes into the engine. I was told this was the ideal place. It's from a very reputable source. I don't see why i would see poor atomization, with high FP, and higher than stock boost.
So do you see a problem with my direct port with only 2 nozzles. Only on the secondary runners. Also on my TII tapped them further down the runner. on the last bit of straight pipe, before it goes into the engine. I was told this was the ideal place. It's from a very reputable source. I don't see why i would see poor atomization, with high FP, and higher than stock boost.
Atomization takes time. The farther you place it from the ports, the more atomized the mixture will become. If your shop told you otherwise, they will either lying, or are flat out ignorant to the truth.
There have been countless dyno's (on piston engines) to prove this fact. You should really tell your shop to look into it.
W. TX chirpin Monkey
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Mesquite, TX
TII, but he uses NO2 and is a 2X street tire world champ.
I've heard what you've said from other people. But they mustang owners, and didn't come across as the brightest individuals. However, i've also heard that under boost, atomization shouldn't be that much of a problem. Plus the pressure of the bottle, and the quality of the NX foggers. You have certainly used the bottle before and i value your opinion. A 50 shot should be enough to get things going, i think.
I've heard what you've said from other people. But they mustang owners, and didn't come across as the brightest individuals. However, i've also heard that under boost, atomization shouldn't be that much of a problem. Plus the pressure of the bottle, and the quality of the NX foggers. You have certainly used the bottle before and i value your opinion. A 50 shot should be enough to get things going, i think.