jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

guys i am planning teardown an FD and just replace the softseals and springs due to a bad coolant seal... i have done 4 FC rebuilds (s5 TII's) and i'm wondering if there is anything in particular i need to watch out for when tackling an FD rebuild, as compared to an s5 TII rebuild.

thanks

t-von

iTrader: (8)

All 13b's are all practically the same. You have more than enough experience to successfully tear down this engine. Just put all the old seals back in their original locations, however I would at least get the old 3 piece apex seals out of the engine since they break so easily in higher mileage situations due to the top piece getting shorter and more brittle.

You can also go to the 3rd gen section and download the 94 FSM if your still in doubt.

RETed

Short blocks are pretty much all the same...

Go for it!


-Ted

Tsi_Xtreme

Jacob my offer still stands dude. I'll help you out if you want it. I'd hate for you to have to do anything you didn't want to do or that you'd regret later.

Turbo II-FB

short blocks are the same tehy are both 13b's

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

I believe Karack told me once that seperating the motor/tranny was more difficult on an FD. Something about 'pulling' vs. 'pushing'? Can't quite remember, but I'm sure someone will chime in.

Ottoman

FC uses Push type clutch

FD uses pull type clutch..

the bearing is stuck to the PP on the pull type.. rather then the tranny shaft

RETed

Most people just pull the engine and trans as a mated unit.

There's a "clip" on the FD pull-type PP.
You need to pop the clip off / back, and this will disengage the PP from the input shaft.
It's a ROYAL PAIN if you don't know what you're doing, and I even heard of some folks removing all 6 PP bolts (keep rotating the engine / clutch manually) through the clutch inspect hole just to get the engine to detach from the trans.


-Ted

t-von

iTrader: (8)

Yep first time I did it was a bitch. Had to get on the forum for help because the shop manual doesn't explain the process to well. After I got it separated I re-installed that collar and just kept trying to remove to see how it really worked. Now separating it is easy.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

yes i know about all this pull-type clutch business, i changed my clutch a couple weeks ago.

i was wondering about the shortblocks and the differences between things inside the front cover.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

It's all the same dude. As I said 4 days ago, you can download the 94 FSM from the 3rd gen section if you doubt us.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

i'm not doubting anyone, i was just wondering. thanks for the info guys.

RETed

The Torrington bearings are bigger for the 13B-REW, and the front stat gear is slightly different due to this.
If you never knew about this, I doubt you would notice.
Disassembly and assembly is all the same - you just can't swap the parts around between 13B-REW versus 13BT unless you change the front stat gear and thrust bearings.
Basically, it's all the same.


-Ted

Indian

iTrader: (1)

If all 13b's are the same, does that mean we can use the seal kit for the 87-90 13b rebuild kits?
Cause if that will work, I'll be buying some kits like mad.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

Yes those will work for the short block. Personally I like to make my own kit from local shops and buy the McMaster-Carr Teflon encapsulated coolant seals and viton oil control rings seals. It saves a **** load of money compared to OEM.

Turbo II-FB

so does antyone ahve pic son how to remioce the trans form the engine ont eh FD hae todo tah next week

RETed

If you're talking about "seal kit" as in the apex seals, etc., then yes with the exception of the corner seal springs (FD ones are better).

If we're talking about the "gasket kit", the engine -> turbo exhaust manifold gasket(s) are different, but a 1987 - 1991 FC turbo gasket for that particular application is the cheap option - the FD uses two separate metal gaskets which are more expensive!


-Ted

Turbo II-FB

?? anyone