I wanted to convert the series to a parallel fuel setup so this what I came up with.

Cut the ends off the stock rails and TIG weld on some -6 fittings. Then I bent over and bought the aeromotive FPR. I also made my own fuel distribution block to "Y" the fuel to each rail and also made it so I can run the return fuel through it also. Last I bent the tubing to connect it all.

What do you think?

 

another

 

Very clean Cam!

 

another

 

Thanks!

 

Hotness!

 

Damn that is a nicce job. Come do mine now.

 

Well thats a clean install!!

Nice work!

 

What they said ^ !!

 

I love it!

 

Ahh comon now... there has to be some criticism? Where is ReTed??

Thanks guys.

 

Hey, nice , neat work there, I like it a lot..

 

did you use aluminum or ferrous metal tube ? I've got the one step up AEROMOTIVE FPR for my cosmo hybird motor.. what's your FP setup ?

 

Doh!

If you wanted my opinion earlier, you can always PM me and point me to this thread.

If you want some criticism...

1) Heat soak into the fuel lines might be an issue.  I know it's significantly cheaper to run the hard lines, and I do comment you on your work - VERY NICE!  SS AN lines are more expensive, but they do a little heat isolation due to the rubber hose.

2) I'm still not convinced about running (aluminum) hard line for fuel lines.  In previous years (5+ years ago), it was frowned upon to run the metal hard line for fuel.  SS AN hoses were the standard.  I noticed Russells has stated that their hard line is good for up to 200psi, which should work for most fuel injection applications, but I have zero experience with that stuff.

3) Watch the heat going into the FPR.  I noticed your turbo is going to be spaced pretty far away, but a little heat shielding might help reject heat radiating to the FPR and lines going in / out from it.

4) I dunno how accurate your machining is for the splittler block, but a lot of the pre-made y-blocks tout "flow matched" passages, etc.  Even if it's off by like 10%, I don't think it's going to be that much of an issue.

Bottom line, I still think you did a great job.  It looked like a ton of work!  How long did it take to do this project from start to finish???


-Ted

 

spanner- thanks

silverpain- alum tubing, I have a bosch fuel pump located near the stock FB fuel pump location.

RETed- Ahh... I knew I could count on you!

1) That's my only concern, heat soak into the fuel lines. I could have sprung for the SS tubing but the Alum I had in the garage was too tempting not to use. It's a good thing I like to run around with 1/2 tank or more in my car at all times.

2) If you want a bad *** setup you toss the hose in the trash and break out the bender! j/k j/k I like the way bent tubing looks over that "flashy" SS hose. When using a hose where tubing could be used looks kind of hacked to me (the hydraulic background in me comming out here). For shitts and giggles I should bring a section of the alumn tubing to work and put the burst chamber to work on it. I'm guessing it would crack at 3000psi. I'm guessing that 200psi "rated" pressure they give it has a hefty safety factor. I've used this tubing in my car for the past 3500 miles for the lines behind the firewall, so-far-so-good. I think people don't use it because they are afraid or don't know how to bend/flare. I tell you what... the price can't be beat.

3) I have a SS heat shield already that protects the lower intake. Once I get the turbo back on I'll have to take a look at it again to see if it will shield the FPR also.

4) I placed the inlet on the splitter block right into the center of the two outlets but to be honest I'm not too worried about pressure drop through the splitter. I'm not pumping a huge volume of fuel through the two -6 outlet ports.

Thanks for the complements! I was expecting "it's all junk, throw it away" or something like that. It wasn't all that hard, just time consuming. I think I have about 4hrs into machining the block to the correct size including the -6 ORB ports/cross drills. I do have to admit I did screw up a couple times bending the line that goes from the outlet of the reg back to the splitter block. Had to make 6 bends on that tube. Good thing I had a few extra feet of tubing to start over. I'd say I have about 8-10 hrs into it total.

 

how is your oil system set up? by the way, the fuel rails look excellent. it's a very professional looking job.

 

Ahh.. I was wondering if anyone was going to look at my oil filter housing eliminator and say "WTF is that thing"

I made that Y block to feed the two holes on the rear plate (pressure relief and engine bearings). I have a large 10micron oil filter at the end of that hose that you can't see in any of the pic's that filters ALL the oil that the oil pump pumps vs just the oil that reaches the bearings. So that's the reason for that.

 

what direction is the fuel flowing? doesnt the fpr have to be on the return side?

 

It is. The pump goes into the little manifold I made then two out to the fuel rails towards the rear of the car, fuel runs though the rails then goes to the FPR where it dumps it back to tank.

 

very impressive

i thought that was a 3d gen engine bay at first...do you have a 13b rew in there? the lim looks real similar

 

Nice Cam, very nice

Only crituque...what happens if/when you throw a fan belt?

 

Good eye!
I had to go back and stare at it...
Yep, Cosmo 13B-RE.
The extra rear housing bolt hole makes it an automatic engine, and the small rusty "dip" right below that confirms it's a Cosmo motor.


-Ted

 

Wow. Looks good.

Couldn't you wrap your fuel lines with some insulating substance and get rid of the heat soak worry?

 

i was right about to say that.. yeah wrap the lines

 

nice work, friendly suggestion, place some of DEI's insulating sleeve over the lines to alleviate/minimize the heat soak issues.

DEI Cool-Tube Part # DEI-010406

Best price I found was a www.barnettperformance.com

John