Rotary Car Performance General Rotary Car and Engine modification discussions.

Bridge specs

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-23-05, 07:35 PM
  #1  
Hopeless Rotorhead

Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
RandomHero's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: N. Houston, TX
Posts: 590
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Bridge specs

Okay, so im drawing out my port for my n/a. Its going to have a decent size street port on the secondaries, a small bridge for the aux. ports and the primaries will be only smoothed a little. Anyway, ive done the bridge on a junk housing and it turned out pretty nasty. So this time im going to be real careful and measure everything out to the mm. I figure i'll go up 3mm on the auxilliaries, but in order to know how far out i can go with them i need to know just how thick the bridge needs to be in order to insure that i dont snag any seals.

I ran a search on the subject and no one really gave a clear answer on how thick the bridge needs to be on the surface area of the iron. But there was a thread on how thick the material needs to be from the surface of the iron the inner surface of the runner, im not really worried about this since i wont be back-cutting it.
Thanks,
Brett
Old 08-23-05, 07:49 PM
  #2  
Rotors still spinning

iTrader: (1)
 
rotarygod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Houston
Posts: 4,181
Likes: 0
Received 19 Likes on 13 Posts
Brett, when are you going to be at the shop next time? I'd like to stop by and chat with you. I assume it's down near the beltway on Veteran's Memorial.
Old 08-23-05, 07:55 PM
  #3  
Hopeless Rotorhead

Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
RandomHero's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: N. Houston, TX
Posts: 590
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
mon-fri 10-6 saturday 10-4 Yeah we are on veterans about a halfmile north of the beltway.
Old 08-23-05, 08:51 PM
  #4  
Old [Sch|F]ool

 
peejay's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Cleveland, Ohio, USA
Posts: 12,507
Received 416 Likes on 296 Posts
Originally Posted by SGPguy
Okay, so im drawing out my port for my n/a. Its going to have a decent size street port on the secondaries, a small bridge for the aux. ports and the primaries will be only smoothed a little.
I haven't heard anything good about trying to run a bridge only on the aux ports.

In fact, mazdaspeed7 found that his aux bridge was faster with the aux ports wired shut! Something about the greatly different port timing sharing the same runner causing everything to get upgefucked. Might work just fine if you had a separate pair of runners altogether for the aux ports. Although the easy way to do it would be to use the existing secondary runners in the upper and lower for the aux ports, blocking off the secondary ports, and routing the new manifolding to the secondaries. But then you'd have to figure out what to do with the secondary injectors, since they would now just puke at the aux ports, bad thing if they were closed.

You'd want the bridged ports to open with respect to manifold vacuum. Low vacuum = ports open.

I ran a search on the subject and no one really gave a clear answer on how thick the bridge needs to be on the surface area of the iron.
I see 5mm everywhere. After taking measurements (turning an apex seal into a scribe and running a rotor around after marking up a housing) 5mm doesn't seem like very much...
Old 08-24-05, 06:55 PM
  #5  
Hopeless Rotorhead

Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
 
RandomHero's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: N. Houston, TX
Posts: 590
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by peejay
I haven't heard anything good about trying to run a bridge only on the aux ports.
...
Yeah, actually. Rotarygod (fred) stopped by and we chatted about what I was going to do. It would seem that im trying to overshoot, in other words, i cant really justify that kind of port on an n/a. I'll prolly go with a mild streetport, cuz at this point I just want my damn car back on the road. I'll post some pics when the porting is done.




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:46 PM.