I used a BLITZ before and they cant hold high PSI. I am using the Tial now and it can hold whatever boost You through at it. I get comp. surge at low boost or light throttle but not enough to damage anything plus You can just here it venting and is not loud.

 

I would have to agree about the GReddy type S and the Blitz. I have seen both leak at high PSI. I've also seen the GReddy type S stick several times a fry a couple of friend's turbos! The HKS SSQV is a great BOV, but is no match for the Tial. That is by far the best BOV on the market and will probably not be outdone for several years to come. Just my take on things.

Zach

 

I am going to say greddy only bc yeah I have one and I think it sounds pretty good too.

 

I have the older hks super BOV, but i am running a fairly stock turbo and relatively low boost. works great for me though. plus it's all vac operated, no spring adjustments to fiddle with.

 

turboxs type h-rfl

 

I was one of the first guys with a rotary to use the Tial, I had alot of comunication with them over the bov, they were originally shipping it with a spring that cracked around 26 inhg, then they came with a lighter one that was about 18 in hg, I ended up have to make my own, that cracked at 9inhg, I forwarded them my spring info, and thats apparently what their new spring is based on..
One thing I have found with my car, is that in order to make the Tial work properly, and to get rid of surge, is to setup the closed throttle idle properly, a working back valve is a must with a tial, alot of guys with stand alone ems's skip the bac valve install, some ems's don't support it either, the wolf bac valve control is super shitty, and the microtech has to be pre configured hardware wise to use it, I have the haltech, which does allow bac valve control, but it has to be setup right, in the hitman and haltech manual it talks about setting the minimum idle on the throttle plate, and using the bac for idle up when a/c , or alternator load, drags the idle down, people without bac valve have to set the idle up a little higher than normal to compensate for alternator and a/c loading at idle, so that when the lights and electric fans come on, the motor doesn't stumble down and die.
Its that little bit that the throttle plates are open that delays and weakens the vaccuum signal enough to make the tial not open fast enough, its a very large valve with alot of surface area, and it needs a good signal to crack early enough..
I strayed from the Hitman/haltech and pretty much took out the minimum idle stop on the throttle plates, got rid of the throttle delay pot thats on the throttle body(its a spring loaded plunger with a diaphragm that sucks through a small orifice that makes the car throttle down slowly to allow the stock computer to catch up to the changing fueling requirements under deaccel and get the bac valve open...
So now my throttle pretty much just snaps 100% shut, and the bov is now alot more active than it used to be, even in light accelaration when I let off I get the psssshhttt, where as before even with a super light spring I would get the big turkey gobble effect, its important to get the settings right in the haltech for the bac valve, the bac valve can be setup so that the haltech controls the motor just like the stock setup, and make it act like it still has the deaccell vac pot, just by playing with the settings...
I use 14 for a ms value. 32 for the steps, and minim open of 25% hot, and 75% hot opening.. The car behaves pretty good with these settings...max

 

None of those. SCC did an article a while back and the 1G DSM factory BOV turned out to be the best.

 

You want it close to the compressor; that's what you're trying to protect. Mounting it close to the compressor also makes it easier to vent back into the compressor inlet - it won't make the sound that everyone finds so important, but it'll keep your turbo spinning faster to improve response between shifts.

 

How do you find out which spring your TiAL came with?

 

I just got a Greddy Type R. Is the spring that comes with that good for 15 psi. or do I have to change out the spring or something ?

 

WRONG. You want the BOV close to the throttle plates. When you shift, you let off the gas, closing the throttle plates. When those plates close, the pressure wave is started there. With the BOV close to the plates, it vents off this extra pressure before it gets anywhere near the turbo, keeping the turbo spinning in the right direction, and keeping it spinning as fast as possible. If the BOV was right near the turbo, the pressure wave would travel all the way back through the intercooler, and almost back to the turbo before it is vented off. Mounting the BOV close to the turbo does make it easier to vent back to the inlet, but it is not the most effective place to put it.


Also, for lower boost, budget applications, www.tyfoonmotorsports.com sells a $50 BOV that works great and doesn't leak at all. I'm only running 8psi, and for a low boost setup like mine, it's a great choice. Those $200+ BOV's are completely overkill unless you're running enough psi to really need them.

 

I'd have to say HKS, i haven't gone through other bvs that are as loud as this one, IMO.

 

HKS Racing Type 2 hands down...or the SARD R2D2 for lower boost levels...

 

you know I have a blitz bov and its pretty sweet.A bit pricey but i think its worth it.I mean with the stock spring it takes up to 18 psi.I think the upgraded harder spring handles about double that.Not too shabby.And it sounds pretty damn good too.

 

I stand corrected. A quick check of the article validates this.

 

lol.. call me young, dumb, and ugly, but.. I love the power and the screetch of the BOV during shifts. If I have read this correctly, you guys say noise is because the BOV is too restrictive, and could be doing a better job, well.. damn. I would have to think it over if I could spare a few horses, because I really do like hearing it. I dont mean a ridiculous RFL one, but one that can be heard, and put that silly grin on my face. lol.. Now that I think of it, it will all depend on what Max persuades me to do

 

i have the stock 1 vented. not very loud, but its free

 

I have HKS SSBV and I think it sounds the best, easy to install. And looks good too.

 

The first blitz is junk. People like it for the noise, hands down. Mine surged at anything below 1 psi, and leaked 2 inHg of vacuum. This is unacceptable to me. I got an HKS SSQ now and it blows off when I let go of the throttle even at -10 inHg.

 

Anyone have a sound clip for the Greddy type R?Also a website where I can buy one.Thanks.

 

Greddy type r is the way to go. Opens up when needed no delay. The type s IMO is the best sounding one. If your not pushing more than 12 on a stock turbo then your not going to have any problems with it. After that your gunna have problems with the piston getting stuck anything over 13 psi on stock turbo and about 9 on a 62-1..especially blowing off after full boost. So type r is the way to go. The hks is good if you m have mild porting or less anything other than that the valve wont open completely because of the inability to produce vacuum on bp-pp or race ported engines. since the hks is vacuum dependent

 

I don't see much point in having the BOV before the intercooler (unless it is due to space limitation issues).

The ideal placement is generally considered to be as close to the throttle body as possible, so that when the throttle plate snaps shut, the air flow can quickly escape instead of forcing back pressure through the IC and to the BOV if it were mounted before the IC.

 

tial

 

I want to see your blitz setup

Mike

 

i have a blitz for sell tonyttt@comcast.net