Hey whats up guys... So i'm pretty new to the rotary scene, but i'm a bit familar now with the FD3S's engine after running through the manuals and stuff. I'm not to familar with the reocurring or known problems to happen on these cars, but I took a few pictures that I was hoping some of you guys can possibly give some input in.

First of all, when I bought the car the previous owner said he rebuilt the engine as well as did a large streetport on it. There's no way of me telling this, but maybe you guys can. Additionally, the reason why i'm taking the car apart was because I had a leaking line from the primary to the secondary rail, which in turn caused my car to run lean (car would boost, but not accelerate), please correct me if i'm wrong... Moreover, one night I was about to take the car for a test drive, and noticed there was a puddle of fuel under the intake manifold (the leaking fuel line).

Here are some pictures of things I found.

*Leaking oil pan??? I've read these are known to warp, and for that reason they leak..???







*I'm not sure what the wet green stuff is, but I'm hoping that the puddle of fuel under the manifold didn't cause any damages to the seals or anything.




*Fuel Lines: I read that there was a recall for the fuel delivery lines. Was it this one...? It was leaking where the line connects to the aluminum fitting from the primary rail.



*Lastly, how do these injectors look...? Lol The o-rings looked like crap when I took them off their seats (they were all ripped up).







All responses are welcome, regardless of negativity and flaming... Just please make sure it's beneficial advice... Lol

Thanks Again!

 

I'm guessing its had a rebuild before from the pics. The oil pan design on our cars is poor. If you are using the oem gasket for the oil pan it's likely to leak. most people use "the right stuff" gasket sealant and no oem gasket and that does the trick. there are also a few companys that make an oil pan brace that is supposed to help as well. My pan works fine w/o the brace. you may wanna change the gaskets for you oil inlent lines also. the green stuff in between the irons and housings is probably hylamar(spelling) which is a substance used when doing rebuilds to hold the seals in place. you can get new orings for the injectors. there are places where you can get them serviced though for a fair price. hope this helps you out!

 

yeah leaky oil pan isn't uncommon... the factory used silicon (8527-77-739 is the Mazda part number, although anything decent works) also get the oil level sensor o ring N326-10-T11.

i also see a drop of oil on the turbo drain hose, so you should investigate this too.

the fuel line you have circled is the one that got replaced in the recall, the original was just normal hose with clamps, and they changed it to that style. the recall kit is available i think it was N3A1-10-S60A, (might be N3A1-13-S60?) but you should double check that, its been a while.

the injectors do need new orings, that should be pretty simple.

the port runners on that engine are smooth, so at least that part has been ported, stock is just left as cast...

and green liquid is usually coolant.

 

metthinks the green/blue in this case is something akin to hylomar sealant for coolant seals used in what looks like a recent assembly

leaks from the oil pan/ turbo drain are often forced because the vac circuit for scavenging sump pressure is often deleted or badly modified

its no good just replacing the gaskets/ sealants if this is the root cause ,, you need to hook up a catch can WITH a vacuum
( usually back to the air cleaner, or to the TB via a purge control valve ))

 

Sounds good guys... Thanks again for the input!

j9fd3s: Yea i'm thinking of just tapping some AN twist-lok fittings from the primary to secondary rails, and I think that should do the trick. The other side of the primary rail has already been tapped with a fitting anyways.

bumpstart: I do have a Cusco catch can lying around that used to be on my subaru, will that work fine...?

 

as long as its the type you can hook a source of vacuum --a whole subject in itself
( like from the air cleaner ,, or via a purge control valve from TB ,, the can/ sump space MUST have vacuum )

 

Question about the fuel injector O-rings now... I don't have any experience changing top feed injectors. But since I never took the injectors off the KG secondary fuel rail, would or should I still need to change the O-rings (where the fuel injector and fuel rail meets)? If so, do you guys know what size o-rings they are or if they are the same size o-rings that are replaced at the tip of the injectors?

*I know its common sense, but for reliability purposes, I'm not sure exactly what type of o-rings are changed on the top feed injectors. I noticed that there other rubber o-rings or grommets on the injectors circled in red. Should these be changed as well???

 

Alright fellas... I know it has been a long time since i've updated this thread, but i've finally got all the small things solved. Although it's been a really long time, and i've forgotten some of the plugs that plug in to some things... Can someone possibly help me out...?

Does anyone know what plug or if any plug hooks up to this? *I have a single turbo setup btw...

 

Actually to rephrase this question, can someone shoot me some feedback on what plug this is? I am still pretty new at working on these things, and this project was put on hold for a bit that I forgot where some things went.

Please let me know...

Thanks

 

Nevermind... I've figured it out.

It's a solenoid, but I don't know which one... Turbo control valve I believe...