fcdrifter13

ok one day(not any time soon the car i was gonna put it in i have to sell) i plan on putting a 13b-rew into a 2nd gen. Yes this has probly been gone through already and yes I do know that it is expensive. I really do care my main is, what kind of electronics am i gonna have to run with this. either one the twin set up or the single setup.

Also what would be a good single turbo setup to run on this.

Thanks in advance guys.

insenothepunk

Well I'm no expert, but I've researched this also. On the twin side of things it gets interesting. If you want to retain the sequintal setup then you have to have all of the solenoids and everything off the car. Running non-seq is easier. Either way you are pretty much going to have to run a standalone. Just what I know, maybe it will help.

NAFC3S

i would do the RE swap. all you need with that is motor mounts. the REW you would have to tap the middle iron or weld in a crossmember to mount it on. the REW mounts are on the rear iron opposed to the FC mounts in the middle. im in the middle of the swap myself. i have a haltech E6X and TO4S (on the way) you can run the TII ECU and S5 turbo setup if you want to be cheap. although it isnt a bad time to get a big single.
i was going to run the twins but found to make them non seq was going to be a bitch i was like screw that so im going single. at min the cost will be around 3000. dollars depending on what done to the car and what can be sold for extra cash. you could probally use a stock TII rad if your on a real tight budget. but heres a link

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/SWAP/COSMO/13b-re.html

pretty good site check it out.

Later

Brian

mazdafun

Hi.

I am doing this swap shortly on my 2 FC's. They are being buildt for drifiting, and I have a few engines around to use. The cars are NA 6 ports. Drivetrain is completely swaped from a Turbo II.

1. Is the oilpan interchangable between the REW and the 6 port? If it is, is it just a matter of drilling and treading the holes in the centreplate, and bolt up?

2. Can you use the twins? Will they have room?

3. Clutchwise, what is an easy/cheap way? I can get a sinterplate pretty chap, but is the pressureplate from any other Mazda usable? (maybe comercial vehicle B2000, etc?). The Pull type REW is not working with the push-type FC, or is there an easier way out of this?

4. Electronics will be stock, and running ReA ECU's. Any hints on problems in this division? Will run complete stock engine wiring, and solder in the Ignitors, etc.

Any other hints and tips are welcome.

Thank you

RETed

Then I guess you missed some of the information...
I don't know of any stand-alone EMS that has successfully controlled the stock twin turbos on the 13B-REW.
This implies that if you want true sequential control, you need the stock FD stock ECU or something similar - i.e. A'PEXi Power FC.


Check the Single Turbo section...there's enough info in there.


-Ted

mazdafun

Hi all.

Bumpy up. Is there anyone with good info here?

Thanks

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

2. they do physically fit
3. if you're using an fc transmission, use the fc clutch/pp/disc

mazdafun

Hi.

Thanks for 2 and 3. Now what about the rest (1 and 4)?

Have a nice day.

Rotortuner

I just wanted to add that I have 13bREW that was mated with an auto in an FD. Im going to swap it into my FC pretty soon. On my REW the engine does NOT have the studs for the drivers side engine mount. there is onle 1 just next to the lower block drain. So im not sure if this is only a problem with engines out of auto cars or all the REW. So what im seeing is that the center plate will have to be drilled and tapped for the passenger side mount and then use an FC pan. Also a custom mount will have to be make for the driver side that incorperates the studs used to mount the AC. 1 stud just wont do it.


Below are pics illustrating my issue. The first pic is of my REW the second is 13BT.

Also has any one considered using the FD coils since they are a smaller more condensed unit? im going microtech, so it would be easy.

savana

the t2 sump cant be used on the rew because of the rews timing cover. trust me the best way to do this is the way i done it, use a t2 centre housing on a rew block then use the t2 front cover and sump, you will need to drill and tap sump bolt holes on the rear plate you will also need the t2 cas. from here it all bolts in no problems if going single turbo

mazdafun

Hi.

Will the CAS from a T2 or a NA FC(USA spec) work with the REW computer?

I would hate to have to strip the REW just to change the middle plate..

..then again, it might be a good idea, and start drifting with a fresh engine...

Thank you for your posts...keep em' coming.

Rotortuner

OK that sounds like it would make it a lot easier. I have a couple more questions for you.

I havent checked, but there arent any studs on the fc center that interfere with the use of the REW LIM?

Are the primary ports any smaller on the FC vs. REW?

Which ignition coils did you use? I want to use the FD ones since the unit is smaller and more compact. im using microtech, so i think that should run them.

I think i will end up using the FC front voer becuase i have clearence issues with using the serpentine belt pullys. Is the FD crank trigger system more accurate to a degree that makes it worth using? or is the FC one basically just as good?

Thanks for all the help.
CJG

savana

the primary ports do look a little smaller but not by much. i used a microtech so used bosch coils, as for the crank trigger im not sure if you could use the t2 cas on the fd ecu, possibly as they both send g and Ne signals you would just need to find out if they send them at the same intervals the fc i think from memory sends the Ne signal every 30 degres

BoostedRex

Savana,

Just to make sure I understand this, if you use a TII center plate and front plate the the REW becomes a bolt in motor and the need for custom mounts is gone? I'm just curious about this. Also, were you referring to S5 TII plates or S4 TII plates? Thanks for the info.

Zach

savana

yep if you use the centre plate from a s4 or s5 it bolts in, i used a series 5 centre plate you will need to drill and tap some m6x1mm bolts on the rew rear plate so you can bolt the t2 sump to it and your done

BoostedRex

Very interesting!! Thanks for the tip Savana. I'll have to look into that. I was prepping for a 13B-RE swap into my S4 TII, but I couldn't source an RE block for under $2,500 so this might just be the alternative I was looking for.

Zach

j200pruf

iTrader: (4)

You can buy motor mounts that will let you bolt a REW into a FC, just PM mazdaspeed7 infact you can search his name and find the posts about them.