Well, I suck at drifting.
#51
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Like I said man, ditch the hand brake and start using the skinny pedal to initiate your turns. In te end you will become a more skilled driver.
Parking lots are fine as long as try are empty:abandoned. I used a rundown airport to learn how to drift many many years ago. I was in a trams am before bush was elected. And found flaws in the cars design so I moved on to fwd family cars till two years ago when I needed to go fast again. Now I have a tail happy seven
Parking lots are fine as long as try are empty:abandoned. I used a rundown airport to learn how to drift many many years ago. I was in a trams am before bush was elected. And found flaws in the cars design so I moved on to fwd family cars till two years ago when I needed to go fast again. Now I have a tail happy seven
#52
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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Yes I will agree with you there, Most of the time for professional driving you do need those items, I'll stop arguing. The main point I was trying to make was for all of us normal human beings who want to drive for fun and don't have the overflowing pockets in order to fund a professional drift car, you don't need really much of anything to drift. You could do well track days absolutely stock, It all depends on how you know your car. Like I said before, work on your skill. Then work on the car.
^every drifter in Japan has at the very least coilovers, a bucket seat, and an LSD or a locked diff. Even beginners.
#53
Yeah I first tried drifting on a welded. From the way my old VLSD ran in the rain, it was the smart move. I would not have had a good event without a locked differential.
As for technique, coming from a road course background, a couple things were very different:
I didn't want to point the nose of the car at the apex before initiating.
I learned that clutch kicking, while very reliable to initiate with on a lower powered car, it simply won't work if you're too close to red line.
I also learned that I head a very different idea of what inputs people meant when they said stay on the gas 100% of the time when initiating. A couple seconds thinking about the weight transfer involved in that maneuver should have you visualizing terminal and non-recoverable under steer. -- More important than building entry speed and staying on the gas pre-drift is taking a half second or so to transfer weight back to the front axle before initiating with a clutch kick. It took a few times into a padded tire wall to figure that out, but it was a critical lesson to learn.
As for technique, coming from a road course background, a couple things were very different:
I didn't want to point the nose of the car at the apex before initiating.
I learned that clutch kicking, while very reliable to initiate with on a lower powered car, it simply won't work if you're too close to red line.
I also learned that I head a very different idea of what inputs people meant when they said stay on the gas 100% of the time when initiating. A couple seconds thinking about the weight transfer involved in that maneuver should have you visualizing terminal and non-recoverable under steer. -- More important than building entry speed and staying on the gas pre-drift is taking a half second or so to transfer weight back to the front axle before initiating with a clutch kick. It took a few times into a padded tire wall to figure that out, but it was a critical lesson to learn.
#54
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if you are just starting out in drifting you need to start out with very basics of doing donuts and figure 8s. you need to be able to be comfortable with the car being out of control. kinda like balancing on a wire.
that's all drifting really is
that's all drifting really is
#56
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last year was my first year drifting an FC, even though it has about 230whp, its still an effort to keep it sideways, first of all you need speed, lots of it, using the ebrake will drop some speed so you have to compensate and go in a little faster, just relax and take your time learning, track is the best way as you become relaxed, not worrying about hitting **** or cops.
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