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Where to Mount 1/2" NPT Oil Temp Sender?

Old 02-27-08, 09:38 PM
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Where to Mount 1/2" NPT Oil Temp Sender?

Im currently looking to buy a mechanical oil temp gauge. For the most part, all full sweep 2-5/8" gauges in my price range are mechanical. And, all of these gauges seem to use a 1/2" NPT.

Where do you mount these senders?
Every aftermarket oil filter pedestal I've seen is have either two 1/8"NPT ports or one 1/8" and one 3/8"NPT ports.

I know a lot of you track guys use mechanical gauges. Where are you mounting them?
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Old 02-27-08, 09:50 PM
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A lot of the gauges ship with a 1/2 nut but there are 3/8 nuts available.

http://autometer.com/cat_accessorieslist.aspx?pid=9
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Old 02-27-08, 10:51 PM
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I though that just worked like a compression fitting with brakes?
With just the 3/8" nut, theres nothing keeping the sender from moving front to back.
Autometers mech senders (or the ones Ive used) have a bit of a flare at the base that creates a seal when the 3/8" is tightened down into the 1/2"
I could very well be mistaken, but if I am, I cause myself a huge pain in the *** with my temp sender.

Also, is anyone running the temp gauge in the oil pan? I know there is a factory sensor there. Would the temps read different if read elsewhere?
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Old 02-28-08, 01:02 AM
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It's not a good idea to use those adapters because it pulls the sender out of the fluid so it'll be less accurate and slower to react. VDO has better adapters, they don't have the nut portion, so they don't pull the sender out of the fluid.

I've got my oil temp sender in the oil pan. I took it off and got a bung welded on. It doesn't necessarily need to be a sender bung, it can be anything that can be welded on that will accept the sender and allows the sender to sit fully immersed in the oil.
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Old 02-28-08, 07:43 AM
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There are two halves to the assembly. The adapter piece that has the 1/2" thread on it now (or 3/8" if you buy the optional one) and then the compression nut that's already on the sender. The flare is part of the adapter. If you buy an optional 3/8" adapter it will have the flare as well. If you use the same depth adapter as the 1/2" piece that came with your gauge it won't pull the bulb any further out of the fluid stream. Or you can mount it in the pan as suggested above which is popular as well.
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Old 02-28-08, 08:46 AM
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I overlooked the 3/8 to 3/8 adapter on the page you listed, C. Ludwig. Sorry for the confusion.
Since I already have my oil pressure reading off of the stock oil filter pedestal, it would be most cost effective just to weld the 1/2" nust that comes with the gauge to the oil pan and mount the gauge there.

What kind of temps are you seeing on the track when read from the oil pan Black91n/a?

Thanks for all the great advice guys!
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Old 02-28-08, 09:21 AM
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If memory serves something like 220-230*F. I'm just using the one stock oil cooler at the moment and have a very stock engine, so not too much power (not too much heat). I expect I'll have to upgrade once I start to make more power.
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Old 02-28-08, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Black91n/a View Post
If memory serves something like 220-230*F. I'm just using the one stock oil cooler at the moment and have a very stock engine, so not too much power (not too much heat). I expect I'll have to upgrade once I start to make more power.

That's a bit higher than my temps and I read from the side of the pan as well. One stock oil cooler like Black, but I come in around 200, sometimes less. These are track temps with 5500-8200 operating RPM's.
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Old 02-28-08, 10:20 AM
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Thanks a lot guys.
Sound like the oil pan will be the best bet for me.

Is anyone running dual stock coolers? Ive been searching quite a bit and couldnt find much information on it.
I guess I should get a gauge installed and find out what my temps will be before I jump to the conclusion I need two coolers.

My current set up includes a 2-1/2" thick 26x19 Afco Dual Pass rad. I plan on ducting it all in before I hit the track, but havent had the time to do anything yet.
Shimmed oil pressure reg at 80psi.
Heavily streetported motor (pineapple 6 port template)
Its an S4 block that I built myself, so I dont really rev it much over 7-7.5k although I am using S5 stat gears.

I plan on running the car at a few local track days here in Indiana, probably 2 or 3 at Putnam Park and maybe some at IRP.
The events Ive been to at Putnam are no longer than 30 minute stints, so I dont know if thats even enough track time to see problems.

Thanks for helping out a youngin'!
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Old 02-28-08, 11:51 AM
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Ported = more power. More power = more heat.

http://www.negative-camber.org/crisp...c/fcpart28.htm
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Old 02-28-08, 02:12 PM
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WOW! I cant believe Id never seen that whole series of write-ups.
Tons of great info.
Thanks Black91!
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Old 02-28-08, 05:44 PM
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Those are great links.

230 is a little hot but within range. Duct a little more air to the cooler if you can. I saw 270 once. It was not a good thing!

I would tell you to try and find an old Mazdacomp cooler, but man they are hard to find. I found one on the prod forum a few years ago. Oil temps stay at a solid 180-200 no matter how hard you push it.
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Old 02-28-08, 07:03 PM
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Yes, cooler is better, Mazda Comp says that 250 in the pan is the danger zone, so I'm still a ways away from that. I've got a front lip for the car that I'll be putting on in the spring and I plan on adding a bit of ducting to it to get some more air to the rad and cooler (it has an opening in the middle).

I could be wrong on those temps though, but I know that I didn't get close to the danger point of needing to slow down, so it's ok for now.
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Old 02-28-08, 07:06 PM
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Think Id get anywhere close to that with just running 30 minute track sessions with the OE cooler?
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Old 02-28-08, 07:18 PM
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It hasn't been brought up yet but IMO water temps are much harder to keep under control than oil. I see you have an Afco radiator, don't know much about them. Even with my AWR/Mazdacomp/Ron Davis (same radiator, sold under these names) it took a long time to get enough air through the radiator to keep temps under 210 and more preferably 200. Lots of different duct work variations with a splitter and different additives before I got it right. I even added an elec fan as a backup on hot days to draw more air through and for the grid. Be very aware of your water temps the first time out.

Temps rise quick when running at high RPM, only takes a lap or two. Also depends on the ambient temp. I think the OE cooler will be fine as long as you have good air flow. I've ran in 100 degree weather and still had no problem with the one OE cooler. Water is another story.
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Old 02-28-08, 07:53 PM
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They Afco I have ordered should be great (hope Im not jynxing myself).
Like I said, its 26x19x2.5 All aluminum, dual pass, all for $225. Best thing is, they make them 30 minutes from my front door.
I plan on making a thin plywood undertray sometime this spring along with aluminum ducting on the sides. I already made a lexan rad tray for the top, so I hope that works well also.

For keeping a tabs on things, I have a 2 5/8" Autometer water temp mounted in my face on the cluster surround. For security, I even though about buying a 220* warning light sender and using it to ground a 114 decible buzzer I picked up at Radio Shack. Just as a last defense.

With the few suspention mods I have, I dont expect to have a lightning fast car on the track, I just want to learn how to drive, have a good time, and not blow anything up.
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Old 02-28-08, 09:26 PM
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You'll probably be ok, but if the temps climb too high just start short shifting a bit or lift off on the straights. I've run with a 100% OE cooling system before with no problems. I've since upgraded for safety as I've started pushing it a lot harder than I did at first.

One possible reason that high rpm cooling is compromised is if you're running stock pullies, you could be running into cavitation, in which case a set of underdrive pullies could really help.
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Old 02-28-08, 10:19 PM
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Thanks for all the advice guys!
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