mp5

iTrader: (3)

I have a street driven FD that is tracked for fun and I,m posting here because some of you guys may better recognise theese symtoms. Ambient temps were 75 C degrees, PFC was reading.95 cgm on stock twins and after 15 minutes of hotlapping I saw the temps reach 117C so I pulled off and popped the hood open with the fans on.By the afternoon the temps were dipping into the low 120,s and I had put in about a gallon of water two times so I parked the car for the day. With the coolant refilled we drive home, after 25 miles we have to pull over, the temps again are reaching 110 115C.We hear a lot of gurgling,I have a new Koyo rad with ducting,also the thermostat is new as are the hoses so at the next chance we fill with about 50% antifreeze to try and keep liquid in the system.The fans are are working ok but I notice that the radiator is very cool on R/H side, the opposite side to where the water is coming in,but it is now dark and we are by the side of the freeway,so we push on.We fill one more time,the outside temps are now in the 50,s and we manage to get it home.
Do I have the vanity to beleive that a new t/stat or caps will fix the leak? I am prepared to rebuild if that is required, but would happily replace the water pump if it worked for someone else.Comments please.

mp5

iTrader: (3)

Nooo..one!!

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

If you have trouble starting it and once you finally do it smokes/steams like a train then your seals are bad otherwise its something else Sounds like it might just be a coolant leak somewhere. Good luck

ErnieT

iTrader: (2)

Could also be an air pocket. If you didn't burp the system right, you'll keep having the systoms your having.

mp5

iTrader: (3)

Can coolant evaporate from a system because of a blocked radiator or a bad water pump? or even because a new themostat has gone bad?I,m wodering because
the radiator is very hot where the coolant enters from the engine,normal I assume, but cool to the touch on the opposite side . Not normal?

Actually a bad water pump would be good news! instead of the....anyone know a good engine builder!!

Bottom line is, its consuming a lot of coolant.The buzzer will come on start up for 30 seconds after I have been running for a 1/2 hour,so I,m assumig its eaten a little coolant,If the coolant seals are bad is there a good way to find out? before replacing other parts?
C.

S-MAN

The buzzer may be a different problem. I know that i was having trubles with mine. Bubles in the system can throw that off or the sensor is symply bad. Listen for girgaling when you first start your car up it may sound like it is pouring out also. Sorry can't help with the other problems.

S-MAN

O i forgaot about the seals. If you what to check them just prsurise the system. But do relize that in doing this your little leak may become a big leak

mp5

iTrader: (3)

Its probably the seals.Cannot keep coolant in it,and it started like crap tonight.
Not bad for a reman motor with 30k that I have beat the living crap out of in the last 2 years.
Now for the fun part, time to upgrade the motor and turbos.

RX-7racer88

Yeah sounds like it maybe your motor going out. I had that problem kind of hapen to me when my last motor blew.

E6KT2

Contrary to popular belief, coolant does not disappear. If you are loosing coolant, do a pressure test. More than likely you are burning it somewhere. Pressurizing the system without the car running will help you locate the problem. If it is something not visible I would try to isolate the engine (plug the lines going to the engine). If you still can't find it, I would assume that the engine is eating it.

mazdized

Stock twins and the manifold just cooks the O rings....