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Valvoline VR-1 or Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck oil

Old 10-21-10, 05:13 PM
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Valvoline VR-1 or Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck oil

Hey guys.

I'm getting ready for the track (instructor's group) near Savannah, GA, and I'm going to change the oil.

I hate spending A LOT of money for oil that I'll be using for just one weekend, so I try to use oils that are on sale.

I can get 4-quarts of Valvoline VR-1 20w50 Racing oil for $15, or 1 gallon of Mobil 1 5w-40 Turbo Diesel Truck oil for $19 at O'REILLYS.

Which would you use for a weekend track event ?

Thanks,
:-) neil

Car has stock turbos, 4x850cc injectors, PFC tuned by Steve Kan, removed OMP (pre-mix), and water injection, plus DP, resonated MP, cat-back, etc.
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Old 10-21-10, 05:23 PM
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BTW: O'REILLY also has a sale of Delvac 1300 15w-40 Diesel Truck oil for $7.99/gallon! Maybe I should just run that . . .
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Old 10-21-10, 06:13 PM
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How about shell rotella 15w-40??

They have the one gallon jugs at advance for like 11.99.
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Old 10-21-10, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 1QWIK7 View Post
How about shell rotella 15w-40??

They have the one gallon jugs at advance for like 11.99.
If I'm going to run a diesel HD oil, might us well be the cheaper $7.99 Delvac 1300.

So, VR-1 20w50 or Mobil 1 5w40 TDT ?

:-) neil
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Old 10-21-10, 06:37 PM
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I run the VR1 in mine
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Old 10-21-10, 06:53 PM
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I used Rotella for a number of years after they changed to street oil formulas. I also use the VR1 stuff more lately. I don't think you can go wrong either way.
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Old 10-21-10, 07:21 PM
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Sorry but this doesn't make any sense to me... you're trying to buy cheap oil for your engine that you're going to be beating on for a weekend? why not spend a little more and protect your engine? oh, and good oil will last longer than a weekend..
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Old 10-21-10, 08:02 PM
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get the full synthetic diesel oil. i think its the rotella t and i do believe they sell it at wal-mart. buddy runs it in his SR powered track car. great results and cheap!
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Old 10-21-10, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by smileyman345 View Post
get the full synthetic diesel oil. i think its the rotella t and i do believe they sell it at wal-mart. buddy runs it in his SR powered track car. great results and cheap!
Yep, I've been using rotella t 15w40 for the past year in my car...great oil.
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Old 10-21-10, 08:17 PM
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I use VR1 20w50 and change every other race weekend. Sprint races only.
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Old 10-21-10, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by bewtew View Post
Sorry but this doesn't make any sense to me... you're trying to buy cheap oil for your engine that you're going to be beating on for a weekend? why not spend a little more and protect your engine? oh, and good oil will last longer than a weekend..
No not "cheap" oil, but inexpensive oil.

Both oils I've chosen are VERY GOOD.

Rotella T Synthetic 5w40 I believe is in the same league as the Mobil 1 5w40 TDT I'm looking at on sale $19.99/gallon.
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Old 10-22-10, 07:15 AM
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I wouldn't concidder VR1 cheap oil. I use it, and if you need to run mineral, you should aswell.

Riz.
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Old 10-22-10, 08:00 AM
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Go w/ the synthetic which should result in lower temps, better turbo protection and higher oil pressure.

I currently have VR1 in my car because it was on sale and it's good stuff but why change every weekend you can easily go two weekends or say 4 or 5 hours of track use if you're keeping the oil temps below 240 (highest I see is 225). I also change the filter every other oil change.
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Old 10-22-10, 08:34 AM
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Question

Originally Posted by Fritz Flynn View Post
Go w/ the synthetic which should result in lower temps, better turbo protection and higher oil pressure.

I currently have VR1 in my car because it was on sale and it's good stuff but why change every weekend you can easily go two weekends or say 4 or 5 hours of track use if you're keeping the oil temps below 240 (highest I see is 225). I also change the filter every other oil change.
Thanks Fritz. My car usually gets double duty with a buddy instructor, and I also drive 2 hours to the track each way.

At the end, the oil looks very fuel-diluted IMHO . . .

I'll try the synthetic this time around . . . Although she pukes out about 1-pint every two 20-minute sessions!

:-) neil
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Old 10-22-10, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by M104-AMG View Post
Thanks Fritz. My car usually gets double duty with a buddy instructor, and I also drive 2 hours to the track each way.

At the end, the oil looks very fuel-diluted IMHO . . .

I'll try the synthetic this time around . . . Although she pukes out about 1-pint every two 20-minute sessions!

:-) neil
Run it about 3/4s to 1 quart low or 1/4 up the dip stick fill mark and you won't even use the catch can. One of the great things about the rotary is we don't have to worry about oil starvation so no need to fill it. Hell with good synthetic you could probably run two quarts low if you could keep the temps down lol
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Old 10-23-10, 08:23 AM
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Funny Fritz, I was told to run over full. I still race a 12a. A racer who won a national championship always ran a quart over full.
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Old 10-23-10, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by cpa7man View Post
Funny Fritz, I was told to run over full. I still race a 12a. A racer who won a national championship always ran a quart over full.
I'm not familiar with FBs so no comment
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Old 10-23-10, 01:04 PM
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I personally have also been running the VR1 for about a year or so now. No complaints about it ... but I too run a bit more than full in my 12a
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Old 10-24-10, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by dj55b View Post
I personally have also been running the VR1 for about a year or so now. No complaints about it ... but I too run a bit more than full in my 12a
OK I'll say it again but me and Neil (op) don't care about FB 12a engines
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Old 10-24-10, 08:18 AM
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I figured that after I posted. I still have the 3rd gen you sold me. It is a fine piece

Yes, boost changes everything for sure.

VR-1 is a fine oil, but I run synthetic. My air intake got clogged with grass in a recent race. I was chasing down the 3rd place car. The synthetic gave me a little more peace of mind with temps heading north to 240 range.
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Old 10-24-10, 08:50 AM
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That was a beauty

Glad you're still enjoying it.

It's as much the speed and cornering force as boost but no way will an FD benefit by over filling the oil without seriously modifying the filler neck and oil pan etc.....

Without some major mods to the oil system your best bet is to run it low and then you really don't even need a catch can. Run it at the top of the stick and you'll just be spraying it out of your BOV all over the engine bay, into your catch can, into your intercooler etc.... it's certainly not benefiting the engine if it's getting tossed out anyway. If you run 3/4s to quart low in an FD you'll see no ill effects if you have a good cooling system and I'll stand by that 100%.



Originally Posted by cpa7man View Post
I figured that after I posted. I still have the 3rd gen you sold me. It is a fine piece

Yes, boost changes everything for sure.

VR-1 is a fine oil, but I run synthetic. My air intake got clogged with grass in a recent race. I was chasing down the 3rd place car. The synthetic gave me a little more peace of mind with temps heading north to 240 range.
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Old 10-24-10, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Fritz Flynn View Post

Without some major mods to the oil system your best bet is to run it low and then you really don't even need a catch can. Run it at the top of the stick and you'll just be spraying it out of your BOV all over the engine bay, into your catch can, into your intercooler etc.... it's certainly not benefiting the engine if it's getting tossed out anyway. If you run 3/4s to quart low in an FD you'll see no ill effects if you have a good cooling system and I'll stand by that 100%.
After two events where my catch can overflowed, and subsequently sprayed oil on the alternator belt causing the car to die and making it then hard to start, I think I will try that advice.

With dual 19 row Mocal coolers and the extra quart of oil provided by a Pineapple Racing oil pan, I don't think I'll run out of oil.

Now please excuse me while I go clean my engine bay again.
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Old 10-24-10, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by jkstill View Post
After two events where my catch can overflowed, and subsequently sprayed oil on the alternator belt causing the car to die and making it then hard to start, I think I will try that advice.

With dual 19 row Mocal coolers and the extra quart of oil provided by a Pineapple Racing oil pan, I don't think I'll run out of oil.

Now please excuse me while I go clean my engine bay again.
You'll need to run two quarts low with that pan lol.

Seriously that pan causes twice the slosh problems, it could use some better baffling. I'm not a fan of it.
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Old 10-28-10, 02:00 PM
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I run a PP 1st gen SA chassis road racer that is wet sump. I have tried a LOT of different oils, including Mobil 1, Redline, Kendall, Chevron Delo 15w-40 diesel oil, Castrol, Castrol synthetic, and Joe Gibbs racing oil, and on and on.

I always keep going back to tried and true Valvoline VR-1 20w-50 weight. After many laps, the Valvoline VR-1 maintains better hot oil pressure and has less of a foaming problem than all those other brands I have tried over the years. Oil foaming occurs as the oil spashes around in the rotors, and becomes a problem when running sustained above 8000 rpm with a close ratio road racing transmission.

PS - I do believe in Mobil1 synthetic gear oils in all my vehciles , and I do use the Mobil 1 synthetic diesel oil in my Mercedes V-12 street car which specifies a 15w-40 oil.
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Old 10-28-10, 02:11 PM
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I'm running VR1 SAE 60 to resist the thinning effects of fuel dilution, and essentially all FDs have the problem. It seems to have held up well, I should have the results of the oil analysis shortly, which will be posted in the "UOA" thread in the third gen section. If you don't get your oil analyzed, you're guessing - there are far too many oil threads in this forum based strictly on random opinion. Even full synthetic Amsoil 20w-50 thinned out pretty bad on me after 2k miles....10w-40? forget it. For a strictly track only car where the oil is dumped after every track event, I'm sure 20w-50 is fine.

Last edited by no_more_rice; 10-28-10 at 02:18 PM.
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