Valvoline VR-1 or Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck oil
#1
Valvoline VR-1 or Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck oil
Hey guys.
I'm getting ready for the track (instructor's group) near Savannah, GA, and I'm going to change the oil.
I hate spending A LOT of money for oil that I'll be using for just one weekend, so I try to use oils that are on sale.
I can get 4-quarts of Valvoline VR-1 20w50 Racing oil for $15, or 1 gallon of Mobil 1 5w-40 Turbo Diesel Truck oil for $19 at O'REILLYS.
Which would you use for a weekend track event ?
Thanks,
:-) neil
Car has stock turbos, 4x850cc injectors, PFC tuned by Steve Kan, removed OMP (pre-mix), and water injection, plus DP, resonated MP, cat-back, etc.
I'm getting ready for the track (instructor's group) near Savannah, GA, and I'm going to change the oil.
I hate spending A LOT of money for oil that I'll be using for just one weekend, so I try to use oils that are on sale.
I can get 4-quarts of Valvoline VR-1 20w50 Racing oil for $15, or 1 gallon of Mobil 1 5w-40 Turbo Diesel Truck oil for $19 at O'REILLYS.
Which would you use for a weekend track event ?
Thanks,
:-) neil
Car has stock turbos, 4x850cc injectors, PFC tuned by Steve Kan, removed OMP (pre-mix), and water injection, plus DP, resonated MP, cat-back, etc.
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get the full synthetic diesel oil. i think its the rotella t and i do believe they sell it at wal-mart. buddy runs it in his SR powered track car. great results and cheap!
#13
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Go w/ the synthetic which should result in lower temps, better turbo protection and higher oil pressure.
I currently have VR1 in my car because it was on sale and it's good stuff but why change every weekend you can easily go two weekends or say 4 or 5 hours of track use if you're keeping the oil temps below 240 (highest I see is 225). I also change the filter every other oil change.
I currently have VR1 in my car because it was on sale and it's good stuff but why change every weekend you can easily go two weekends or say 4 or 5 hours of track use if you're keeping the oil temps below 240 (highest I see is 225). I also change the filter every other oil change.
#14
Go w/ the synthetic which should result in lower temps, better turbo protection and higher oil pressure.
I currently have VR1 in my car because it was on sale and it's good stuff but why change every weekend you can easily go two weekends or say 4 or 5 hours of track use if you're keeping the oil temps below 240 (highest I see is 225). I also change the filter every other oil change.
I currently have VR1 in my car because it was on sale and it's good stuff but why change every weekend you can easily go two weekends or say 4 or 5 hours of track use if you're keeping the oil temps below 240 (highest I see is 225). I also change the filter every other oil change.
At the end, the oil looks very fuel-diluted IMHO . . .
I'll try the synthetic this time around . . . Although she pukes out about 1-pint every two 20-minute sessions!
:-) neil
#15
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Thanks Fritz. My car usually gets double duty with a buddy instructor, and I also drive 2 hours to the track each way.
At the end, the oil looks very fuel-diluted IMHO . . .
I'll try the synthetic this time around . . . Although she pukes out about 1-pint every two 20-minute sessions!
:-) neil
At the end, the oil looks very fuel-diluted IMHO . . .
I'll try the synthetic this time around . . . Although she pukes out about 1-pint every two 20-minute sessions!
:-) neil
#20
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I figured that after I posted. I still have the 3rd gen you sold me. It is a fine piece
Yes, boost changes everything for sure.
VR-1 is a fine oil, but I run synthetic. My air intake got clogged with grass in a recent race. I was chasing down the 3rd place car. The synthetic gave me a little more peace of mind with temps heading north to 240 range.
Yes, boost changes everything for sure.
VR-1 is a fine oil, but I run synthetic. My air intake got clogged with grass in a recent race. I was chasing down the 3rd place car. The synthetic gave me a little more peace of mind with temps heading north to 240 range.
#21
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That was a beauty
Glad you're still enjoying it.
It's as much the speed and cornering force as boost but no way will an FD benefit by over filling the oil without seriously modifying the filler neck and oil pan etc.....
Without some major mods to the oil system your best bet is to run it low and then you really don't even need a catch can. Run it at the top of the stick and you'll just be spraying it out of your BOV all over the engine bay, into your catch can, into your intercooler etc.... it's certainly not benefiting the engine if it's getting tossed out anyway. If you run 3/4s to quart low in an FD you'll see no ill effects if you have a good cooling system and I'll stand by that 100%.
Glad you're still enjoying it.
It's as much the speed and cornering force as boost but no way will an FD benefit by over filling the oil without seriously modifying the filler neck and oil pan etc.....
Without some major mods to the oil system your best bet is to run it low and then you really don't even need a catch can. Run it at the top of the stick and you'll just be spraying it out of your BOV all over the engine bay, into your catch can, into your intercooler etc.... it's certainly not benefiting the engine if it's getting tossed out anyway. If you run 3/4s to quart low in an FD you'll see no ill effects if you have a good cooling system and I'll stand by that 100%.
I figured that after I posted. I still have the 3rd gen you sold me. It is a fine piece
Yes, boost changes everything for sure.
VR-1 is a fine oil, but I run synthetic. My air intake got clogged with grass in a recent race. I was chasing down the 3rd place car. The synthetic gave me a little more peace of mind with temps heading north to 240 range.
Yes, boost changes everything for sure.
VR-1 is a fine oil, but I run synthetic. My air intake got clogged with grass in a recent race. I was chasing down the 3rd place car. The synthetic gave me a little more peace of mind with temps heading north to 240 range.
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Without some major mods to the oil system your best bet is to run it low and then you really don't even need a catch can. Run it at the top of the stick and you'll just be spraying it out of your BOV all over the engine bay, into your catch can, into your intercooler etc.... it's certainly not benefiting the engine if it's getting tossed out anyway. If you run 3/4s to quart low in an FD you'll see no ill effects if you have a good cooling system and I'll stand by that 100%.
With dual 19 row Mocal coolers and the extra quart of oil provided by a Pineapple Racing oil pan, I don't think I'll run out of oil.
Now please excuse me while I go clean my engine bay again.
#23
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After two events where my catch can overflowed, and subsequently sprayed oil on the alternator belt causing the car to die and making it then hard to start, I think I will try that advice.
With dual 19 row Mocal coolers and the extra quart of oil provided by a Pineapple Racing oil pan, I don't think I'll run out of oil.
Now please excuse me while I go clean my engine bay again.
With dual 19 row Mocal coolers and the extra quart of oil provided by a Pineapple Racing oil pan, I don't think I'll run out of oil.
Now please excuse me while I go clean my engine bay again.
Seriously that pan causes twice the slosh problems, it could use some better baffling. I'm not a fan of it.
#24
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I run a PP 1st gen SA chassis road racer that is wet sump. I have tried a LOT of different oils, including Mobil 1, Redline, Kendall, Chevron Delo 15w-40 diesel oil, Castrol, Castrol synthetic, and Joe Gibbs racing oil, and on and on.
I always keep going back to tried and true Valvoline VR-1 20w-50 weight. After many laps, the Valvoline VR-1 maintains better hot oil pressure and has less of a foaming problem than all those other brands I have tried over the years. Oil foaming occurs as the oil spashes around in the rotors, and becomes a problem when running sustained above 8000 rpm with a close ratio road racing transmission.
PS - I do believe in Mobil1 synthetic gear oils in all my vehciles , and I do use the Mobil 1 synthetic diesel oil in my Mercedes V-12 street car which specifies a 15w-40 oil.
I always keep going back to tried and true Valvoline VR-1 20w-50 weight. After many laps, the Valvoline VR-1 maintains better hot oil pressure and has less of a foaming problem than all those other brands I have tried over the years. Oil foaming occurs as the oil spashes around in the rotors, and becomes a problem when running sustained above 8000 rpm with a close ratio road racing transmission.
PS - I do believe in Mobil1 synthetic gear oils in all my vehciles , and I do use the Mobil 1 synthetic diesel oil in my Mercedes V-12 street car which specifies a 15w-40 oil.
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I'm running VR1 SAE 60 to resist the thinning effects of fuel dilution, and essentially all FDs have the problem. It seems to have held up well, I should have the results of the oil analysis shortly, which will be posted in the "UOA" thread in the third gen section. If you don't get your oil analyzed, you're guessing - there are far too many oil threads in this forum based strictly on random opinion. Even full synthetic Amsoil 20w-50 thinned out pretty bad on me after 2k miles....10w-40? forget it. For a strictly track only car where the oil is dumped after every track event, I'm sure 20w-50 is fine.
Last edited by no_more_rice; 10-28-10 at 02:18 PM.