Upgraded power steering cooler, Fc3s
07-10-10, 01:58 PM
#1
Upgraded power steering cooler, Fc3s
This is very straight forward and not so much as a write up but to show how it easy it is to beef up the cooling for the power system for under $30. I'm not quite sure how demanding of the power steering different kinds of races are but it's pretty heavily used in drifting. This is all started because my rack was blown and upon further inspection the stock cooler (which is just a looped line) was kinked. I ordered a Jeg's transmission cooler
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60370...rentProductId=
which was just under $30 shipped.
First step, obviously prepare for a mess since PS fluid will come out of the lines once you remove them. I took mine all the way off due to having to change the rack out too but if you just want to replace to cooler it could be done with the original lines still on the car.
Choose where you want to mount the new cooler. I originally wanted to mount it vertically but the lines would come down kinda low off of the cooler and I don't want to risk getting them ripped out so I went with horizontal for the new cooler. Mock up your set up, make the proper bracketry and mount it up.
Next up, you're going to mark where you're going to cut your original PS cooler lines. Make sure you leave enough room to route hoses from each fitting of the new cooler to the lines without being too cramped or bent too much. You can bend the stock metal lines to angle a little better but for the hose this kit comes with you need a minimum of 3" to bend. I don't want any bends so I bent the stock lines up a little bit.
After you've marked them, measure hose lengths from the inlet and outlet of the new cooler to the stock lines. You can get fancy and flare the stock lines but it's not necessary. The cooler I used has only a barbed fitting so no AN fittings aren't an option unless you use a nicer cooler.
Finally, cut the stock metal lines, I used a bolt cutter because that's all I had. Afterwards the lines were crimped shut so I used a hammer to wack the crimped portion of the line open a little and used a flat head screwdriver to shape the opening of the line. It would have been a lot easier if I had a cutting wheel or tool but for the po' folks like me, it can be done without such luxuries.
Once the lines are open, slip a hose and a clamp onto the top port of the new cooler and to the top metal line. Be sure to use hose clamps on both sides. Do the same for the bottom. Now refill the fluid (use ATF not PS fluid) Keep the PS fluid cap off. You need to bleed the PS system by turning the steering wheel from lock to lock a few times with the car running. As you do this the pump circulates the fluid and the air is relased from the system. Check and add fluid as necessary and you're good to go. Not a bad way to spend $30.
Heres the general idea
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60370...rentProductId=
which was just under $30 shipped.
First step, obviously prepare for a mess since PS fluid will come out of the lines once you remove them. I took mine all the way off due to having to change the rack out too but if you just want to replace to cooler it could be done with the original lines still on the car.
Choose where you want to mount the new cooler. I originally wanted to mount it vertically but the lines would come down kinda low off of the cooler and I don't want to risk getting them ripped out so I went with horizontal for the new cooler. Mock up your set up, make the proper bracketry and mount it up.
Next up, you're going to mark where you're going to cut your original PS cooler lines. Make sure you leave enough room to route hoses from each fitting of the new cooler to the lines without being too cramped or bent too much. You can bend the stock metal lines to angle a little better but for the hose this kit comes with you need a minimum of 3" to bend. I don't want any bends so I bent the stock lines up a little bit.
After you've marked them, measure hose lengths from the inlet and outlet of the new cooler to the stock lines. You can get fancy and flare the stock lines but it's not necessary. The cooler I used has only a barbed fitting so no AN fittings aren't an option unless you use a nicer cooler.
Finally, cut the stock metal lines, I used a bolt cutter because that's all I had. Afterwards the lines were crimped shut so I used a hammer to wack the crimped portion of the line open a little and used a flat head screwdriver to shape the opening of the line. It would have been a lot easier if I had a cutting wheel or tool but for the po' folks like me, it can be done without such luxuries.
Once the lines are open, slip a hose and a clamp onto the top port of the new cooler and to the top metal line. Be sure to use hose clamps on both sides. Do the same for the bottom. Now refill the fluid (use ATF not PS fluid) Keep the PS fluid cap off. You need to bleed the PS system by turning the steering wheel from lock to lock a few times with the car running. As you do this the pump circulates the fluid and the air is relased from the system. Check and add fluid as necessary and you're good to go. Not a bad way to spend $30.
Heres the general idea
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
LunchboxCritter
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
15
01-03-16 04:11 PM
