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Time Attack car

Old Nov 26, 2007 | 07:36 PM
  #1  
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Time Attack car

So Im going to take my FD off the street and make it a track car. My question is based more towards suspension mods. I currently have Stance coilovers cusco front and rear strut bars. I know I have a bit to do on suspension still but what should i look into getting and any recomendations. I know I need toe links, sway bars, and bushings. Im going to pull my steering rack out and send it to marvle. Taking my gt35r off going with a large street port and putting on some BNR stage 3. Im looking at getting slotted rotors and buying an aftermarket brake ducting system with some hawk racing pads. Aftermarket dual oil cooler. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. thanks

Chris
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 07:49 PM
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depending on how serious you want to get, you might want to ditch the japanese brand coilovers for something that has usable damping adjustment. The stance stuff is good for something in that price range but its well outside of the more serious setups from JRZ, penske, or moton
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by twomucboost4u
So Im going to take my FD off the street and make it a track car. My question is based more towards suspension mods. I currently have Stance coilovers cusco front and rear strut bars. I know I have a bit to do on suspension still but what should i look into getting and any recomendations. I know I need toe links, sway bars, and bushings. Im going to pull my steering rack out and send it to marvle. Taking my gt35r off going with a large street port and putting on some BNR stage 3. Im looking at getting slotted rotors and buying an aftermarket brake ducting system with some hawk racing pads. Aftermarket dual oil cooler. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. thanks

Chris
I would have thought if you wanted a time attack car you would stay with the GT35R, the BNR stage 3 would make your system more complicated and less powerful.

If you are doing time attack I don't think brake ducting would be such an issue because you are going out for a hot lap and not doing 20 laps at a time.

The most important thing that you didn't talk about is tires. A good tire on an appropriately sized rim is super important.
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 07:53 PM
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IM going to run in the modified class, was going to try and run the street class but I have carbon doors so I cant run that class. Figured id make my way into the modified class and depending on how good it goes then get really serious about it.

Chris
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 07:55 PM
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I want to try and fit 17X10 all around with some nitto's.

Chris
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 08:58 PM
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call CCW
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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 09:36 PM
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Don't forget safety. A seat and harness really are a necessity in a way. You'll be amazed how much more feedback you get through a good seat. Seriously consider a cage. If not a cage, at least a roll-bar.

In terms of tires, it seems as though anything short of Hoosier A6's is going to make it difficult to be as competitive as possible.
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Old Nov 27, 2007 | 02:17 AM
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I have to use a DOT approved tire cant be a full slick. Also is it recomended to keep or get rid of the ABS? It will be getting a cage and seat.

Chris
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Old Nov 27, 2007 | 07:49 AM
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The Hoosier R6 and A6 are DOT approved, IIRC.

-bill
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Old Nov 27, 2007 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by twomucboost4u
I have to use a DOT approved tire cant be a full slick. Also is it recomended to keep or get rid of the ABS? It will be getting a cage and seat.

Chris
If you're focusing on lap times, then I would run ABS.
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 01:20 AM
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Originally Posted by twomucboost4u
IM going to run in the modified class, was going to try and run the street class but I have carbon doors so I cant run that class. Figured id make my way into the modified class and depending on how good it goes then get really serious about it.

Chris
Sounds like you're planning to run in the Redline Time Attack series. If that's the case you need two things do to the virtual non existance of class rules:

1) As much power as possible
2) As much tire as possible

Stay with the GT35R for track use.
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Old Nov 29, 2007 | 01:47 AM
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think I found my rim set up Volk GT-U 18x10 +40 in front and 18x11+25 in the rear. Im going to be running a feed rear fender flare. Do you think the gt35r will be better? I just got done tearing it all down today motor is out, all interior has been pulled, heres my list so far of things to get:

Bushings
Front rear sway bars
trailing arms and toe links
upgraded motor mounts
Diff. brace
neo fluids
Slotted rotors
brake ducts
Hawk pads
6pt cage
dual oil coolers

Im hoping I can put down some competative numbers but thats high hopes I know. Thanks for any input you guys give.

Chris
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 05:39 PM
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I run the GT35R in my Track FC. It works quite well. If you are falling out of boost you are shifting too early. On really long corners you need to step into the throttle, build some boost and back out to keep the rear in line. You can hold boost through the corner and then roll in as the course straightens. The other track car we have is an FD and it is running the Apexi RX6 kit. Both cars are tuned pretty even right now and response is similar, with the GT35R making the same power at lower boost levels and the RX6 comming on a little earlier. On the track they are very close.
We both are running the Toyo RA-1's.
The FC runs a 235 40 17 up front on an 8" rim and a 275 40 17 in back on a 9" rim
The FD runs a 255 40 17 up front on a 9" rim and a 275 40 17 in back on a 10" rim
Both cars were running at the end of the season and both had some suspension wear issues to contend with, so they weren't handling perfect. The FD had a broken rear sway bar mount and the FC had a blown strut, so they are a little off.

Here's the FD:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNIlc...eature=related

Here's my FC:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0KJ1mxgA-Q
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 06:12 PM
  #14  
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thanks for the videos what kinds of suspencison upgrades are you running on the FD?

Chris
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Old Dec 3, 2007 | 12:17 PM
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The FD has coil overs and adjustable dampers (Re Amemiya, I think). It also has a larger sway bar kit. (I'm not sure who manufactured it). The car also has a complete cage and is totally stripped.

-Trent
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