Time Attack car
So Im going to take my FD off the street and make it a track car. My question is based more towards suspension mods. I currently have Stance coilovers cusco front and rear strut bars. I know I have a bit to do on suspension still but what should i look into getting and any recomendations. I know I need toe links, sway bars, and bushings. Im going to pull my steering rack out and send it to marvle. Taking my gt35r off going with a large street port and putting on some BNR stage 3. Im looking at getting slotted rotors and buying an aftermarket brake ducting system with some hawk racing pads. Aftermarket dual oil cooler. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. thanks
Chris |
depending on how serious you want to get, you might want to ditch the japanese brand coilovers for something that has usable damping adjustment. The stance stuff is good for something in that price range but its well outside of the more serious setups from JRZ, penske, or moton
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Originally Posted by twomucboost4u
(Post 7553454)
So Im going to take my FD off the street and make it a track car. My question is based more towards suspension mods. I currently have Stance coilovers cusco front and rear strut bars. I know I have a bit to do on suspension still but what should i look into getting and any recomendations. I know I need toe links, sway bars, and bushings. Im going to pull my steering rack out and send it to marvle. Taking my gt35r off going with a large street port and putting on some BNR stage 3. Im looking at getting slotted rotors and buying an aftermarket brake ducting system with some hawk racing pads. Aftermarket dual oil cooler. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. thanks
Chris If you are doing time attack I don't think brake ducting would be such an issue because you are going out for a hot lap and not doing 20 laps at a time. The most important thing that you didn't talk about is tires. A good tire on an appropriately sized rim is super important. |
IM going to run in the modified class, was going to try and run the street class but I have carbon doors so I cant run that class. Figured id make my way into the modified class and depending on how good it goes then get really serious about it.
Chris |
I want to try and fit 17X10 all around with some nitto's.
Chris |
call CCW
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Don't forget safety. A seat and harness really are a necessity in a way. You'll be amazed how much more feedback you get through a good seat. Seriously consider a cage. If not a cage, at least a roll-bar.
In terms of tires, it seems as though anything short of Hoosier A6's is going to make it difficult to be as competitive as possible. |
I have to use a DOT approved tire cant be a full slick. Also is it recomended to keep or get rid of the ABS? It will be getting a cage and seat.
Chris |
The Hoosier R6 and A6 are DOT approved, IIRC.
-bill |
Originally Posted by twomucboost4u
(Post 7554903)
I have to use a DOT approved tire cant be a full slick. Also is it recomended to keep or get rid of the ABS? It will be getting a cage and seat.
Chris |
Originally Posted by twomucboost4u
(Post 7553527)
IM going to run in the modified class, was going to try and run the street class but I have carbon doors so I cant run that class. Figured id make my way into the modified class and depending on how good it goes then get really serious about it.
Chris 1) As much power as possible 2) As much tire as possible Stay with the GT35R for track use. |
think I found my rim set up Volk GT-U 18x10 +40 in front and 18x11+25 in the rear. Im going to be running a feed rear fender flare. Do you think the gt35r will be better? I just got done tearing it all down today motor is out, all interior has been pulled, heres my list so far of things to get:
Bushings Front rear sway bars trailing arms and toe links upgraded motor mounts Diff. brace neo fluids Slotted rotors brake ducts Hawk pads 6pt cage dual oil coolers Im hoping I can put down some competative numbers but thats high hopes I know. Thanks for any input you guys give. Chris |
I run the GT35R in my Track FC. It works quite well. If you are falling out of boost you are shifting too early. On really long corners you need to step into the throttle, build some boost and back out to keep the rear in line. You can hold boost through the corner and then roll in as the course straightens. The other track car we have is an FD and it is running the Apexi RX6 kit. Both cars are tuned pretty even right now and response is similar, with the GT35R making the same power at lower boost levels and the RX6 comming on a little earlier. On the track they are very close.
We both are running the Toyo RA-1's. The FC runs a 235 40 17 up front on an 8" rim and a 275 40 17 in back on a 9" rim The FD runs a 255 40 17 up front on a 9" rim and a 275 40 17 in back on a 10" rim Both cars were running at the end of the season and both had some suspension wear issues to contend with, so they weren't handling perfect. The FD had a broken rear sway bar mount and the FC had a blown strut, so they are a little off. Here's the FD: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SNIlc...eature=related Here's my FC: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0KJ1mxgA-Q |
thanks for the videos what kinds of suspencison upgrades are you running on the FD?
Chris |
The FD has coil overs and adjustable dampers (Re Amemiya, I think). It also has a larger sway bar kit. (I'm not sure who manufactured it). The car also has a complete cage and is totally stripped.
-Trent |
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