I'm thinking full spare corners and QD brake lines are easier
Marcus

 

So, if you guys could only afford either a: the G-force panhard setup, or B: the G-force Tri-link.... which would you buy?

Dan

 

Can you have one without the other? I don't think you can have the tri-link without the panhard, because won't the rearend just flop around? And the panhard doesn't do very much good without the 3-link installed and the watts and upper links removed/neutralized.

Of course, I could be totally wrong.

 

Well, that sucks.... why the hell would he sell them separate then?!!?!! LOL...

Dan

 

christaylor is correct. You still need a way to locate the axle side to side. The tri-link locates the axle from rotating along it's centerline.

Some just use a panhard. Before the tri-link came out people would remove the watts, and run a panhard. The suspension still has binding issues with that setup though. The next step is to remove the upper links and replace them with the tri-link - Or make very soft bushings for the arms if you class makes you leave them in.

-billy

 

Dick, SDJ sells a adjustable Watts linkage. ; ) Why couldn't it be track adjustable ?

Bos, did you buy from KC Racing. Some of us know exactly who & what you bought. ; )

billy, you SHALL not remove the upper rear links. You MAY add or substitude only. ; )

EDIT: IMHJ G-Force has a nice third link. Even tho I was required to butcher the crap out of the forward bracket so the it would fit the tunnel irregularites.

Have Fun ; )
David

 

What I was talking about was adjustments to the Watts linkage durning a 13/16 second pit stop in NASCAR. Would require both sides adjusted and in different directions. One turn up and one turn down???? DICK


[QUOTE=ddewhurst]Dick, SDJ sells a adjustable Watts linkage. ; ) Why couldn't it be track adjustable ?

 

& if we move the center pivot only during the 13/16 second stop ? We change the roll center & impact the axle side movement somewhat.