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One of the weakest points of the 13B engine is the dowel points on the irons and housings. These solid engine dowels are direct replacements for the 4 hollow ones that are used to align the motor when assembling.
$99 and Free Shipping!
Installing these dowels helps cut down on engine vibrations, twisting, and overall increases block rigidity.
A cost effective strengthening mod for anyone looking to make power over stock!
Also if you do have a cracked dowel, and need to complete the season (not necessarily recommended) this may also be an option because it will stop the oil leak at the dowel landing.
Purchasing these gets you a full set of (TWO) Dowels which is all that is required for a full engine assembly.
To be able to use these solid dowels you must do the "external oil mod" which many argue helps the oiling system by rerouting around the hard curves and sharp surfaces of the irons.
This procedure can be explained by this- you will be tapping the brass plug(s) (which are plugs for the oiling system) on the driver side outside of the front iron. Both of these plugs go into the oiling system, and some will choose to tap both and Y them together or simply use one. From there you will run a line -10AN or larger preferably up to your aftermarket oil filter pedestal.
Here are some pictures of the mod for example.
Please pm me with any questions if you are interested, and you can go HERE to purchase or send me a pm.
Last edited by stukellymotorsports; 02-26-16 at 04:59 PM.
when the solid dowel blocks off the oil path, does it also stop the oil from coming out the vertical oil port on the front plate which most people use to feed the turbo ? area marked with red X
when the solid dowel blocks off the oil path, does it also stop the oil from coming out the vertical oil port on the front plate which most people use to feed the turbo ? area marked with red X
no, it will still flow up to that top port.
but i don't know about this as a remedy for cracked irons, i've seen plenty of irons cracked that would still **** oil even with that galley plugged.
but i don't know about this as a remedy for cracked irons, i've seen plenty of irons cracked that would still **** oil even with that galley plugged.
That is incorrect. The oil flows down the center of the dowel to get from the rear of the engine up to the front.
Here is a oil flow diagram that applies to all 12A and 13B engines. The only differences is the individual components on the engine (covers, turbos, manifolds, etc) and the FD oil inlet from the cooler is up at the top of the rear iron instead of at the bottom. Solid dowels on the upper galleries require a loop line. It's well documented in other threads. If you look at the oil flow arrows, you can see it. THe loop line will still allow oil to make it to the turbo through the standard location.
The oil will no longer flow to that top part as other have said. It will only flow up to your loop line port wherever you drilled and tap that. Common places for turbo oil can be the oem oil pressure port, and use an oil pressure guage at the pedestal for the oil filter. Or at the oil filter pedestal. You could also place a Y in your loop line.
One of the weakest points of the 13B engine is the dowel points on the irons and housings. These solid engine dowels are direct replacements for the 4 hollow ones that are used to align the motor when assembling.
$99 and Free Shipping!
Please pm me with any questions if you are interested, and you can go HERE to purchase or send me a pm.
Instead of drilling and tapping the brass section can you use the location you marked with an X? For instance when using a turbo front iron in a non turbo application?
Instead of drilling and tapping the brass section can you use the location you marked with an X? For instance when using a turbo front iron in a non turbo application?
I do not believe that would be a good idea. I have not measured, but if the pictures mean anything, it looks like that turbo feed port is smaller than the lower brass plug that would get drilled and tapped. The other point of doing the loop line aside from the dowels is to have fewer turns and restrictions getting to the front stat bearing. The loop line in theory also provides cooler oil that is not heated up as much on its journey through that upper dowel passage.
The smaller passage, combined with the tight turns and such seems like a bad idea to me. I believe you can still use the passage to feed a turbo if you have on, but I know on your ice racer that you are NA.
I'm not a professional rebuilder, so take my input with a grain of salt, but based on the Mazda pictures alone(which seem rather accurate) I would not use the turbo feed port.
I also would like to hear about this idea as well, so that I'm not just blowing smoke.
02-26-16, 04:55 PM
