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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 03:51 PM
  #651  
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ok... may not be a great question.

I want a relatively simple cage... something that is an all around type setup. nothing extravagent. Sounds like I need to do more research on the diff. cage requirements for the diff. types of racing.

I am building a strip/track/autoX/D1 car... sounds stupid but I want the car to be able to do whatever I want it to do any suggestions will help. Thanks guys! awesome thread!
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 05:31 PM
  #652  
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Assuming your car is not a vert or that it is gonna have an ET that requires a cage. Focus on the drifting cage rules. If your car will meet the ET requirement for a cage, try to design one that meets both requirements. Might be difficult to do. Just my .02
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 05:41 PM
  #653  
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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 05:52 PM
  #654  
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^nice. Im wndering if anyone has pictures of a caged vert. Full interior still, top still has to work like normal. Thinking about amking a new thread
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Old Oct 8, 2009 | 04:13 PM
  #655  
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Originally Posted by almost heaven
Didn't see any Autopower bolt-in cages like I'm planning to put in my FB. Anyone have any thoughts on that as far fitment problems or hints, and safety? Intended use is road racing. Thanks.
Autopower bolt in cages are the bare minimum allowed. Yea its cheap, but is your life cheap ? Dont do it, save up and have a good cage done. Not only will you have real peace of mind but if done well, will add to your cars performance. Just my opinion
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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 02:11 PM
  #656  
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Here is how cheapy bolt-in roll cages can end up:
Notice in the last couple of photos, as the car is upside down, that the bolt in cage punched right thru the thin floor it was bolted to, and the roof collapsed

http://racersweb.com/forums/ford/153...-only-one.html

It takes time & experience to build a cage right, so that you don't end up like this
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Old Nov 11, 2009 | 04:05 PM
  #657  
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im loving all the cages. plus i think anyone that does X bars inthe doors should run gussets!
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Old Dec 3, 2009 | 01:58 AM
  #658  
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This is my cage that Afgmoto1978 and I have put together for myself.
Just need to finish the bars that will go through the firewall to the front strut towers and the cage its self will be complete.
Attached Thumbnails Show Pics of your cages please!-rollcagefnt.jpg   Show Pics of your cages please!-rollcageside.jpg   Show Pics of your cages please!-rollcagerear.jpg  
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 07:32 PM
  #659  
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These are nice!
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Old Jan 28, 2010 | 11:20 AM
  #660  
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Some more pictures of Dan's cage, front shock towers now have 6.5 & 8 degrees of caster adjustment in addition to the stock 4 degrees.
Attached Thumbnails Show Pics of your cages please!-dsc07987.jpg   Show Pics of your cages please!-dsc07990.jpg   Show Pics of your cages please!-racecarcage1.jpg   Show Pics of your cages please!-racecarcage3.jpg  
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Old Feb 16, 2010 | 11:57 PM
  #661  
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Couple of cage questions.

Bad idea to use 1.75 120 wall for the main hoop and 2 front bars to the a-pillars and use 1.75 95 wall for the rest of the cage? My bender only bends 1.75..

Also, why do some cage builders build a 1 peice halo for under the roof and weld in a-pillar bars to that halo, and most build bars that go right from the base of the a-pillar to the main hoop and conect them across the front of the windshield? Wouldn't the latter be better for rollover protection?
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 12:01 PM
  #662  
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I love this thread.
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Old Apr 21, 2010 | 04:01 AM
  #663  
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Originally Posted by Speed Raycer
www.izzyscustomcages.com

Like you russ, I'm always interested in seeing how other builders do things. No matter how long you've been doing it, you can always learn something new.

Any pics russ?
very true well said! never knock the new kid on the block because everyone has something new to offer
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Old May 3, 2010 | 06:38 AM
  #664  
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Hi Guys,

I picked up a bolt in cage for my FC which I thought was going to be cold drawn steel.

When I picked it up from the seller (who had no idea about it and had bought it used himself) I was very surprised at how light it was!!

So, first thoughts from me was that it was chrome moly, but when I got it home and took all the padding off and looked at the welds, I thought maybe it is aluminum.

Anyway, how can I tell if this cage is chrome moly or aluminum??

I did the magnet test and the magnet does NOT stick to it.

Here are a few pics of the cage and welds...









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Old May 3, 2010 | 06:42 AM
  #665  
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That would be aluminum.
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 05:35 PM
  #666  
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And I wouldn't trust anyone's life with it.
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Old Jul 11, 2010 | 04:42 AM
  #667  
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Here's mine








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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 11:39 AM
  #668  
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Any recommendations on a good fabricator in the San Fernando Valley (SoCal) to do a cage?
Preferably someone who is familiar with Mazdas.
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 11:57 AM
  #669  
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Originally Posted by jets3t8
Any recommendations on a good fabricator in the San Fernando Valley (SoCal) to do a cage?
Preferably someone who is familiar with Mazdas.
Also, someone who knows SCCA, NHRA, etc. rollcage rulebook details...
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 04:56 PM
  #670  
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A couple of pics from the cage i have made for my SC drag car






bare in mind some pics are older then others so some dont show all the bars in there currently.

Still got a bit to go but its getting there

First cage ive done to
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 06:33 AM
  #671  
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Originally Posted by wvumtnbkr
Couple of Questions:

1) Anybody know how much space is required between the cage and the driver's helmet?

2) Also, several times it has been asked whether a bolt in cage is safe or not. Well, what is the answer?

3) Let me ask another way: What would make a bolt in cage less safe than a weld in cage. Furthermore, what about a bolt together cage?

4) I have an autopower bolt in cage with a "nascar style" door bar that was added on the driver's side. It is also bolt in. All of the pieces are bolted together using "sleeves" and then bolts running through both pieces of tubing. Is this a safe way to hold the cage together?

5) Are there any bars I can add that would be beneficial? (Like a big "X" bar going towards the rear of the car)

Thanks!

Rob
1. IHRA says maximum 6"

2. weld in cages are far better.

3. theirs two types of bolt in cages i've seen ones that are welded at the joints then cut compressed and drilled so slide into the next bar, just an unnecessary weak point. the other uses tabs welded at the joints that match to a bushing end. these offer zero rigidity and often have less weld contact then welded cages. bolt in cages tend to be bolted to the floor. not to a frame rail which IHRA suggests. Bolt together cages are not permitted.

4. all bolt together cages are like that. See above

5. the more material you add the more weight you add. one diagonal bar is requires for lateral force. more cages use a rear cross brace in addition to the straight rear bars. this is a minimum required 6 point roll cage.
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 07:12 AM
  #672  
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bolt in cages have got to be the biggest face palm ever
this is why

notice the cage poking through the floor.
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 10:35 AM
  #673  
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Let's get silly...
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Our NASA spec 8pt cage...
Attached Thumbnails Show Pics of your cages please!-2010-04-10-21.26.49.jpg   Show Pics of your cages please!-2010-04-10-21.27.18.jpg   Show Pics of your cages please!-dsc04891.jpg   Show Pics of your cages please!-dsc04893.jpg   Show Pics of your cages please!-dsc04935.jpg  

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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 03:09 AM
  #674  
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Hi guys!

Very nice roll cages out there! I'm currently building up my fc3s TII...

I just wanted to ask if you know companies which sell a weld-in kit for my fc3s! I don't have a tube-notcher or tube-bender, so a pre-cuted/bended kit, ready to weld in, would be GREAT

i've used google but didn't came up with something useful
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 09:40 AM
  #675  
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Theres a lot to consider in building/buying a cage. You should probably start a seperate thread that will get you more input.
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