Show Pics of your cages please!
#651
getting fired up again
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ok... may not be a great question.
I want a relatively simple cage... something that is an all around type setup. nothing extravagent. Sounds like I need to do more research on the diff. cage requirements for the diff. types of racing.
I am building a strip/track/autoX/D1 car... sounds stupid but I want the car to be able to do whatever I want it to do any suggestions will help. Thanks guys! awesome thread!
I want a relatively simple cage... something that is an all around type setup. nothing extravagent. Sounds like I need to do more research on the diff. cage requirements for the diff. types of racing.
I am building a strip/track/autoX/D1 car... sounds stupid but I want the car to be able to do whatever I want it to do any suggestions will help. Thanks guys! awesome thread!
#652
Assuming your car is not a vert or that it is gonna have an ET that requires a cage. Focus on the drifting cage rules. If your car will meet the ET requirement for a cage, try to design one that meets both requirements. Might be difficult to do. Just my .02
#655
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Autopower bolt in cages are the bare minimum allowed. Yea its cheap, but is your life cheap ? Dont do it, save up and have a good cage done. Not only will you have real peace of mind but if done well, will add to your cars performance. Just my opinion
#656
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Here is how cheapy bolt-in roll cages can end up:
Notice in the last couple of photos, as the car is upside down, that the bolt in cage punched right thru the thin floor it was bolted to, and the roof collapsed
http://racersweb.com/forums/ford/153...-only-one.html
It takes time & experience to build a cage right, so that you don't end up like this
Notice in the last couple of photos, as the car is upside down, that the bolt in cage punched right thru the thin floor it was bolted to, and the roof collapsed
http://racersweb.com/forums/ford/153...-only-one.html
It takes time & experience to build a cage right, so that you don't end up like this
#658
EngineBuilder
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This is my cage that Afgmoto1978 and I have put together for myself.
Just need to finish the bars that will go through the firewall to the front strut towers and the cage its self will be complete.
Just need to finish the bars that will go through the firewall to the front strut towers and the cage its self will be complete.
#661
FC Racer
Couple of cage questions.
Bad idea to use 1.75 120 wall for the main hoop and 2 front bars to the a-pillars and use 1.75 95 wall for the rest of the cage? My bender only bends 1.75..
Also, why do some cage builders build a 1 peice halo for under the roof and weld in a-pillar bars to that halo, and most build bars that go right from the base of the a-pillar to the main hoop and conect them across the front of the windshield? Wouldn't the latter be better for rollover protection?
Bad idea to use 1.75 120 wall for the main hoop and 2 front bars to the a-pillars and use 1.75 95 wall for the rest of the cage? My bender only bends 1.75..
Also, why do some cage builders build a 1 peice halo for under the roof and weld in a-pillar bars to that halo, and most build bars that go right from the base of the a-pillar to the main hoop and conect them across the front of the windshield? Wouldn't the latter be better for rollover protection?
#663
www.izzyscustomcages.com
Like you russ, I'm always interested in seeing how other builders do things. No matter how long you've been doing it, you can always learn something new.
Any pics russ?
Like you russ, I'm always interested in seeing how other builders do things. No matter how long you've been doing it, you can always learn something new.
Any pics russ?
#664
Hi Guys,
I picked up a bolt in cage for my FC which I thought was going to be cold drawn steel.
When I picked it up from the seller (who had no idea about it and had bought it used himself) I was very surprised at how light it was!!
So, first thoughts from me was that it was chrome moly, but when I got it home and took all the padding off and looked at the welds, I thought maybe it is aluminum.
Anyway, how can I tell if this cage is chrome moly or aluminum??
I did the magnet test and the magnet does NOT stick to it.
Here are a few pics of the cage and welds...
I picked up a bolt in cage for my FC which I thought was going to be cold drawn steel.
When I picked it up from the seller (who had no idea about it and had bought it used himself) I was very surprised at how light it was!!
So, first thoughts from me was that it was chrome moly, but when I got it home and took all the padding off and looked at the welds, I thought maybe it is aluminum.
Anyway, how can I tell if this cage is chrome moly or aluminum??
I did the magnet test and the magnet does NOT stick to it.
Here are a few pics of the cage and welds...
#669
#670
A couple of pics from the cage i have made for my SC drag car
bare in mind some pics are older then others so some dont show all the bars in there currently.
Still got a bit to go but its getting there
First cage ive done to
bare in mind some pics are older then others so some dont show all the bars in there currently.
Still got a bit to go but its getting there
First cage ive done to
#671
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Couple of Questions:
1) Anybody know how much space is required between the cage and the driver's helmet?
2) Also, several times it has been asked whether a bolt in cage is safe or not. Well, what is the answer?
3) Let me ask another way: What would make a bolt in cage less safe than a weld in cage. Furthermore, what about a bolt together cage?
4) I have an autopower bolt in cage with a "nascar style" door bar that was added on the driver's side. It is also bolt in. All of the pieces are bolted together using "sleeves" and then bolts running through both pieces of tubing. Is this a safe way to hold the cage together?
5) Are there any bars I can add that would be beneficial? (Like a big "X" bar going towards the rear of the car)
Thanks!
Rob
1) Anybody know how much space is required between the cage and the driver's helmet?
2) Also, several times it has been asked whether a bolt in cage is safe or not. Well, what is the answer?
3) Let me ask another way: What would make a bolt in cage less safe than a weld in cage. Furthermore, what about a bolt together cage?
4) I have an autopower bolt in cage with a "nascar style" door bar that was added on the driver's side. It is also bolt in. All of the pieces are bolted together using "sleeves" and then bolts running through both pieces of tubing. Is this a safe way to hold the cage together?
5) Are there any bars I can add that would be beneficial? (Like a big "X" bar going towards the rear of the car)
Thanks!
Rob
2. weld in cages are far better.
3. theirs two types of bolt in cages i've seen ones that are welded at the joints then cut compressed and drilled so slide into the next bar, just an unnecessary weak point. the other uses tabs welded at the joints that match to a bushing end. these offer zero rigidity and often have less weld contact then welded cages. bolt in cages tend to be bolted to the floor. not to a frame rail which IHRA suggests. Bolt together cages are not permitted.
4. all bolt together cages are like that. See above
5. the more material you add the more weight you add. one diagonal bar is requires for lateral force. more cages use a rear cross brace in addition to the straight rear bars. this is a minimum required 6 point roll cage.
#674
Senior Member
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Hi guys!
Very nice roll cages out there! I'm currently building up my fc3s TII...
I just wanted to ask if you know companies which sell a weld-in kit for my fc3s! I don't have a tube-notcher or tube-bender, so a pre-cuted/bended kit, ready to weld in, would be GREAT
i've used google but didn't came up with something useful
Very nice roll cages out there! I'm currently building up my fc3s TII...
I just wanted to ask if you know companies which sell a weld-in kit for my fc3s! I don't have a tube-notcher or tube-bender, so a pre-cuted/bended kit, ready to weld in, would be GREAT
i've used google but didn't came up with something useful