Prof. Chaos

iTrader: (1)

It took me a while to edit my video, but here's footage from my second race of the season in my SCCA E Production FC RX-7. This SCCA National race was at Willow Springs in Rosamoond, Calif., on Feb. 23, 2013. I qualified second (behind the orange FC), and finished second, but I did have the lead for a few laps:

E Production race at Willow Springs 2013 - YouTube

If you're wondering what I'm doing to the shift ****, I bought a fancy aluminum shift **** before the race weekend, and discovered the vibration caused it to loosen up. It loosened up so much during qualifying that it fell off. I LocTite'd it before the race, but it was still coming loose. Saturday night I poured LocTite on the threads and it stayed stuck for Sunday's race.

If you're a drifter and find road racing videos boring, there's a little something special for you at the 6:30. I was doing about 100mph at that point.

23Racer

Great video. I had the same issues with my aluminum shifter **** as well. It has to do with the temps in the shifter handle and the disparate metals used. I ended up using red Loctite, the kind that never comes apart and it stays with no problem, but I still periodically give the handle a twist just to make sure.

Eric

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

Nice vid, great save and that beast is over steering big time mid corner.

23Racer

Thats why he needs a good rear wing (LOL).... sorry E-Prod guys don't get one.

Seriously though, could you be topping out or (less possibly) bottoming out the rear shocks? I noticed that the snap oversteer would take place when you would require the inside rear shock to extend a bit. It could also be the rebound settings are too firm. You were really catching the car in a number of places each lap and thanks to your Senna like mad skillz you were able to catch it each time, but man it has to be tiring to drive that way for a long time.

Eric

Prof. Chaos

iTrader: (1)

I think/hope the culprit is too little camber on the left rear. The car currently has about -1.8° in the left rear and in all the pics of the car from the race you can see the rear tire folding over. The right rear has -2.8° and the car turns fine in that direction. I tried to order the individual camber adjusters from Mazdatrix but they were out of stock. I'm hoping to have those in time for the race in April.

Prof. Chaos

iTrader: (1)

Here's what I mean about the rear camber:

cone_crushr

iTrader: (18)

FYI, AWR is the source for the rear suspension bits. Only visit their site if you've got a money to burn. Make sure you discuss your camber adjustment plans with them since you may need more parts than you expect. Excellent vids BTW. At this pace, you'll soon own E-prod.

griffithracing

Great Vid... I'm building an RX7 EP and watching this keep me going and I hope to race it next month at Summit Point.

23Racer

Hey, if you want a rear camber device for reasonable money, I built a rear subframe forward strut for my car out of 2 rod ends and a piece of threaded hexagonal aluminum tube. Whole thing was done for under $50 and it works great to dial in rear camber. The only issue is that effects both sides at the same time so you need to still find a way to balance the cambers.

Eric

Prof. Chaos

iTrader: (1)

I have a center camber rod, and it gets me just about enough camber on the passenger side (although I am contemplating getting a longer rod end so I can bend the subframe a tad more). My plan is to buy one individual camber adjuster for the driver's side to even things out.