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S5 Harness De-Pin

Old 03-14-19, 10:57 AM
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djessence

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S5 Harness De-Pin

Good Afternoon,

I did post in 2nd gen, but no feedback there on the pins required. After combing through a variety of emissions removal and de-pinning and engine swap threads I have a few questions I am a bit unsure of. The car is:
  • a 1985 RX7 first gen with an S5 NA 13B being put in (track car)
  • No emissions
  • No dash stuff (it's all aftermarket)
  1. Is the water pump temp sensor used by the ECU for anything, or is this just a warning light or emissions related?
  2. What is pressure sensor (Connector B-33/Pin 2H) used for? Have my answer - it is used for ECU/Mapping stuff and will create a fitting to accommodate the sensor
  3. Can someone confirm or contradict with emissions removed looks like I can remove (pictures say it more clearly but my text summary below)
    • B1-16 (3J) Solenoid Valve Accelerated Warm Up System
    • B1-17 (3I) Split Air Solenoid
    • B1-18 (3Q) Bypass Air Control Solenoid
    • B1-19 (3M) Pressure Regulator Control Solenoid
    • B1-20 (3A) Solenoid Valve (6port injection system)
    • B1-23 (2N) Solenoid Valve (Port Air)
    • B1-24 (2M) Solenoid Valve VDEIC
    • B1-25 (2O) Solenoid Valve Switch
    • B1-27 (2P) Solenoid Valve Relief
    • B1-28 (1P) Heat Hazard Sensor
    • Picture Legend - green keep, red delete, yellow optional and ? I am asking.
Hope this makes sense. I could only find snippets of this in the 1st gen forum but I imagine a bunch of 2nd gen folks have cleaned up their harnesses. I know the proper race solution is an aftermarket ECU and custom wiring harness - we have a budget so this is baby steps.

Thanks in advance.

Jesse



Old 03-15-19, 09:24 AM
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you need to keep the water pump temp sensor, it is used a lot.

you also need the circuit opening relay, its kind of an odd translation, but the circuit it opens is the fuel pump. so it turns the fuel pump on and off.

if you're running all the valves in the intake, you also will want to keep the VDI and 6 PI wires.

all of the others should go to resistors, this will keep the check engine light off, so you can use it to diagnose actual problems
Old 03-18-19, 10:30 AM
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djessence

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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
you need to keep the water pump temp sensor, it is used a lot.

you also need the circuit opening relay, its kind of an odd translation, but the circuit it opens is the fuel pump. so it turns the fuel pump on and off.

if you're running all the valves in the intake, you also will want to keep the VDI and 6 PI wires.

all of the others should go to resistors, this will keep the check engine light off, so you can use it to diagnose actual problems
Awesome, thanks! Is there a good resource of what value of resistor to use for the variety of circuits that you are aware of?
Old 03-18-19, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by djessence
Awesome, thanks! Is there a good resource of what value of resistor to use for the variety of circuits that you are aware of?
shop manual!
Old 08-21-19, 11:54 AM
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Follow up to this - I'm down to the last few wires on the X-11 plug. I have the EM side but not the F side of the harness (it was totally mangled).

Black/Yellow (x2) - I think this is just 12V power from the EGI fuse in the fuse box?
Black (x2) - Guessing this is ground - looks like it ties into a circlet for grounding with a black/white wire (or is this alternator)
Brown/White (x2) - Not needed: only on auto transmission so think it is not needed. From page 76 looks like it also goes to the EC-AT control unit
Black/Green (x2) - Not needed: Does this go to Cruise Control Unit and EC-AT Control unit? Page 18 and 76 of the wiring diagram. I could see this as signal from the car saying yes we are running - Can someone confirm?
Green/red - not needed: only on auto transmission so shouldnt be needed? Looks like it also goes to EC-AT Control unit (page 76)

Picture attached. Can someone confirm my logics?





Any help you guys can offer is greatly appreciated - this is the final stretch on the rebuild/transplant.

Jesse

Last edited by djessence; 08-21-19 at 12:09 PM.
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