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Questions on a reliable track/street set up

Old 06-02-06, 09:40 AM
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Questions on a reliable track/street set up

Posted this in the 3rd gen forum, not sure which is right?

Hi Guys
I posted a couple weeks ago in regards to setting up a FD for track use. I have a very low mileage FD 15k miles. I made a few changes to the car before my first
track day this year. Before I had a WRX that was close to bullet proof.
Funny thing with all the changes I still had a problem and it was a $20 part that caused it. I lost boost coming out of a turn and did not notice it for a couple laps.
When I pulled into the pits I notice a small oil spray. Turned out to be the Vacuum
check line came undone. Fixed it but still no boost on the second turbo. Clogged
check gauge Afternoon done! Drove the car home but still had a couple good hours at the track. My question to you is what steps should I take next to make the car reliable?? Here is the current set up.

-AST elimination
-HKS downpipe
-HKS mid pipe
-Racing Beat cat back
-Greddy intake kit
-Walbro 255lph hp fuel pump
-NGK Spark plugs
-Magnacor 10mm plug wires
-Diff and tranny fluids changes to Redline MT-90
-Rad flush & fill
-ARC SMIC with piping
-Koyo Rad soon to come!
-OMP steering wheel
-Greddy Boost and Oil Temp gauge
-Vacuum line replaced
-Slave cylinder rebuild
-Stainless steel Clutch lines
-Apexi Power FC (Tuned to 13PSI) 290whp Soon to detuned to 11 PSI
-Volk CE28N'S 17X8.5 w/Advan AO32'S

What should I do next to preserve the engine. New injectors? Pulleys?
I know with the power upgrades I am going to need a new clutch. I am stuck on what else to do??
John
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Old 06-02-06, 01:32 PM
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Make sure you get some race grade brake pads and brake fluid and you should be all set.

Just keep an eye on engine temps and have fun.
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Old 06-02-06, 01:34 PM
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thanks for the imput, pads and fluid only huh? that would be great do you think there is a need for larger injectors.
John
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Old 06-02-06, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Fubawu
What should I do next to preserve the engine.
Don't race it.
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Old 06-02-06, 08:43 PM
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^^^ Have to what else am I going to do???
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Old 06-03-06, 02:17 PM
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For injectors, check your duty cycles at WOT under boost. I'd want to see no more than 85%.

I see an oil temp guage, but no water temp. Get a GOOD water temp guage. If you don't have the R1 oil cooler, think about getting one or an aftermarket setup, and make sure they and your radiator are ducted well.

Do a viton or silicon vacuum hose upgrade and tie wrap them all.

Do a search for installing a jaz 1 pint oil catch can/breather to replace the PCV.
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Old 06-04-06, 07:47 AM
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I would like to see that Koyo radiator installed, if you have not purchased it yet, I highly recommend the "N" model or triple pass. I was at Lime Rock earlier this year, temps did not get over 85C on my PFC.
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Old 06-04-06, 08:52 AM
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He started this thread before:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/setting-up-fd-track-539396/

So he's looking for more/different information.....
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Old 06-04-06, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Mahjik
He started this thread before:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=539396

So he's looking for more/different information.....
Sorry... should have read through his post more carefully. I'm afraid to tell you the stock 3rd gen turbo system is always going to be prone to problems when you push the car HARD at the track. I solved this problem by going single turbo and so far the car has been dead reliable...
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Old 06-04-06, 08:05 PM
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Ya it might be the next option, but pricey!!
John
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Old 06-05-06, 11:14 PM
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10 lb. boost, 5lb. bag
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I've heard of something nasty that can happen with the SS clutch line... if your main engine ground fails, you can get grounding through the SS clutch line. It gets hot, melts the hose that's inside, now there is hydraulic fluid in your engine bay and a fire if it gets on the exhaust.
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Old 06-06-06, 02:03 PM
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^^^ that sounds like a lot of ifs. Has anyone else heard of this??
John
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Old 06-06-06, 02:18 PM
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The needle on the BS meter is starting to twitch a little here.

1) There are several ground points to the engine block (the ignition harness for one).

2) If a stainless steel line starts "heating up", it would need a massive amount of current through it. That sort of current just doesn't exist around the engine block.

3) It would take a lot of heat to "melt" the inner hose of your hydraulic clutch line (it's pretty much the same construction as a brake line, IIRC). I think that your clutch fluid would boil first.

That's not to say that you shouldn't check your engine grounds occasionally, but I just don't see it as being a potential problem.

-bill

Last edited by wrankin; 06-06-06 at 02:20 PM.
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Old 06-06-06, 10:51 PM
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10 lb. boost, 5lb. bag
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It's not likely, no, but I seem to remember it happening to someone on the board a while ago. I can't find it though.
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