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Oil for racing?

Old 01-10-07, 10:47 AM
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Oil for racing?

What weight would be optimal? (for a 13b N/A)
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Old 01-10-07, 11:16 AM
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i use 15-50 mobile one with the OMP removed. Cheaper than the race type oils and every bit as good if nto better in my opinion, but oil has as many opinions as there are about Iraq......
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Old 01-10-07, 12:03 PM
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What sort of racing? On a road course where you will see longer periods of high rev use, go with one of the good quality ##w50 multiweights (synthetic or dino, your choice). Make sure you warm up the car well before getting on the track. Change oil frequently.

-b
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Old 01-10-07, 12:10 PM
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i guess i just assume road racing, synthetic all the way
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Old 01-10-07, 12:11 PM
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i premix and use 20w-50 synthetic
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Old 01-10-07, 02:58 PM
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i use 2 cycle oil to premix....its ment to burn. Synthetics supposedly dont burn and carbon up a rotor...or so ive heard, never seen on exereinced first hand.
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Old 01-10-07, 03:59 PM
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i use mobil-1 15/50, change the oil and filter after every weekend.
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Old 01-10-07, 05:49 PM
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A four-rotor team I know uses Valvoline Synpower 20-50 and won their class at the 24 hours of daytona with it, so I know that works..
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Old 01-12-07, 08:39 AM
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I have tried a half dozen different oils in the last decade, and now I stick to Valvoline VR-1 oil in the 20w-50 weight for my road racing 13B peripheral port motor. The Mobil1 is good stuff, but the Valvoline seemed to maintain 5 psi higher oil pressure after sustained operation above 8000 rpm - I don't mean shift at 8000 rpm, I mean don't let it drop below 8000 rpm in road races. I think the Valvoline has better anti-foaming additives. Foam (little air bubbles entrapped in the oil) is a problem with wet sump rotaries staying above 8000 rpm.
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Old 01-12-07, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by speedturn
I have tried a half dozen different oils in the last decade, and now I stick to Valvoline VR-1 oil in the 20w-50 weight for my road racing 13B peripheral port motor. The Mobil1 is good stuff, but the Valvoline seemed to maintain 5 psi higher oil pressure after sustained operation above 8000 rpm - I don't mean shift at 8000 rpm, I mean don't let it drop below 8000 rpm in road races. I think the Valvoline has better anti-foaming additives. Foam (little air bubbles entrapped in the oil) is a problem with wet sump rotaries staying above 8000 rpm.
Dam, that is some serious ****! Most of us shift at 8400 or so. I knew I liked VR-1 for a reason. I've run the Amsoil 20/50 racing and like it as well. I would love to drive a PP. If you check back here I'd be curious to know when the **** light goes off?
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Old 01-13-07, 01:43 PM
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20W-50 Idemitsu Synthetic has been working fine for me. No need to disable the OMP either.
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Old 01-13-07, 02:18 PM
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I normally shift about 9000 - sometimes I will run 5th gear out to 9300 if I am geared a little too low for the track I am at. With an naturally aspirated road race rotary, max performance is obtained with a very close ratio transmission that does not let the revs drop very much when shifted.
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Old 01-13-07, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by speedturn
I normally shift about 9000 - sometimes I will run 5th gear out to 9300 if I am geared a little too low for the track I am at. With an naturally aspirated road race rotary, max performance is obtained with a very close ratio transmission that does not let the revs drop very much when shifted.
Very nice. I'll bet those are pretty conservative shift points as well.

You said it about the tranny - I sure need a close ratio transmission. A friend build me a semi close ratio using 626 gears, but I'm in need of a comp box for sure.
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