wlfpkrcn

1- If 2 other people have the same budget and a better plan, than statistic say their cars will be completed and sorted before yours

2- They guys at Mazdatrix do a good job, If you have popped multiple engines, maybe it has to do with your fuel management or other problem beyond their control.

3- I understand you are upset. Racing costs money. Sometimes you get to respend your money. It's not fair, it is very frusturating. Unfortunately that is the way it is.

4- If you only have 2 auto-x days under your belt, you shouldn't worry about lap times. You need to work on yourself.

5- I agree with the fact illegal street racing does nothing to improve your driving skills

6- I stand behind my statement that you need to start reading chassis and suspension books before making anymore changes. Before making changes, you need to understand why your are making the change, and what you are sacrificing by making it.

DamonB

The car being in a higher class and the car being competitive in that class is two different things.

As someone who has ran his FD in SS for years in events with very healthy SS car counts I can tell you that in 7 years I have not EVER run against another FD in any Divisional or National event. They're all gone. Why? Because there's no doubt that an Elise, C5 Z06, C6 Z06 or GT3 are faster than the FD on most nearly any imaginable course.

He's right. The only ones being run competitively are in highly modified classes.

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

single turbo + autocross = ALOT more work compared to sequential twins.

The most important aspects in autocrossing:
Good Driver (Practice... take EVERY fun run you can)
smooth powerband (or driver compensated)
Tires (Can make a 5-10 second difference in your time from cruddy street tires)
Good Driver (Practice. Walk the course, visualize the transitions)
Suspension needs to be set up for quick transitions
Good Driver (Practice. Every second in the seat is gold, but every second in the passenger seat is silver. Ride-alongs can help you find the right lines.)

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

And honestly, these are the reasons why our club has a novice class. You race there for your first 10-12 events. THEN you move into a class. You should not be worried about winning in 2 events. not even coming close. go to every even for a year, and dont even look at your times or anyone elses. just practice being smooth and being one with the car. You are overdriving the car and your abilities at the moment. just because the car is fast, does not mean the driver is.

Plus, single turbo = a completely different animal.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Rynberg, that was excellent and concise. Exactly what I was looking for.

Thanks guys, everyone on this last page gave really good reply's to ...except for the part about me comparing with 60sec times. I allready explained the Ferrari and Z06 weren't in my class. I just used that as a goal and an example because of how impressed I was with them. The RX8 guy was 15sec faster in my car because I couldn't stay on course and was doing 360's. Now on my second attempt if you compare class times with Hikaru being best at 70sec and me being last at 78, I don't think that's to bad since I stayed on course and went down 20sec on my second event.

Car has been retuned.
Battery will be changed to Odyssey in order to use NHRA approved box.
Springs will be changed at a later time (not priority but on list now).
Rear tires will be changed at a later time (not priority but on list now).
Enrolled in NASA. Can't do driving school untill I do medical though.
Have helmet and book on order.
Have gauges on order (need tri-pod).
Need to get oil pan fixed.

Thanks again for those that gave positive and helpfull replies and web links instead of just critizing and judging negatively. Changing my driving is also part of changing my setup. Bashing me helps no one, not me and certainly not those that do a search later.

DamonB

That was a good job; it shows improvement. FWIW every single novice I've ever seen drops tens of seconds their first time as well. The folly you and everyone else are making is thinking that the other 8 seconds is due to anything other than you as a driver.

8 seconds is an absolutely enormous amount of time for any class on any length of course. You'd be hard pressed to find an 8 second gap between AM and HS at most competitive events.

What's slowing you down right now is your ego. When your ego steps out of the way you'll realize you can do all you want with the car and you won't make up the time because you don't know how to yet. That's not being critical or judging you negatively, that's experience telling you how every other beginner starts out. The ones who get fast and produce results quickly are the ones that concentrate on the nut behind the wheel. YOU are the limiting factor right now. There's nothing wrong with that; it's to be expected. Invest your time and effort into what will produce results: YOU.

SPICcnmGT

I agree, but as he stated the guy said it was in a higher class.

I also agree with this, a stock or almost stock FD is no where near the performer of the cars you mentioned such as a GT3 or a Z06. Even the older Z06. But the FD is still a very good all around car compared to most, it is just 14yrs old.

wlfpkrcn

You shouldn't need a medical for the HPDE. Only if you are applying for a comp license IIRC. If you read the rules the comp mandates the Physical, HPDE does not. Might save you time and get you on track sooner

From the GCR


3.5 Eligibility Requirements – Step Two
Any person wishing to enter a NASA sanctioned HPDE must meet the following
requirements:
• Be at least 18 years old (16 or over with parental consent**).
• Hold a current valid state driver’s license.**
• Have use of an automobile that meets NASA’s technical requirements.
• Hold a NASA, or a NASA sanctioned car club, current membership.
• Have proper safety equipment, as per the CCR.
• Fully pay all applicable fees.
• Have no outstanding debts with NASA or NASA’s affiliates.
• Have knowledge of all of rules found in the Club Codes and Regulations, and fully
agree to abide by them.
• All drivers must be deemed physically fit by their physician to participate in a high
stress and physically demanding sport such as auto racing.
• Sign all required waivers, and in particular the “gate waiver” before entering the
facility.
• Entrant must get their car teched before going to registration.

Here is the Comp requirements

13.1.1 NASA licensing program:
1. Four days on track with an Instructor; the last two (2) days in a race car.
2. Pass a written test and a technical compliance demonstration.
3. Approval of the Licensing Instructor and the Event Chairman.
4. A NASA Inspector must certify the race car.
5. Driver’s Attire must meet the NASA minimum standards for racing [Ref15.17)]
6. Submit a copy of their driver’s license.
7. Submit a copy of their Physical Examination form.
8. Submit the appropriate fee.
Note: The first weekend of licensing school may be waived with the approval of the
Event Chairman for drivers with prior track experience.

RaceDriver7

iTrader: (9)

I always tell people that by far the best "mod" you can make is to become a better driver. And the best thing about it is that it's free!

Buy a book such as "Going Faster" by the Skip Barber Racing School. It will probably be the cheapest "mod" you ever make and will give you the highest performance gain

Larz

At my first event ever I was almost ten seconds behind the leader in my class of ASP. Granted I was on all weather tires. I think it's bad tires and lack of seat time.

Chadwick

iTrader: (12)

The driver..... no really. Get some seat time and leave the car alone. After a few months ask one of the local hot shoes to drive your car. If he beats you by more than 2 seconds, work on the driver some more..... rinse.... repeat.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

Well thanks for all the replies. I have two books on order, helmet,etc. Received gauges today but pods are backordered. I have an oil leak that I can't find and can't get anyone to fix. My compression is 6.7 on a newly rebuilt motor with 5k miles on it. My last motor lasted 1k miles and the one before that 25k miles. I've had the car for 7 years now and have probably driven it for 7 months total.