Getting into AutoX with the 1st gen
#1
The Rotorheaded Geek
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Getting into AutoX with the 1st gen
Alright, I am getting into this to have a good time. I do not know how to class the car or if there is anything I should change. In the past I kept wanting to do this but never had the money to. Here is the scoop, nothing left out:
-Stock port 12A
-Sterling Built 465cfm Carb (303cfm stock)
-RE Race header (2") collected into 2.5" straight pipes
-All emissions equipment has been removed because it isn't required in NH
-The car has lost about 300 pounds so far
-LSD rear with disc breaks
-Aftermarket springs, shocks
-Trimmed wiring harnesses (kept shorting out and causing trouble so they had to be remade for safety
-She will be sitting on 15x8 steel race wheels, DOT tires on them
-the front strut bar is a triangulated setup
-the a/c system has been completely removed (cardboard piece connects blower and heater box)
-the battery has been relocated to behind the passenger's seat.
-any and all insulating material has been removed from the car
-the tranny is out of an 84 (don't think that matters at all) and is solid mounted
-engine mounts are going to be replaced with hockey pucks
Other then that she is pretty much stock, though she does on occasion shoot about 5 feet of flame out the back.
Your help is much apriciated, and hope to see some of you at the events. To be noted is that my plate on the RX-7 is OTAKURX and the RX-8 (if the 7 isn't ready) is P1R4T3, keep an eye out for me.
Mike
-Stock port 12A
-Sterling Built 465cfm Carb (303cfm stock)
-RE Race header (2") collected into 2.5" straight pipes
-All emissions equipment has been removed because it isn't required in NH
-The car has lost about 300 pounds so far
-LSD rear with disc breaks
-Aftermarket springs, shocks
-Trimmed wiring harnesses (kept shorting out and causing trouble so they had to be remade for safety
-She will be sitting on 15x8 steel race wheels, DOT tires on them
-the front strut bar is a triangulated setup
-the a/c system has been completely removed (cardboard piece connects blower and heater box)
-the battery has been relocated to behind the passenger's seat.
-any and all insulating material has been removed from the car
-the tranny is out of an 84 (don't think that matters at all) and is solid mounted
-engine mounts are going to be replaced with hockey pucks
Other then that she is pretty much stock, though she does on occasion shoot about 5 feet of flame out the back.
Your help is much apriciated, and hope to see some of you at the events. To be noted is that my plate on the RX-7 is OTAKURX and the RX-8 (if the 7 isn't ready) is P1R4T3, keep an eye out for me.
Mike
#3
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So do you know what organization you want to run with? if you are going to join scca, your car could run CSP with some minor changes, it will also depend on the weight reduction you are talking about. If you just want to go play, talk to who ever runs local events and see if they just have a fun run group.
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I could be wrong, but the heater "modification" and I think the removal of the insulation would bump you into the prepared class (EP I think). The rules are on the scca.com webpage, lots of reading .
#6
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The removed sound insulation isn't legal in CSP, either. BUT - If you are new, most regions will allow you to run in CSP. I have only heard of nitpicking at divisional or national events, and whoever has the concern will usually come talk to you directly about it, first. Most people at the autocross are there to have fun. Your first several times will not be fast enough for your "Extra" mods to affect your performance, and unless you totally kick butt, there will be no issues. Still, be honest.
If you have any interest, make sure your battery is tied down, brakes are ok, and bearings are good, then go have a blast. It doesn't matter what you bring to the event, you'll have fun. Don't be self-conscious - ask for help if you have uestions. I've found autocross and road racing folks to be among the nicest I've ever met.
Good luck!
If you have any interest, make sure your battery is tied down, brakes are ok, and bearings are good, then go have a blast. It doesn't matter what you bring to the event, you'll have fun. Don't be self-conscious - ask for help if you have uestions. I've found autocross and road racing folks to be among the nicest I've ever met.
Good luck!
#7
The Rotorheaded Geek
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I am going to be doing SCCA events, I know I won't be fast enough for the car's setup to make a huge deal. I have looked over the rules, but wasn't sure on how to class the car, at first I was hoping no worse then SM2 (was hoping to stay away from prepared, but some stuff had to be done to the car for safety). I don't want to cheat (no fun in it) so I want to make sure I am classed right even tho I am a newb. It should also be noted I have (only on a twisty road) been able to run down BMW's, Miata's and some other cars, and I can keep a decent pass with vettes. My dad used to race GT1 so I had to learn a bit to keep up with him. But I understand that a twisty road is quite different then a course of cones.
Now the battery is tied down, and behind the passenger bin, does it need to be in a sealed box?
Any pointers for someone new?
Now the battery is tied down, and behind the passenger bin, does it need to be in a sealed box?
Any pointers for someone new?
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#8
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Just have fun man! Your car sounds a lot like my setup (see sig). A racing beat front sway bar is a cheap mod, and will make a hell of a difference in the handling of the car.
Youtube appears to be down right now, but run a search for videos posted by Kentetsu1 and you'll find a couple of my vids if you want to check them out. Good luck!
Youtube appears to be down right now, but run a search for videos posted by Kentetsu1 and you'll find a couple of my vids if you want to check them out. Good luck!
#9
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Your car is in F Prepared. As soon as you remove the insulating material you bump yourself out of Street Prepared and Street Mod. You can also run in X Prepared and E Modified. There is a loophole where you could run in E Prepared but you have to prep the car totally to SCCA Road Racing class rules.
For pointers just go out to a lot of events. Make sure you look 2 turns ahead, be smooth and have fun.
For pointers just go out to a lot of events. Make sure you look 2 turns ahead, be smooth and have fun.
#10
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Originally Posted by OtakuRX
I am going to be doing SCCA events, I know I won't be fast enough for the car's setup to make a huge deal. I have looked over the rules, but wasn't sure on how to class the car, at first I was hoping no worse then SM2 (was hoping to stay away from prepared, but some stuff had to be done to the car for safety). I don't want to cheat (no fun in it) so I want to make sure I am classed right even tho I am a newb. It should also be noted I have (only on a twisty road) been able to run down BMW's, Miata's and some other cars, and I can keep a decent pass with vettes. My dad used to race GT1 so I had to learn a bit to keep up with him. But I understand that a twisty road is quite different then a course of cones.
Now the battery is tied down, and behind the passenger bin, does it need to be in a sealed box?
Any pointers for someone new?
Now the battery is tied down, and behind the passenger bin, does it need to be in a sealed box?
Any pointers for someone new?
#11
The Rotorheaded Geek
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Ya, tires will be the next big thing. First I gotta get all the stuff she got over the winter on her. As far as how the car is setup, it just seemed proper. I mean I stripped it down to a rolling chassis and built the car from there and just didn't put back things that didn't seem needed, and when the dash was switched I ran into a lot of electrical so that prompted that going over. I never really thought of the car as being that done up tho. Thanks for the help, soon as it gets warm enough out I am going to get her together. Not sure what I will do about the battery now. I may make a fiber glass enclosure or something.
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