Just bought an FB 13B PP racecar
02-10-05, 03:27 PM
#26
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
The regulator should be before the carb... doesn't do much having it on the return since it doesn't very often pump gas through the return. Speaking of which, I have it plugged on several cars, just because it doesn't do a whole lot of good (and shadetree-idiot-mechanics like to plumb the return line into the vent of the fuel cell).
EDIT: Damn that's a funky rear suspension setup. The geometry on that makes my head hurt.
EDIT: Damn that's a funky rear suspension setup. The geometry on that makes my head hurt.
02-12-05, 07:32 PM
#29
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The Weber IDA carb likes about 4.5 psig fuel pressure; you can run as high as 5.5 psig at idle; it doesn't like to get below 3 psig when running wide open. Do not use a pump for a fuel injection car. I do use the Holley blue pump with a Holley regulator and a good filter - no problem after 11 years of racing.
Use the NGK -115 spark plugs, they were made just for a road racing rotary. For idling around the pits or paddock or moving the car around your shop, use hot street spark plugs like the NGK BR8EQ-14 or B7ET hot plugs. The -115 plugs are meant for wide open road racing; they are so cold they will foul out if all you do is idle around with them.
Use the NGK -115 spark plugs, they were made just for a road racing rotary. For idling around the pits or paddock or moving the car around your shop, use hot street spark plugs like the NGK BR8EQ-14 or B7ET hot plugs. The -115 plugs are meant for wide open road racing; they are so cold they will foul out if all you do is idle around with them.
02-13-05, 03:25 AM
#30
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Thread Starter
Thanks Speed, we are currently looking for another pump for Lil´ Yellow 
Two options.
*Holly Blue witg regulator like yours
*Carter.
They both seem like a good choice.
Ohh and thanks about the sparkplug advise, The car came with alot of extra plugs, among them the -115
Two options.
*Holly Blue witg regulator like yours
*Carter.
They both seem like a good choice.
Ohh and thanks about the sparkplug advise, The car came with alot of extra plugs, among them the -115
02-13-05, 08:00 AM
#31
Watts
That is not a pan hard setup. A panhard setup by definition would only have two mounting points. One on the chassis and one on the rear end. The link would be as long as you can fit within two good mounting points. A Watts on the other hand will have 2 chassis mounts with one on the rear end housing - Like stock.
That is a modified version of a watts linkage. what they atempted to do was to drop the roll center. FWI, the rear roll center would be at the pivot point of the mounting on the rear end housing. That setup still has an offset mounting point that gives you one shorter arm that the other side. This is still not the best setup. To remove all the nasty of a watts you want both arms the same lenght with the pivot on the center of the diff housing. A panhard will give a lower rear roll center than this setup.
Here is a pic of a watts with the correct center mounting - allthough the pivot points make the roll center above axle centerline.
http://www.tsmmfg.com/WATTSREDUCED.jpg
More info on panhard = http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panhard_rod
More info on watts = http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watts_linkage
-billy
That is a modified version of a watts linkage. what they atempted to do was to drop the roll center. FWI, the rear roll center would be at the pivot point of the mounting on the rear end housing. That setup still has an offset mounting point that gives you one shorter arm that the other side. This is still not the best setup. To remove all the nasty of a watts you want both arms the same lenght with the pivot on the center of the diff housing. A panhard will give a lower rear roll center than this setup.
Here is a pic of a watts with the correct center mounting - allthough the pivot points make the roll center above axle centerline.
http://www.tsmmfg.com/WATTSREDUCED.jpg
More info on panhard = http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panhard_rod
More info on watts = http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watts_linkage
-billy
02-24-05, 12:56 PM
#32
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Thread Starter
Update.
Pulled the motor out the other day, front chamber has no compression, rear chamber has 4bar(56psi) which ive been told was good for a PPort motor.
From whats to be seen through the ports the apex seals are intact and not stuck. Im suspecting that it might be a corner or sideseal thats stuck from sitting for some years.
OC94Rx7 and I will take the motor apart this weekend.
Pulled the motor out the other day, front chamber has no compression, rear chamber has 4bar(56psi) which ive been told was good for a PPort motor.
From whats to be seen through the ports the apex seals are intact and not stuck. Im suspecting that it might be a corner or sideseal thats stuck from sitting for some years.
OC94Rx7 and I will take the motor apart this weekend.
05-08-05, 06:07 PM
#33
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Thread Starter
05-24-05, 05:07 PM
#34
OBEY YOUR MAZDA
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by elron90sc5speed
It's a racecar. Keep the wing.
Is it ugly? Yes. Is it functional? You betcha.
If you were just gonna autocross it I'd say ditch it.
But you plan on racing on a track where downforce will play a role.
At least drive it a few times with the wing on before you ditch it so you have somthing to compare with. You have nothing to lose. If you dont like the way it handles at speed then change to the imsa style wing.
racecar=function over form
Just what I'd do if'in it were mine.
And I wish it was.
Is it ugly? Yes. Is it functional? You betcha.
If you were just gonna autocross it I'd say ditch it.
But you plan on racing on a track where downforce will play a role.
At least drive it a few times with the wing on before you ditch it so you have somthing to compare with. You have nothing to lose. If you dont like the way it handles at speed then change to the imsa style wing.
racecar=function over form
Just what I'd do if'in it were mine.
And I wish it was.
Thanks to OC94Rx7 for the great job.
http://www.wankelkim.net/rx7/fb/wing.jpg
http://www.wankelkim.net/rx7/fb/wing1.jpg
05-27-05, 04:03 AM
#35
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Originally Posted by TrentO
I'd strongly suggest beefing up the driver's side roll cage anti-intrusion bars if you plan to race it wheel to wheel. Here's a picture of my driver's side door bars for comparison:
The rear susupension looks like a stock setup with the bottom mounts relocated down and converted to a coil over setup. It looks like the watts linkage is still there, but it has been modified with hiem joints (rod ends). Drive it. If you like the way it handles don't change it. If you don't like how it handles, a panhard bar could be a viable option.
-Trent
The rear susupension looks like a stock setup with the bottom mounts relocated down and converted to a coil over setup. It looks like the watts linkage is still there, but it has been modified with hiem joints (rod ends). Drive it. If you like the way it handles don't change it. If you don't like how it handles, a panhard bar could be a viable option.
-Trent
No-one in Australia runs anything near that extensive. Are aussies just stupid? Are we missing something? Or are you guys just big scared girls blouses?
They must weigh a ton too!
05-27-05, 04:05 AM
#36
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Originally Posted by Kim
M-kay wing issue solved.
Thanks to OC94Rx7 for the great job.
http://www.wankelkim.net/rx7/fb/wing.jpg
http://www.wankelkim.net/rx7/fb/wing1.jpg
Thanks to OC94Rx7 for the great job.
http://www.wankelkim.net/rx7/fb/wing.jpg
http://www.wankelkim.net/rx7/fb/wing1.jpg
05-27-05, 01:37 PM
#37
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Cool car, but that roll cage wouldn't pass tech anywhere in the US. The main roll hoop needs a diagonal and a horizontal bar for the harness. Also needs better driver's side door bars. I'd do some cage upgrades to be safe.
The unequal length Watts linkage on the rear end may end up inducing some funny handling. I'd expect different behaviour turning left vs turning right.
The dry sump is cool. You don't see a lot of that in the US until you get into formula or GT cars.
I hope you don't bake while waiting in pre-grid! Black is going to be super hot while standing still.
The old fuel pressure regulator with the return line looked fine to me. As you've found it still floods with the new pump and regulator. Bypass or return type regulators go in the return line to the tank. They restrict the return line to build pressure in the supply line. If there is blockage or restriction in the return line you get too much fuel pressure.
Good luck with the racing! If you've never done this before set aside about 3x as much time as you think you'll need for everything. I also found that checklists help a lot especially if you're up late working on the car. It's just so easy to forget important things when you've been up all night!
The unequal length Watts linkage on the rear end may end up inducing some funny handling. I'd expect different behaviour turning left vs turning right.
The dry sump is cool. You don't see a lot of that in the US until you get into formula or GT cars.
I hope you don't bake while waiting in pre-grid! Black is going to be super hot while standing still.
The old fuel pressure regulator with the return line looked fine to me. As you've found it still floods with the new pump and regulator. Bypass or return type regulators go in the return line to the tank. They restrict the return line to build pressure in the supply line. If there is blockage or restriction in the return line you get too much fuel pressure.
Good luck with the racing! If you've never done this before set aside about 3x as much time as you think you'll need for everything. I also found that checklists help a lot especially if you're up late working on the car. It's just so easy to forget important things when you've been up all night!
05-27-05, 03:58 PM
#38
Rotary Freak
Quote from Lukus -"Trent, why is it that you guys go so overkill on intrusion bars? I just don't understand it! Are you scared of something? Sure, racing wheel to wheel is fairly dangerous, but you guys must drive at each other to need bars like that!
No-one in Australia runs anything near that extensive. Are aussies just stupid? Are we missing something? Or are you guys just big scared girls blouses?"
I can't speak for Trent, I have just as much if not more side protection in mine. Is it overkill, maybe. It weighs a ton, however my car is still underweight for its class here in Canada and I would rather put the extra 50 lbs into safety and chassis stiffening than a lead plate under the car.
I prefer more side intrusion as in the last few years I have seen 1 person killed and one seriously injured in exactly the same way. Both were driving smaller (240 SX Nissan, 2000 lbs and CRX 1850 lbs) Gt race cars. Both had cages that met the letter of the law, 2 side intrusion bars of the proper gauge and tube size. Both had their side intrusion bars either bent back through the driver or ripped out of the uprights. In the case of the 240 SX it was hit in the drivers door at approx 170 kmh by a VR6 Scirroco over the crest of a blind hill after it spun out. The driver succumbed to his injuries in less than 5 minutes. The drivers door was pounded in onto him before the car was punched away. As a side note the car could be driven on to the trailer after the hit and the main damage was the collapse of the 2 side intrusion bars.
The CRX was hit in the drivers door by a 4,000 lb Camaro. Again the side intrusion bars bent inwards. Squished the driver between the intrusion bars and the center tunnel. Driver was seriously injured and spent a very long time in the hospital with internal injuries and many fractured bones (pelvis, hips, thighs, ribs, etc....)
I am not a girly man, however I do believe in taking calculated risks and as I am racing for a $15 plastic trophy, I would prefer to make it home after a weekend. By the way a number of us are in the process of getting Hans devices for the same reason. I am just glad that you guys in OZ haven't had to experience this as yet.
No-one in Australia runs anything near that extensive. Are aussies just stupid? Are we missing something? Or are you guys just big scared girls blouses?"
I can't speak for Trent, I have just as much if not more side protection in mine. Is it overkill, maybe. It weighs a ton, however my car is still underweight for its class here in Canada and I would rather put the extra 50 lbs into safety and chassis stiffening than a lead plate under the car.
I prefer more side intrusion as in the last few years I have seen 1 person killed and one seriously injured in exactly the same way. Both were driving smaller (240 SX Nissan, 2000 lbs and CRX 1850 lbs) Gt race cars. Both had cages that met the letter of the law, 2 side intrusion bars of the proper gauge and tube size. Both had their side intrusion bars either bent back through the driver or ripped out of the uprights. In the case of the 240 SX it was hit in the drivers door at approx 170 kmh by a VR6 Scirroco over the crest of a blind hill after it spun out. The driver succumbed to his injuries in less than 5 minutes. The drivers door was pounded in onto him before the car was punched away. As a side note the car could be driven on to the trailer after the hit and the main damage was the collapse of the 2 side intrusion bars.
The CRX was hit in the drivers door by a 4,000 lb Camaro. Again the side intrusion bars bent inwards. Squished the driver between the intrusion bars and the center tunnel. Driver was seriously injured and spent a very long time in the hospital with internal injuries and many fractured bones (pelvis, hips, thighs, ribs, etc....)
I am not a girly man, however I do believe in taking calculated risks and as I am racing for a $15 plastic trophy, I would prefer to make it home after a weekend. By the way a number of us are in the process of getting Hans devices for the same reason. I am just glad that you guys in OZ haven't had to experience this as yet.
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