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I'm so jealous of that bender. Also, let me know whenever you want your hoist back. It's seen a lot of use lately (I either need fewer engines or more cars).
The car comes home tomorrow. Here's a quick rundown of the enhancements, most of which are for safety with a side of rigidity.
Next up will be revising the cooling system. At this point I'm leaning toward dual radiators on each side of the fuel cell. This will be nicer packaging since I'll be able to make the weight low in the chassis. Time for some head scratching. The exhaust will also need to be revised obviously, and a second muffler added to the mix.
The shop is very proud of their work price wise, but they're also one of the best shops I've ever dealt with. Incredible communication, really fast turnaround and great feedback on general goals - particularly with my goals in NASA TT.
OK so I have a bit of a dilemma. The new rear substructure is awesome, very safe, and provides mounting points for a rear diffuser and my wing. It doesn't leave much space for my massive C&R radiator.
With the goal of placing what weight I have as low as possible, the big boy simply won't work. On the shelf he goes! After a beer and some beard scratching, I broke out the tape measure. directly on top of the cell is a no-go, but the sides are wide open. Looks like a 22"x13" space. Get out my Googles and BOOM, Scirocco drag radiators are pretty much that size.
Looks like I'll be switching to a dual radiator setup with each rad getting fed from a side scoop on the rear hatch.
Beetle update! Radiator frame is welded up, delrin bushings are made and radiator is mounted. Fuel cell gets a dry fit so we can plan coolant line routing and coolant tubes have been mounted in the interior. More fittings have been ordered so we can plumb everything up.
Looking for feedback on quality rear adjustable shocks for the RX7.
Don't worry about budget.
really the best thing to do on the rear is to make a thick top mount with a bracket to convert the top shock mount to an eyelet like josh18_2k did:
drill and tap the bottom mount to 1/2"-20 so you can mount an eyelet.
and then get a universal style double eyelet shock and have it valved for what you're doing. for adjustable shocks penske 7500s are relatively cheap for a great shock. you can go up to 8300 or higher if you want to get crazy.
Eage8 what gears are you running and where did you get them? Also, since you're not a drag guy I think you experience on the LSD you go would be useful as hell.
Eage8 what gears are you running and where did you get them? Also, since you're not a drag guy I think you experience on the LSD you go would be useful as hell.
currently I have motive performance 5.14s, they were great with my old stock-ish turbo but with my new EFR turbo I should have significantly better spool so I have a set of ford racing 4.56s sitting on the shelf to swap in. the 5.14s were a bit short for the lots I autocross on, but that shouldn't matter for what you're doing.
My motives are fine, they're very noisy, but I don't think that's the gear's fault. I think my diff is touching my subframe and transferring noise... I'll fix this when I reinstall it with the new gears.
detroit truetrac is similar and a bit cheaper, but doesn't have quite the same amount of "torque-biasing differential" (I think it's 3:1 instead of 4:1). Largeorangefont runs a truetrac and really likes it.
the real decision you have to make is clutch or helical (torsen).... a 1.5 way clutch is going to cause more understeer when it slightly locks the rear during turn in... but it'll also be more stable under braking because that same lock under decel prevents the brakes from locking the inside rear wheel. it'll also get less upset putting down power over bumps.
I don't have a lot of info on clutch types, it seems most people rebuild the stock ford track-lok? with cobra carbon clutches? I also know OS Giken started making a 8.8" LSD, but it's expensive and I'm not sure it has circlip grooves for the IRS axles...
I haven't had any issues with inside rear wheel brake lockup or spinning up a rear wheel over bumps with my T-2R . I ran an OS Giken 1.5 way clutch type in my T2 diff and couldn't get rid of the turn in understeer which is why I went with the torsen on mine.
Here is my car with 5.14s and a T-2R (you can see me completely run out of breath/revs going up the hill)
really the best thing to do on the rear is to make a thick top mount with a bracket to convert the top shock mount to an eyelet like josh18_2k did:
drill and tap the bottom mount to 1/2"-20 so you can mount an eyelet.
and then get a universal style double eyelet shock and have it valved for what you're doing. for adjustable shocks penske 7500s are relatively cheap for a great shock. you can go up to 8300 or higher if you want to get crazy.
I personally run 46mm motorsport Bilsteins, they aren't adjustable, but probably could have an adjustable shaft swapped in, but it gets expensive fast. Universal Motorsports Strut
ANZE makes some penske struts for FCs... but they're not inverted, so i'm not sure how I feel about them: HOME - ANZE Suspension
I have revalved bilsteins in AWR housings for the front. The rear is bagged out Koni Yellows- bouncy.
Rear diff, 5.12's, Truetrac, Timken rebuild kit, GKN outers and fresh Ford inners incoming.
Also incoming:
Ronin FC 8.8 mounting kit
Cobra Sebring Pro seat
Dual Afco radiators
New -08AN fuel system
Nomex -16AN coolant hose (45% lighter than the braided steel)
Racingbeat muffler (brings total to 2)
Nice!! You will like the Truetrac. As Eage8 said I am very happy with mine. The helical diff really lets me put the power down early on exit.
Also you may want rear wheel seals. These are the correct ones. They take a couple weeks, so order them now. I ordered some extras just to have for the future. shipping is cheap.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/280369210649?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D280369210649%26_rdc%3D1
I did a solid pinion spacer for a little more durability, and you can quickly and easily change the pinion seal if it ever leaks. It replaces the crush sleeve deal.
My motives are fine, they're very noisy, but I don't think that's the gear's fault. I think my diff is touching my subframe and transferring noise... I'll fix this when I reinstall it with the new gears.
I'll just point out that if someone makes a DXF of those plates (or puts a paper template put on a regular old scanner) big blue saw is having a sale on waterjet cut aluminum. I've ordered a few parts I designed from them in the past, and have been extremely impressed with the quality, especially for the money. You'd have to order 1/4" 6061, which is pretty ideal for a reinforcement plate like that.
