DATA AND MEASUREMENTS! Thanks for the heads up. I'm guessing if nobody is experiencing failures the design must be sound, or the lateral links don't experience as much abuse as I imagine. I know for sure I can piece together a setup for half the cost of the AWRs though.

Flatout Motorsports (http://www.flatout-motorsports.com deals with AWR stuff so it must be good. Maybe they have some on hand so I can check them out - their shop isn't far from my place. I do know I want a set of those front strut housings.


While I'm logged on, anybody have experience with these guys: ProdBodies.com ?

Looking into my widebody options.

Car will continue coming apart once I regain the use of my jackstands. Right now they're being used as a string setup so I can throw a better alignment on my Miata for AutoX.

I've been doing some cutting:

 

np

Most of the mazdaspeed motorsports stuff is also just AWR also

 

That makes sense Josh, but is quite a different statement than "don't use delrin in the rear suspension"

 

well thats the typical FC purchase - "rear suspension bushing kit" (no go). i'm not aware of any off-the-shelf bushings for the spindles.

so to clarify- OEM or bearings in the trailing arms!

 

Mazdaspeed and drop engineering both sell kits that replace the rubber tri-axial hub bushing, the DTSS bushing, and the control arm bushing...

I bought one of those kits and just didn't use the control arm bushing.

The 3rd hub bushing on the hub is actually a spherical bearing, so you don't need to replace it.

Mazda RX7 Rear Lower Control Arm Kit, 1986-1992, by Drop Engineering

neither of them will sell you just the hub bushing... I tried

 

I swear I haven't been slacking, I just keep finding ways to extend the racing season.

Took the Miata rallycross last weekend on my autocross coilovers raised up as high as they would go. HAD A BALL!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2shm...ature=youtu.be





Need to do some parts shopping for the FC as well as a little more cutting before she moves to the barn for the cage installation. Holiday spending gets in the way, but I should have a healthy bonus this year.

 

Started in on the wiring today - trying to simplify the rear harness and remove the wiring from the adjustable suspension stuff. It's slow going unwrapping it.

 

OK here's a question: How muc can I expect to get from selling my RacingBeat catback exhaust? It's in great condition, but it won't match up wih my race header unless I hack it up, which would be a shame.

 

FC is coming along nicely! Can't wait to see it completed

 

Nuff said.

 

Did you weigh it?

 

Not yet. My home scale isn't terribly accurate. I'd estimate about 4 pounds.

Picking up a 13B tomorrow to rebuild. It comes with an RB intake mani with a Webber DCOE, RB race header and exhaust from an IT7 car (not useable for mine).

 

This happened today. I also now have two race headers, one custom and one RB.

 

^GSL-SE drivetrain?

 

Recognized that it's a first gen transmission? Yes this is out of a GSL-SE.

 

Left stock: RacingBeat Race header: Custom Race header



While I was in there (dangerous words) I took the stuck 6th port actuators off and lubed them up. The sleeves were sticky too, but working them around a little seemed to free them up. Good thing, because I didn't want to pull off the intake manifold.

 

Alright, time to start spending money. First things first though, I needed safety gear to even be able to race this coming season:



Next up I'm ordering a set of 6th port sleeves from atkins: 84-91 Rx7 Atkins Designed Six Port Actuator...

And then I need to suck it up and order the rear lateral links from AWR to replace the one I bent in my little excursion.

 

Just a heads up, the AWR links require you to Drill out the tapered hole in the trailing arms and rear subframe with a 5/8" drill bit...

you might be better off getting the battle version toe links. you don't have to drill out the taper. You can get them here:
J-AUTO - Bushings, Suspension, Performance Upgrades for Mazda RX-7s

 

I didn't think drilling out was a big deal. Those are a little cheaper though, and my wallet likes cheaper after I snapped my glasses today and had to buy a new set.

 

you might have to drop the rear subframe which is no fun...

I would check to see if they're easy to find/replace endlink sizes (SAE?) before I got the battle version links though.

 

battle version is SAE rod ends, but the bolt should be the same size as the stock Mazda joint, as it can take the stock Mazda nut, off the top its a 10x1.25. at least that was how it was designed, if Alex supplies the nut, he could send you an SAE bolt, or whitworth

you should be able to install without removing the subframe

 

Yeah that's not a job that requires dropping the sub frame.

Doing my taxes right now and already looking at ways to blow my return!

 

Been working to get my garage more organized before I get elbow deep in the car:

Gotta love Harbor Freight magnetic strips.

Anyway, here's what the car looks like now:


Got my welder hooked up and now it's time to start Welding in some small tubes to hold the body parts in place and then I start cutting out some major steel from the body.

 

Everything below that black line will basically be gone, as will the floor of the hatch area to make room for the 5 gallon fuel cell and radiator.

The goal is to be at 2,400 lbs this season and 2,200 for the 2013 season. Hillclimb rules basically let me do anything I want as classes are based on engine displacement.

 

Very cool build!
I'm also working on an RX7 that I'll be using for NEHA hillclimb events. I picked up an 87 TII that was used as a drag car. It already has some good weight reduction and power adders, and shouldn't take much to get ready. Hope you're enjoying this weather... my project is on hold until it warms up a little.
Hopefully I will see you and the blue beast up in the hills some time soon.
Kurt S.