Icemastr

iTrader: (2)

If Glenn Hernandez drove your car and then you matched his time your car is handling bad. I had Kevin Dietz drive my car once and I beat his time my next run. My car was handling bad. I got my car fixed, he drove it again, beat me by 4 seconds on a 60 second course and I only caught up by about a second. I have done more than just a few autocross events. Sounds like you need an alignment and need to make some adjustments to your sway bar. The Turbo II is not too competitive in BS and the WWSCC events are pretty competitive in AS however you can still be pretty competitive. I am sure Glenn Hernandez could win AS in your car against those STIs and 350Zs.

in-zane

yeah, undoubtedly.

i did actually get the alignment done after i put the shocks and bar on there. in fact, apparently i put the struts back on in the wrong position because he had to drop them down and rotate them to get max negative front camber. the rear control link bushings were shot, so he didnt even want to do the alignment. tells me this at 5:30 on friday afternoon of course. i went to pull-a-part, got some off an S4 there for $2, brought them back and went to sports car spectacular the next day on a new suspension i had no idea how to tune.

handling is poor, but there are other issues that need to be addressed as well, i just havent had a chance to do them yet. what do u drive in WW?

Icemastr

iTrader: (2)

If you went to the Miatacross my girlfriend drove Alan Dahls Audi, I have only gone to one event this year and I took my 99 Miata. I probably wont make it over to any more WWSCC events this year but next year I should do most of them. I do most of the NWR-SCCA, SSSCC, and any BSCC and WWSCC events I can pick up when I am over in Seattle working.

in-zane

yep, i saw her there. how did she do? they still havent posted the results yet...

RrrracerX7

For sure match up your swaybars... the big front bar is causing your understeer, and in Stock class you can't change the rear... so ditch the front bar. Use the shocks to tune your transitional problems. Swaybars will help tune out steady-state over/understeer issues. Good luck!

Shane
www.aimtuning.com

in-zane

yeah, gonna end up trying that and see what happens. thx for the help guys =)

DriveFast7

iTrader: (1)

quote:

"Just because you are new to autocross or the car doesn't mean you are slow. I was trying to get an idea of what we were trying to address. Understeer is a symptom of over-driving the car. As Damon said, you are trying to make the car do more than grip will allow. Back off a bit. ApexL8t hit it with "Slow down to go fast." My FC likes straight-line braking with turn-in just before releasing the brakes to induce rotation; follow with constant 50%ish throttle to apex, nail it on the track-out. If I enter a corner too fast, the understeer is awful. If I enter a little slow, I can get on the throttle earlier to compensate for the reduced cornering load. The moral is that IF I'm going to screw up, it is better to brake a little earlier or too much than to brake late or too little. You can make up the difference with the throttle."

*very good* advice. very good.

apexhittinbull

iTrader: (21)

* trail brake

dbgeek

ROFL

in my FC, trail brake == d0r1f+0 or spin

RB sways, adjustable end links, Tokico Blues, GCs 440/275, urethane all around, DTSS elim, front and rear adj camber, 0 toe all around, on Azenis RT-215

I had a miata driver run my car a couple of weeks ago. He spun 5 times in 6 runs. I dropped 2lbs from the rear tires and ran over a second faster than him. Loose is fast, but too loose is slow.
I'm debating whether I should remove the rear sway bar. The GCs made the car an oversteer monster, and required a 3 lb drop in rear pressures to compensate.

BUT... on 60 series rubber (Yoko AVSi) at VIR, the car was ultra-neutral.

Jims5543

iTrader: (2)

I am amazed no one has suggested this yet.

Best way to get seat time? A seasons worth (maybe 2 seasons worth) in one day?

http://www.autocross.com/evolution/

I went to this school over the winter and did a Phase 1 and Phase 2 together over a weekend.

I cam back the next season in ASP with my underdog TII and went from loosing by 0.4 to 0.5 seconds to winning by almost 1 second. My competitors (especially the one driving the Z-06) wanted to know what I changed on the car. When I replied the driver they looked baffled. The Z-06 driver did the school and things went back to normal he was beating me with the faster car. I gave up and switched to BP.

Spend the money and do the school every thing you spend on the car will be a waste of money until you develop good driving skills.

Also, I have had problems with understeer and Hoosiers as well. Try adding 5-7 lbs more pressure to the rear tires than the front. Another thing to do which was mentioned here. Set up better for your turns, slow in fast out. If it seems like you are going slow your probably goign your fastest. Smooth is fast. If all hell is breaking loose inside the car your probably loosing a lot of time.

Do the school, its the best money you can spend on the car.

dbgeek

Good point Jims5543.
I also did the Evo School Phase 1 and 2 in a single weekend. While I think it is rather pricey, the value is there because the instructors are generally very good (national level drivers), and you get oodles of seat time.

DamonB

Taking two schools in one weekend is expensive but I guarantee that money spent on the driver will make the car faster than that money spent on ANYTHING you could have done to the car.