Im starting to build a full track car and was wondering what to leave and what to remove when gutting a car out

 

Keep removing stuff until it doesn't start, run, turn, and stop anymore.

 

real funny
im serious

 

rear seats, spare tyre, sound deadner (the corky kinda stuff in the back), carpets, passenger seat, centre console, dash, any plastic shrouds (around the steering column etc) any un-needed electronics(stereo etc) air con, power steering.

then.. insert a rollcage with the most triangulation points you can afford, insert a fixed back racing seat and a 13BBPT and lots of suspension goodies. then give me your car

 

It will depend on if you are running a specific class, some classes require certain items be in the car.

 

^Very true. I've saved a list of weight reduction tips from other forum members that might help.

* Single Turbo Conversion
* Full Exhaust
* Remove AC/Power Steering
* Remove Heating System
* Air Bag Removal w/ aftermarket steering wheel
* Seats
* Harness Simplification
* Remove Jack
* Remove Spare Tire
* Smaller Battery-Odyssey mini battery
* Remove Sound Deadening
* Remove Carpet Padding
* OMP and all manifold accessories/Emissions
* Lighter Brakes
* Lighter Rims (if possible)
* Lighter Tires ???
* Remove Wipers/wiper motors and rods
* CF Hood (stock hood is already VERY light, may not save weight)
* CF Hatch + lexan glass
* CF driveshift (don’t know of a company that makes them for the FD)
* Remove Power Antenna
* Remove Stereo
* Remove Interior Panels
* Remove Hatch Panels
* Install Titanium suspension pieces (trailing arms/Toe Links)
* Lighter Shocks/coilovers

Carbon Vs Stock Hatch

(From RevRotor)

Stock rear hatch w/glass and stock R1 wing = 53lbs
Glass only= 19lbs
Carbon fiber hatch only (no lexan)=14lbs
Lexan only=12lbs

(From AMRX7)

Stock R1 wing weighs about 4lbs.

 

One question that you need to answer - does this car need to be road legal or are you going to trailer it?

From your other post it seems that you have never been on a track before - so here is my best advice. Don't mod the car for performance. Mod for reliability as needed. Leave stock otherwise. Spend your money to make sure that everything is in good working order. Then spend it on the driver. The more seat time you get, the better. The car will not be the limiting factor for a long, long time.

Good luck,

-bill

 

^^^^
Wrankin's advice is sound.

However, I wasn't really kidding at all. You literally take out the stuff that the car doesn't need to run. If you don't understand what stuff that is, I wouldn't mess with it in the first place, but a good start is all of the creature comfort/sound deadening/appearance-related stuff. It's really too numorous to list everything.

 

I've seen plenty of very fast full track cars with full interiors and creature comforts like A/C. Get out there and you'll see them too.

 

if its a track day in a street car, i just clean all the crap out of the trunk/backseats, and pull the floor mats out.

if you're actually building a full race car, you follow the rules.

 

Im gona trailer it
thanks everyone for the advice

 

Then gut it... weld the body seams...

 

thanks

 

be very careful with your plans on what you want to do with the car. If you think you will ever run it with certain race groups like scca or nasa, you should build the car with their rules in mind, and try to take as much advantage of the rules as possible. If on the other hand you just want a track car, gut it till your hearts content!

 

And here is the ubiquitous link to Crispy's pages on his FC track car build. Chock full 'o good ideas.

http://www.negative-camber.org/crispyrx7/fc/fcpart1.htm

Happy gutting,

-bill

 

Thanks wrankin

 

I have to buy Crispy a beer if I ever meet him. I've referenced those pages quite a bit over the last three years.

Be sure to read all 28(?) installments, as he 'rediscovers' some things along the way.

 

Ditto (although I have met him, just never bought him the beer ). It's been real helpful to me since the FC track car I bought was from another one of the DC guys and it's a very similar build.

29 episodes in our hero's epic battle, plus an engine rebuild.

-bill

 

Definately check the rules for the race body & the run group you plan to run the car with and see what they say is acceptable to remove.

I'd do that before removing anything out of the car.