Re: OCC, what about putting the catch can between the fill neck and the UIM and cap the primary turbo line?

 

That's exactly what everyone does that has a single turbo and trust me it doesn't work UNLESS you have a nicely baffled filler neck or top etc...

I'll post more on this subject after this weekend.

I'll repeat; what's worked for me in the past is leaving the stock plumbing to the UIM and running a line from the down port that comes off the fill neck to a catch can and on the other port of the catch can run a line to the intake elbow that goes to the single turbo intake.

I believe this works because the check valve blocks the oil while boosting which is the only time you really need to worry about it when tracking your car.

 

fritz how do you like the 275 on a 9.5 wheel? I always assumed the slight stretch of the 255 gave a better contact patch and more response for road course stuff.

 

General rule of thumb is to run as much tire as you COMFORTABLY can. I'd be worried running a 275 on a 9 inch but on a 9.5 inch it isn't too bad. Ideally a 10 would be perfect.

In other words I think you will have more grip/contact patch with a 275 on a 9.5 inch wide rim than you would have with a 255 tire. Some tires differ though so you never know. For example a 255 hoosier may be wider or as wide as their 275 so always refer to the actual tire specs for true contact patch.

The stretch thing is popular right now but again practically speaking you want as much tire as you can safely/comfortably run.

 

For the BMW event this weekend I replaced the wastegate spring with a stiffer one and the car is now boosting 13psi which is actually pretty badass with this big turbo but it is LAGGY. Reminds me a lot of Brad Barbers old car that I bought and tracked for a few years. It had a t78 on it boosting about the same amount.

Still overfilling the catch can so I just daisy chained a bigger catch can (30 plus ounce walmart water bottle) to the little one which worked but I may try going back to the original setup and hope that works or just leave as is and dump the quart in the catch can back in after each session lol.

Again original setup was leaving the stock hose and check valve in place from the fill neck to UIM and running the down port on the neck to the catch can and the other line on the catch can to the intake elbow.

Again tires are old 2010 hankook c51s with now 5 or 6 days on them BUT this car was still rocking and rolling in 80 plus degree weather. Best time was a 1.36 (my best time ever on the north is a 1.34). Traffic is brutal with BMW and by the time I had any free sailing it was the last session Sunday and the tires were completely smoked. Still able to easily catch a fairly fast 996 GT3. See vid of that and a general lapping vid.

Current list of issues:
possible exhaust leak
trans leaking a little
oil return line fitting leaking a little (could the oil coming from that line be pressurizing the pan )
would like a better catch can solution
diff knocking pretty hard but hopefully it will hang in there

PS OS giken geared trans I bought from Rich (goodfellas) is SWEET

 

I enjoyed the videos, you definitely had some traffic to contend with! I am growing more and more eager for my engine rebuild and associated work to be completed.

 

Thanks and good luck with your build

 

Great driving Fritz. Is that red flashing LED on your gauge a temp warning lamp?

 

^I wondered the same thing

Good vid Frtiz

 

Are those BubbleTech door panels? I might need to get something like that at some point, if only for more elbow room...

 

Thanks man

Yep oil temp warning comes on at 200 and it was at approx 217 to 220. I have huge 25 row coolers that have good duct work so I just need 35 row I guess LOL. But 220 isn't horrible for synth oil but it's robbing some power for sure. Water is never above 180s.

Thanks!

Nope, they are just cut aluminum panels painted black. It's awesome though to have a company like bubbletech out there but I'm a cheap bastard.

 

Willing to perform an experiment for us? When looking at my cooling I realized I had great ducts going into the oil coolers, but nothing out. It runs to the washer/coolant bottles and then fender liners right behind that. The factory fender vent is supposed to take air from behind the oil coolers and flow it up above the fender and out the vent, but I just don't think it can flow enough for big dual coolers and track use.

I cut out squares of the fender liners and put stainless mesh to allow somewhere for the flow behind the oil coolers to go. then I did the same for the fender vent side to try to create more flow into and thru the wheel well....you'll notice the brake ducts on your GT3 use the area right below there to push air thru the wheel well to the brakes.

I unfortunately don't have a way to track oil temps, but I noticed it helped my water temps out which is what I was after. I'd be interested to have you try it though and see if it makes a direct effect on your oil temps.

 

I know its alot of work but using the secondary turbo drain hole in the rear iron and the factory hole on the filler neck plumbed to a catch can worked for me. I disabled the PCV and ran only the two lines mentioned and never had more than an ounce in my catch can running at full on the dipstick. -10 hose from the rear Iron was the key I think. YMMV.

 

Regarding oil temps, another thing to look at is your T-stat. I have an Improved Racing 185 and once I hit 185, bam! temps drop to like 160 with dual Setrab 25s (I have yet to get back on the track tho). They also make a 165 and 145. Design is straight through so when it's opened, there's no restriction.

 

Already done and as mentioned it likely does help a little. Again 220 on oil is no biggie IMO and most cars operate at 200 plus oil temps just daily driving etc... really no need to seriously worry until you see 250 plus. Many corvettes run around at 275 all day long.

that actually wouldn't be much work for me because I have a custom pipe with fitting already attached etc.... but my understanding is you just open up more problems or the oil will simply finds it's way out of that side as well and into your catch can so now you have issues turning left or right. I'll give it a try though.

Please let me know exactly how you have it setup. For example are you running the feed from the turbo drain to the catch can or the fill neck or in other words where are all the lines going to and from on your setup etc...?

Thanks!

 

160 or even 185 is too low for oil. Most cars work best or get the best mileage at 200 or so. The thicker the oil the harder the engine has to work.

My car is a pure track car so I don't have a thermostat. If it's cold out I may need to block one side but rarely am I driving in sub 40 or 50 degree weather.

 

This method also produced less than an ounce of oil in the catch can after a long track day (on R-comp tires, oil filled to max).

Welded a AN/or barb onto the block off plate for the secondary oil drain (rear housing). Ran it straight to the catch can. Also run the line from your filler neck straight to your catch can. I personally still have my oem PCV/check valve line going to the filler neck as well, others dont.

The baffled filler neck barely helped. Doing what I mentioned makes the biggest difference imo.

To better illustrate here is what I am talking about.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...ce-car-792344/

 

Armen and I look to have both used the same setup. -10 Line from the rear Iron directly to a catch can. Stock fill neck vent line straight to the catch can. Ill see if I can find a pic but it looks very similar to the link Armen posted.

 

Thanks guys. I'll give it a try

 

How'd you handle the handles, locks, and switches?

 

Handles screwed into the panel with wood screws and window switches popped into little boxes welded on.

 

Agreed, FD owners seem to be a little too sensitive about oil temps. My track day oil temps on a hot day (98F ambient at Road Atlanta last weekend) are in excess of 260F measured at the oil filter. I have R1 dual oil coolers. A cool-down run down the back stretch brings the temps back down to 255, and my gauge doesn't read past 260, so I'm guessing hot laps put the temps in the 270-275 range. The anecdotal evidence suggests I should be terrified about these temps, but the engine seems to survive just fine. Maybe a UOA is in order.

 

The car looks like its not nearly as loose as it was before .
were you happy with the setup ?

I know the tires were quite old .

or was the car under steering at all ?

from the video's point of view the back end looked very planted .

 

how were your water temps? Generally rotary owners are concerned with oil temps because they affect water temps much more than piston cars. I'm never concerned about the oil breaking down from heat (fuel dilution will happen first), but that it'll drive up my water temps.

 

Water temps were fairly stable in the 225-230 range.