IAN

iTrader: (3)

Asking in this section because figure there would have been a few changed out in the race section..

Rear wheel bearings and front bearings. Go stock or what is the difference between these brands. Huge price difference.
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/198...l_bearing.html


http://www.wheelbearingwarehouse.com...0Seals&mode=PA

mazda is like $130 or something each for the rear!!

jgrewe

iTrader: (1)

Any well known brand will work fine. Chances are if you recognize the name, it's a good bearing. I seriously doubt Mazda makes their own bearings for any of the roller stuff. They buy it from somewhere, cut them out of the deal.

Sabre002

iTrader: (3)

I find Timken USA bearing when at all possible.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the OE Mazda bearings are usually from Koyo.

23Racer

Ian, I have used Mazda Rear Bearings for years in my car. The only time I even have to think about it is when I have to change the the wheel studs, I have to pull the hub out and it breaks the bearing.

For the fronts, I just go to Canada Bearing, http://canadianbearings.com/DeliverMore/ . I buy the generic bearings and use those. When you open the box, they say Koyo! The main thing I found was that on the front it is critical to get the proper pre-load on the bearing and use the best grease you can afford. It gets very hot in there and cheaper greases can turn back into oil and clay and chew up the bearing. Also, if you don't pre-load the bearing properly you can get movement and crack the outer race. Don't ask me how I know, LOL.

Eric

IAN

iTrader: (3)

Putting new Studs all around. Pressing out the rears means like you said I may have to get new bearings. I'm going broke just installing new studs!! Found one front bearing that should be replaced and will go as you suggest....

dmak

iTrader: (3)

what kind f grease do you recommand for the fronts eric? I need to change 1 of my front bearing and am thinking might as well change all 4 with new wheel studs. think NAPA would be a good source for the rears as Ian mentioned it cost $130 just for each rear bearing. I dont even know if my mechanic knows how to change te front bearing as mazdatrix mentioned a FAQ on how to change it. seems like i have to grind out something in order to have access to the fronts?

eage8

iTrader: (9)

while were on the topic... how do you guys torque the front bearings? do you actually use a pull scale? Is there any easier way to do it?

IAN

iTrader: (3)

I just used High pressure/temp wheel bearing grease. Usually regrease every so often. Replied to your PM on what I have used on studs and bearings.

IAN

iTrader: (3)

I just did it by feel

jgrewe

iTrader: (1)

Do it by feel also, too tight and it will drag when it gets hot. The only grease I use is stuff from Aerospace Lubricants---> http://syntheticlubricants.aerospace...=prod&filter=0

Found it years ago running an FB in ITA. It was the only grease that didn't give me a 'spider web' pattern on the front wheels from running out of the grease cap after 10 or 15 laps.

23Racer

I am actually using a synthetic grease as well. A number of years ago I worked in the OE auto industry and was involved in product development with NTN Bearings. As part of my sponsorship agreement with them, they gave this tub of a white grease that they told me was absolutely the best thing to grease wheel bearings with. The rep said that it was not oil based and did not contain any clays. It was supposed to be inert to the human body and to prove it he ate some, gleech..... It was used in roller bearing for accessory belt tensioners and is flat out great.

Anyways, I have used that grease ever since and it is not commercially available to over the counter people and I can't get any more. As well, since I have used it for soooo long, the label has worn off, but I doo remember that it was a flouro ------- something and I expect not that great for the environment to make.

If I can't use that grease, I just use a full synthetic Agip product that works very well. Oh yeah, I use the torque till I feel a bit of resistance as well.

Eric

eage8

iTrader: (9)

I've heard Redline CV2 grease works really well... I haven't packed a wheel bearing with it yet though.

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=82&pcid=17

Valkyrie

Personally I just used a small (low-torque) torque wrench set to the middle of the torque spec for the bearings.

Make sure the wheel turns smoothly after doing so and it should be fine.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

there is no torque spec though

there is just a torque to seat the bearings then you're supposed to loosen it and torque until there is a specific resistance with a pull scale on the lugs.

Casual_John

iTrader: (8)

I believe the Hayes manual says 14-22 lb/ft on front wheel bearings. Correct me if I'm wrong, cause I just finished re-torq them to 20 lb/ft.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

that's to seat the bearing... you're then supposed to loosen it and then tighten it again till there is a certain amount of resistance on the hub:

http://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/2nd_g...rear_axles.pdf

pdf page 8 (labeled page 6)

I've just started doing it by feel, it's been fine. just tight enough so they don't feel loose

Josh18_2k

iTrader: (3)

i also do 20ft.lb on the front, no pulling. i did notice though that new bearings require periodic retorquing. I had to reset mine to 20ft.lb like 5 times in the first year, and they've been fine since (3yrs i think now?)

eidk

iTrader: (3)

Just to help you out. If you are only replacing bearings to replace your studs just get therear bearings. The front studs come out without the disassembly of the front hubs. And yes I have done it with extended arp studs