GrossPolluter

iTrader: (1)

I was debating on reinforcing the mounting tab. I saw one guy broke his a while ago. Anyone else reinforce theirs?

I was thinking of using 1/8" thick "L" steel. I forgot the proper name for the "L" or 90 degree stock. I'm thinking about using this "l" piece and then just ditching the special washer the original holes clamp down with because the stud off the mount is not long enough for reinforcement metal and washer. anyone think its a good idea?

Any other areas I should be concerned about?

I was thinking about reinforcing the rear camber arm mounting tab also. Worth the trouble? Anyone bend or break theirs?

10aeRX7

iTrader: (3)

Its just referred to as angle (ie.: 1"x 2")

Anything is better than nothing. From what I have seen on mine its the actual rubber mount that is the weak point. Unless you have a big power output where it may just break off but I doubt that.

You could remake the mount 1/8 thicker cut the stock one off and use that instead of adding to the existing also. Or clean up the welds and re-weld it.

I cant say much for the camber arm but maybe boxing it in/ adding some metal to the bottom side of the two little ears.

bumpstart

i added a "sway " bar under the diff nose ( using the two points provided for hangers for the twin exhaust )
and then attached a bushed rod end attached to the bar ,, and the bushed end to the mounting point originally for the weight on the end of the diff nose
( on a threaded adjuster so i could bias the preload and the pinion angle )

this works to supplement the original type rubber bracket and avoids a solid connection ( while allowing bias and preload )

works a1

eliminster

Bump start could you post a picture of this setup as it seems to be a better solution to the rubber bump stop mod most people use.

bumpstart

twin exhaust still fitted ...