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View Poll Results: Which FC Antisway bar would you use?
Eibach bars (adj)
4
40.00%
Suspension Tech bars (adj)
2
20.00%
Racing Beat non-adjustable bars
4
40.00%
Voters: 10. You may not vote on this poll

FC Anti-Sway Bars?

Old 09-03-02, 03:11 PM
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Arrow FC Anti-Sway Bars?

I'm looking for some options on the Suspension Tech, Eibach and RB. This would be used for mostly Solo II and some track days.

I like the sus tech because of the larger size

"Eibach Anti-Roll Bars help reduce body roll and allow the vehicle's handling to be fine tuned to the track and the driver. Kit includes urethane bushings, mounting hardware and instructions.

Eibach Front = 28.5mm, Rear = 17.0mm"


"Suspension Techniques Sway bar systems are designed to minimize body roll when cornering, resulting in improved vehicle balance and handling. Each system includes larger diameter front and rear anti-sway bars, low-deflection urethane bushings, complete mounting hardware and installation instructions. Bars also sold separately.

Suspension Tech Front = 28mm, Rear = 19mm


I think both bars are adjustable rear bars, while the RB bars are non-adjustable. I'm not really at the level to get anything custom made, unless it's cheap.

The RB sizes
Front -28.5mm Rear - 16mm


I've heard that the sus tech has crappy mounting stuff with it. While I've heard nothing but good things about the Eibach. Anyone?

Last edited by SoloIIdrift; 09-03-02 at 03:23 PM.
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Old 09-03-02, 03:19 PM
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Roughly:

F - 28.5
R - 16

And I can't vote yet. However, spring rates are going to very important as well as swaybar type. Additionally, are those bars solid or hollow? And how thick if they are hollow.

PaulC
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Old 09-03-02, 04:14 PM
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Just called mazdamotorsports and Racing beat. They are all solid. I'm guessing it's a lot more than $300 for custom tublar ones.
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Old 09-04-02, 03:09 PM
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i have eibach and love them
88 na
made a real big improvement.
also is you car lowered?
got a good 4 wheel aligment?
it all helps when put together.
robert
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Old 09-05-02, 09:55 AM
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Good to hear about the eibach bars.

Who are those phantom people voting, but not posting!? I want to know the reason behind your vote
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Old 09-06-02, 03:03 PM
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I went with the RB front, and stock rear. FC's problem is understeer so you really don't want a bigger rear bar. In fact, a lot of guys disconnect the rear bar completely for road racing/autocross. I'm going to experiment both ways.
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Old 09-06-02, 06:11 PM
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I went with the RB front, and stock rear. FC's problem is understeer so you really don't want a bigger rear bar. In fact, a lot of guys disconnect the rear bar completely for road racing/autocross. I'm going to experiment both ways.
Either you have your terms crossed or you have the wrong solution. My experience has been more toward the FC having an oversteer issue. I am more comfortable with oversteer, so I don't mind, but others may not be as comfortable with oversteer.

Cale Yarborough said "Understeer is when I hit the wall with the front of my car. Oversteer is when I hit the wall with the back of my car."
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Old 09-07-02, 05:49 PM
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yeah i've always understood that the front sway bar keeps the car flat entering the corner, while the rear sway bar keeps the car flat while exiting the corner
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Old 09-09-02, 12:47 PM
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Front rear roll stiffness biases the lateral weight transfer (the stiffer end gets a higher percentage of the lateral weight transfer).. The end that has proportionately less lateral weight transfer loses less grip.

I can't remember the attribution of the quote, but "Oversteer is when the passenger is scared. Understeer is when the driver is scared."

Stiffer front means the front loses more grip than the rear due to lateral weight transfer than the rear does.
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Old 09-11-02, 11:45 AM
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MechE00 said: "Stiffer front means the front loses more grip than the rear due to lateral weight transfer than the rear does"

Yes and No. No because I my experience tell me that FC need more roll stiffness in the front to keep the front tires from rolling over to the edge on high G's corners, I need a stiiffer front bar to limit the amount of roll at front to gain more traction since I can't dialed more negitive camber than I need in E-stock SoloII. this is my experience only.



89 GTUS
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Old 09-11-02, 01:38 PM
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Ben, true.. my quick analysis looks only at the weight transfer part of things, and assumes you have perfect tires, no camber issues, etc..

In stock class where only the front is free to swap, then if you need more roll stiffness to handle de-cambering issues then yeah, you gotta do what ya gotta do..

If not limited to stock, though, and if the chassis has enough torsional rigidity, you might be better served by stiffening both the front and back by the aforementioned guidelines, as opposed to just one side-- depending on what behaviors you're trying to tune into the chassis.

Hehehe.. I have a throrough understanding of superficial suspension tuning theory!
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