zoom63

Hey guys,

I am trying to upgrade our rear suspension set up in our NASA PT FB. I have done some reading and a lot of people suggest the G-Force engineering Tri-link. It appears g-force no longer exists??? Does anyone have a suggestion on where to get one or on a different set up? I appreciate all of the help.

Thanks again.

Kenku

KC Raceware

One of several still doing suspension stuff similar to the old Susko setup. First that came to mind anyway - I think nowadays a lot of people just fab stuff similar to it. Sure helps a lot.

zoom63

I appreciate the info man... Anyone else have a setup they really like/think works well?

wlfpkrcn

Kc Raceware Has the 3 link set up you can purchase. They also make the front rotor kits if you are using GSL-SE brakes

http://www.kcraceware.com/suspension.htm

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the old Pro7 setup was decent, its in the ballpark anyways.

you get 350# front springs, 175 rear (250/150 works too), tokico illumina's all around, the front is the Mr2 rear, or the "race" strut. the front gets camber plates. bigger front swaybar, and remove the rear bar.

alignment is zero toe in the front, maxed out negative camber.

ride height needs to be somewhere near stock, lowering too much makes the rear end get funky

zoom63

Nice, this helps a lot. Thanks a lot!

wlfpkrcn

Apparently I didn't read Kenku's response before posting

MinotaurRacing

Have you sorted this?

I have a 2 sets of suspension for the FB, a set of leda suspension but doesn't come with the stub axles, and secondly a set of GAZ dampers that have the stub axles on.

Over here in the UK, and so not sure whether it would be economical to send over the pond?

zoom63

Not sure how it is yet.... haven't been back to the track yet. We will have it back on the track in a few weeks. We took the watts link and rear sway bar out. We are running 400# front springs now and 225# springs in the rear. We also added a pan hard bar and we may add adjustable spring perches. Roger Mandeville gave us a baseline set up and we are going with a lot of his ideas. If you need to know something, call him... they are awesome people!

If this doesnt work, I will keep you in mind Minotaur!

Gian

iTrader: (3)

I one thing that kills you is how many points changing to a tri link gets you. I know 7s only is also working on alternate rear suspension options. But also moved from PTE to D.
I'm still going to try staying in E. Just haven't figured out what I'm doing back there yet.
Lots of binding going on. But looks like you have already gone with the 3 link and panard. Not a bad setup. But costly in points.

But Shocks are a BIG part of it. Don't scrimp on the dampeners. I am going with the same spring rates as you.

I ran my Spec 7 car, but with Header, Weber, Koni's and 13x225s. I could just keep up to the leaders. But some guys in Cali finally put together a Miata package for PTE. And they are very fast. So I need to pull off 3 seconds from my lap times to keep competitive.

Big front brakes and maybe Koni 30's will help. But something needs to be done in the rear. I hate being on edge ALL the time with the rear now.

sa22rally

Hey Guys im currently building a rallycar here ind denmark I havent race tested the car yet (season is over). But i have been experimenting alot with the rear end. ive mounted a volvo rearaxle thats what we do in europe like you guys and 9" ford it seems. Anyways because of the rule in my class i use the original mountings on the body but i have mooved the brakets on the rearend a bit and made the arms adjustable. I have done alot of testing without the springs mounted at just moving the rearend up and down all ways possible and it actually seems that i have been able to hit a boint where the dirveshaft dosent lock up and all the angels is correct. it took me along time to get the watt link done but the rest was actually pretty easy.
Just my experiense within the rules of my racing.

Best Regards Rasmus Andersen Denmark Sorry fore my spelling.