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Door Gutting on an FC

Old 01-20-09, 02:07 PM
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Door Gutting on an FC

Next up on my diet plans are my doors. I hacked off more material as they were previously IT rules compliant.

Before I ruin a door, how far can I go on gutting? The bottom edge of the door beneath the handle is now flimsy, I may need to do some support.

Can I take off the side impact beam in the middle? How about the reinforcement at the top of the door? Maybe the door glass frame on the top? Have I already F'd this up?

It seems the door may get too flimsy if I take off more material. Any advice from those who have gutted doors beyond mine would help. Pictures are even better.

I want to keep the car compliant with SCCA EP and NASA PT rules.

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Old 01-20-09, 06:34 PM
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IIRC you aren't allowed to add material back to a door to strengthen it after its been gutted in Prod. That bottom area will flap in the wind at speed. We just cut the inside back to area where it makes the first bend 'out' (I guess) and leave the perimeter with at least a couple bends of the stock metal. You can take out the area inside the top edge that guides the window, the part you rest your arm on while cruising... We also remove the door bars. they are 11-12 lbs each, You can see the spot welds in the jamb areas. Its best to also cut it in half with a cut-off wheel so it slides out easier.
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Old 01-20-09, 07:19 PM
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Thanks.

I think you are right about adding a support, IIRC there was something about gutting but not to the point of having to add reinforcement. Maybe I'll put some rubber stopper on the jamb which will at least keep it from coming inwards. I can always weld back some of the stock material I cut out if I absolutely had to in the corner, that should reinforce it.

Guess I'll hack out the side beams and arm rest area. This is going to be interesting.
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Old 01-20-09, 08:27 PM
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On the gutting topic, the only other thing I could see to remove maybe is the two braces that attach to the bottom of the rear deck lid area and the floor. Are these safe to remove?

I can't tell in the pic below if they have been cut out or not. Prod rules say anything below the bottom of the door window is fair game, so long as you don't need any new reinforcements. I've already got the material off the rear shock towers.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...2&d=1140806727

BTW, that is one kick *** cage. I need to have some work done on mine too look like that.
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Old 01-20-09, 08:30 PM
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That's mine, and those braces are removed in back.

Bring your car to St Pete and I'll do a cage for you!
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Old 01-21-09, 01:21 PM
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Time and money might be a problem for me to bring the car to St. Pete! Maybe Obama will send me a big check so I can go.

I looked at my door closer, looks like welding back on some stock material at the bottom corner will work.

I'm going to take the beam out, looks easy now that you mentioned the spot welds.

I'm still confused on the top part of the door though. There is the piece that has about (8) 2" holes in it. Does it come off as well or should it stay? It's held on by spot welds in the jamb area and on the top seam.
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Old 01-21-09, 05:36 PM
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Looking at your door again you have already removed the inside part on the winow edge, that's as far as I've gone too. I have a friend that uses that area to mount the stock door opener handle. Mine is pinned and I run a small chain forward in the door that will pull the clip if I grab it. That way I don't have to reach around to find the clip when I'm upside down, on fire, in a lake...

I would say come to warm St Pete for a cage when you get your gomment check but its supposed to be 32F here tonight.
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Old 01-25-09, 12:26 PM
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Old 01-28-09, 01:22 PM
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Door is done, this is about as light as I could get it without having to add supports. Later this year I will shave the handles and make something to operate the stock latch.

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