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What are you hardcore time attack/road course FD guys running as far as suspension arms and bushings?
Looking at J-Auto/BV rear setup and Powerflex Black for the rest. Wondering if it's worth it to track down some Ikeya or NAMS front arms to widen the track.
Several JDM manufacturers of spherical bearings that replace all the bushings for track FDs.
You should be able to find them and the below on RHDjapan.
For rear toe links, trailing arms and even lower arm might be easier to replace the whole arms with aftermarket that are already spherical bearing pivots.
RE Amemiya makes some reinforced front spingles that will help with the deflection you get from wide slicks especially noticeable when you have bigger diameter brakes and piston knockback from deflection.
Someone is making front lower arms with roll center correction so you can run the car low without inteoducing more body roll.
As for going wider via suspension arms it depends on stock body or widebody.
Stock body alrwady fits the widest wheel and tire with near ideal offset (I run 18x11 +45 with 305/30-18 front and rear).
Widebody will need rwconfigured suspension to run idwal offsets with wide wheels and tires- see Moto IQ Rocketbuggy FD build.
I dont track, I just drool over this stuff (except the widebody garbage).
Yes, the J-Auto rear setup replaces the lower arm, trailing arm, and toe link.
I've seen some front lower arm options from companies like Parts Shop Max, but it looks like they're built for drifting purposes (to get retard steering angle). Ikeya Formula have been disco for years. Nagisa might still have them.
The car has Feed (Shine) widebody, which iirc is +22mm. Currently has 18x10 with 285 width tires all around. How are you liking 305?
RE Amemiya makes some reinforced front spingles that will help with the deflection you get from wide slicks especially noticeable when you have bigger diameter brakes and piston knockback from deflection.
Someone is making front lower arms with roll center correction so you can run the car low without inteoducing more body roll.
@BLUE TII , do you have any additional info on the above? I get nothing when I search the webz... Thanks
Yeah, that is definitely an issue for me cause I do autox. Have rain race tires that I am using in the dry at the moment because they work best cool to luke warm.
Used to be made by Moonface- discontinued.
Hamfist Racing on here used them for several seasons Autox and one of the replaceable balljoints broke.
Also did not see the RE Amemiya reinforced spindle axle on RHDJapan anymore.
Could kill two birds with one stone and have someone make you some drop spindles.
I'd sure love to know who that SOMEONE is. I've been trying to get someone to make me some billet drop spindles (possibly incorporating RX8 front hubs), for YEARS with zero luck, even with vendors who already make drop spindles for other cars, and even offering to pay the dev costs. Literally can't get it done, like my money isn't green enough. I guess they don't have enough instagram-worthiness or something. You name 'em, I bet I've tried them. Goes for a fair amount of other things too.
I own a heavily modified Rx8 which I track regularly; FRSpec Ohlins, Brembo GT-R BBK, very aggressive alignment, etc. Might I suggest contacting 'Rev9' or similar importer and request a custom set is possible from Nielex. I feel it's a worthy 'mod' and definitely can feel the difference on track at speed. Might be worth the effort. GL
Hard to imagine a bit of sheet, that looks 1.6 or 2mm thick would do much for stiffness? Biggest and most pressing issue we experienced with the rx8, first race meeting, the lower arm/balljoint failed from off-track and/or too much ripple strip riding.....S1 car....hard to imagine that rubbish made it to production!
Old topic, but I think most of the wtac guys still run stock lower fronts on the rx7s, not that I follow very closely.
Rear trailing arms and toe links are the most important. A good set of shocks ( nothing Chinese !) and the right spring ratings are also important. 1100-1300 pounds for Hoosier a7, r7, or slicks . I run square 345 A7 's, 15 inch 6 piston rotors., and nothing has ever failed in regards to stock suspension items . You should reinforce the steering rack rack and front swaybar mounts . Camber 2.2 rear, 3.2 front . Run the car too low and it will just hit the body . I had to make offset upper front control arm bushings to get the camber as im sitting pretty high with these tires. I replaced most of the bushings but honestly didnt notice a big difference. Alignment gets knocked out more often though.
My car has been a dedicated roadrace FD since 1997 and has many titles/fastest laps.
Goes without saying.....suspension set-up is the starting point for a fast track/autoX FD.
Here's link to our build...suspension is detailed throughout the thread: https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...1013942/page2/
Goes without saying.....suspension set-up is the starting point for a fast track/autoX FD.
Here's link to our build...suspension is detailed throughout the thread: https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...1013942/page2/
Just look at partshopmax. Yes it's for drifting but you can always put steering locks on to avoid so much angle (or just don't turn your steering wheel so far). They have all kinds of adjustability and the quality is amazing. Also comes with reinforcing components to stiffen things up (e.g. tabs where the upper control arms mount). Also helped with widebody as it's made to be adjustable to go from about stock to pushing the spindle up to 3 inches out, addressing any widebody concerns. I haven't installed mine yet but opened up the box (entire front suspension kit) last week and they are a thing of beauty.
Rear trailing arms and toe links are the most important. A good set of shocks ( nothing Chinese !) and the right spring ratings are also important. 1100-1300 pounds for Hoosier a7, r7, or slicks . I run square 345 A7 's, 15 inch 6 piston rotors., and nothing has ever failed in regards to stock suspension items . You should reinforce the steering rack rack and front swaybar mounts . Camber 2.2 rear, 3.2 front . Run the car too low and it will just hit the body . I had to make offset upper front control arm bushings to get the camber as im sitting pretty high with these tires. I replaced most of the bushings but honestly didnt notice a big difference. Alignment gets knocked out more often though.
Hi Wouter,
Interesting specs on the rates and alignment. My setup for my Autox FD is quite similar, though I have less tire in the front.
And only two rotors in the engine.
BTW, the RZ rear brake rotors I got from you a couple years ago really helped balance out the braking.
This is what I'm trying to get done. These are Miata units, in AL. This guy initially said he'd do 'em, then flaked. He even had an FD chassis to scan from, and I offered to help on development. I don't understand people.
maybe the Miata deal wasn’t working out like he thought it would and then decided doing that for an FD wouldn’t be worth it. There’s the whole hyped up public health thing going down too.
01-20-20, 08:18 PM
