Can't use Antifreeze
I keep my cooling systems it top shape, and where I live there are times I need antifreeze in the car. So yea, I screw the rules...antifreeze is one hell of a lot cheaper than a motor and in 12 years of racing I have never spilled a drop!
And that's the kind of boneheaded, inconsiderate, self-absorbed, *** hattery that ruins weekends for other racers.
Anti-freeze is not allowed because it's slick as snot and not easy to clean up. Just a couple drops on a drag strip can ruin a guys day and his bank account. You drop water and it can be quickly cleaned up and/or evaporate. You lose a hose on a road course and, after a lap or two, the water is a non-issue. Drop anti-freeze and it doesn't evaporate and stays slick until marshalls are dispatched with oil dry. Not only is a safety hazard, clean up slows down events. When you lose anti-freeze, you might as well oil the track down while you're at it.
I've always used straight water and some water wetter. I've never had engines spontaneously, or over the course of time, decide to turn into heaping piles of oxidized metals.
Anti-freeze is not allowed because it's slick as snot and not easy to clean up. Just a couple drops on a drag strip can ruin a guys day and his bank account. You drop water and it can be quickly cleaned up and/or evaporate. You lose a hose on a road course and, after a lap or two, the water is a non-issue. Drop anti-freeze and it doesn't evaporate and stays slick until marshalls are dispatched with oil dry. Not only is a safety hazard, clean up slows down events. When you lose anti-freeze, you might as well oil the track down while you're at it.
I've always used straight water and some water wetter. I've never had engines spontaneously, or over the course of time, decide to turn into heaping piles of oxidized metals.
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and that's the kind of boneheaded, inconsiderate, self-absorbed, *** hattery that ruins weekends for other racers.
Anti-freeze is not allowed because it's slick as snot and not easy to clean up. Just a couple drops on a drag strip can ruin a guys day and his bank account. You drop water and it can be quickly cleaned up and/or evaporate. You lose a hose on a road course and, after a lap or two, the water is a non-issue. Drop anti-freeze and it doesn't evaporate and stays slick until marshalls are dispatched with oil dry. Not only is a safety hazard, clean up slows down events. When you lose anti-freeze, you might as well oil the track down while you're at it.
I've always used straight water and some water wetter. I've never had engines spontaneously, or over the course of time, decide to turn into heaping piles of oxidized metals.
Anti-freeze is not allowed because it's slick as snot and not easy to clean up. Just a couple drops on a drag strip can ruin a guys day and his bank account. You drop water and it can be quickly cleaned up and/or evaporate. You lose a hose on a road course and, after a lap or two, the water is a non-issue. Drop anti-freeze and it doesn't evaporate and stays slick until marshalls are dispatched with oil dry. Not only is a safety hazard, clean up slows down events. When you lose anti-freeze, you might as well oil the track down while you're at it.
I've always used straight water and some water wetter. I've never had engines spontaneously, or over the course of time, decide to turn into heaping piles of oxidized metals.
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
i was riding with my friend one time, and we were behind a new 911 when it popped a coolant hose off* and we saw a puff of something, stuff hit the windshield and then we were sideways. this is on a straight too.
antifreeze is remarkably slippery! its very dangerous on a race track.
*new 911 with dealer plate inserts, Zee Germans forgot to tighten a clamp, which of course they have only learned to do in the last 10 years or so. engine was toast.
antifreeze is remarkably slippery! its very dangerous on a race track.
*new 911 with dealer plate inserts, Zee Germans forgot to tighten a clamp, which of course they have only learned to do in the last 10 years or so. engine was toast.
Thanks for the kind words. I have given you an alternative. It is up to you to follow through or not. Based on my 12+ years ON TRACK RACING EXPERIENCE this has never been a problem for me or any of the 10+ cars I have built.
"I have pulled the trigger 5 times, and nothing....."
I only do HPDEs which don't have any coolant req, but I'm thinking about replacing with water. I've seen several off road excursions that seemed to be the result of soemthing slippery on the track. It's not that hard, nor expensive, to change out the coolant before and after each event if corrosion control is a concern.
Pure H20 also make for better heat exchange
I only do HPDEs which don't have any coolant req, but I'm thinking about replacing with water. I've seen several off road excursions that seemed to be the result of soemthing slippery on the track. It's not that hard, nor expensive, to change out the coolant before and after each event if corrosion control is a concern.
Pure H20 also make for better heat exchange
Okay, I'll fess - I have run coolant before on the track. And in one session on VIR South course during an HPDE I have dumped a lot of coolant in a Very Bad Place.
Now I run water + wetter.
To the earlier poster who brought up the issue of cold temps - with all the crap that gets into your cooling system over time, the hard freeze temp of the water+wetter combo is quite low. It will survive well into the low 20s and below w/o problem. For my track car I try and drain the block during the off-season. If its a streetable car and needs to run in the winter, drain part of the water and add anti-freeze for the winter months. Flush and refill with water+wetter in the spring.
-bill
Now I run water + wetter.
To the earlier poster who brought up the issue of cold temps - with all the crap that gets into your cooling system over time, the hard freeze temp of the water+wetter combo is quite low. It will survive well into the low 20s and below w/o problem. For my track car I try and drain the block during the off-season. If its a streetable car and needs to run in the winter, drain part of the water and add anti-freeze for the winter months. Flush and refill with water+wetter in the spring.
-bill
I ran anti-freeze for HPDE for decades. It is too much of a hassle to replace before each track day in the FD. Bleeding the system is a biatch. Only once had a problem with some hack in a Subaru that was wrenching on the car instead of driving it and finally made it out on track.
I don't run anti-freeze in my race car. There is much more incidence of contact and leaking anti-freeze.
I don't run anti-freeze in my race car. There is much more incidence of contact and leaking anti-freeze.
If your using anit-freeze in a race car. It's just a matter of time before you ruin it for everyone.
Water wetter and distilled water is good. There are some additives like RM125 and I think Bars leak rust inhibitor or rust inhibitor/water pump lubricant.
Water wetter and distilled water is good. There are some additives like RM125 and I think Bars leak rust inhibitor or rust inhibitor/water pump lubricant.
Just for clarity, I believe the context of this thread is "race car and wheel to wheel racing", not HPDE's. I don't know of any organization that requires HPDE cars to not use anti-freeze for the events. Heck in some countries, they don't even require non-W2W drivers to wear helmets.
Please let me know, what, if any NASA events you plan on attending. I'll be sure to give the tech shed (if i'm not in it) a heads up....
I don't run NASA any more...long story. I may (making plans) be in your neck of the woods Labor day to run the SCCA race at Branierd. But since you follow the lesser series I doubt you will be around.
My car is a race only car. I have been doing track day event to sort the car out. I run the car with Northern California Racing Club. They also have along with track day events a racing series ARC and I plan on running in that. Even if I only would do track day events I would run with water only. I don't want to be the guy that cause someone to get hurt because a popped a hose. The car have water only when I first got the car and I ran it for two years and no rust. I rebuilt the engine this year and the water is getting rusty so I don't know what was in the car when I bought it. I will drain it and try the distilled water see how that works. I drain the cooling system in the winter because I live up in the mountains of California and gets down in the low teens in the winter. Thanks everyone for posting here on this.
Since we're talking wheel to wheel here, what sanctioning body? Looking through the SCCA rules, I can't find anywhere that says no antifreeze. There are just a ton of references to the requirement of a coolant catch can.
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,243
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From: Kennewick, Washington
Distilled water will actually pull minerals from the engine. In piping systems, distilled water is ran in anything BUT metal pipes if you want longevity.






