neil Gueldner

iTrader: (1)

Can anyone post pics of their brake ducting on a first gen?

I am interested in how the backing plates are modified or replaced, and where exactly the air is directed on the rotor/hub.

I've got someone lined up to fab a set of ducts for me out of aluminum, I just need to give him the basic idea. I've never actually seen the Mazda Comp or any other brake ducting for the first gen.

Any help would be appreciated.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Chris

specRX7_22

ive heard different point of views on brake ducts. with the bracket that directs air directly on the back surface of the rotor, some say this is worse because it will cool the rotor unevenly and actually cause cracking more than not using a duct at all. However, I don't know how true that is because I know of MANY people who use this system. My Dad just aimed the end of his hose so it cools the entire area behind the wheel. Is this better... who knows. I think if it were up to me, I would still purchase the bracket.

Cwaters

I always brake for ducks. Their bills are hard and can poke right through your oil cooloer or radiator. And the feathers!
...uh...nevermind

specRX7_22

thats not funny... i almost hit a damn goose and its little babies the other day. the goddamn thing hissed at my wheel lol.

rhinor61

The problem with the Mazda Comp ducts are when you jack up the car they will bend on your oversize front sway bar. I ran the MC units, and bent the back open everytime I had the wheels off the car.
I seen people making two 1-1/2 inch hose adapters on the factory backing plates that gave good cooling and better clearance than the MC.
It will help you from cracking, and make sure not to use the brakes while sitting still after a hard run.

John

rhinor61

Correction: they will bend when you turn the wheels and not keeping them straight ahead when the car is jacked into the air.

John

specRX7_22

That's the key. If possible, take a few cool down laps with NO BRAKING at all. when you finally park, pull in SLOWLY, clutch, kill the motor, and let out the clutch to stop. Then, every 5-10 minutes, roll the car so the hot pad isnt touching the same spot on the rotor.

calvin

Yup, I have done this on the rx7 street/track car and other race cars. I have never had the brake rotor warpage probems that other people seem to always coomplain about. I think that is my secret. Take a cool down lap to be just that.... cool down go slow, don't use brakes, try not to use brakes as you come back into the paddock, and drive a couple of cool down laps around the paddock very slowly not using the brakes at all. It makes tha parts last.

Chronos

Anyone care to post pics of some brake ducts on a 3rd Gen?

rotarygod

iTrader: (1)

Do not use the Mazdacomp brake ducts in that picture. There is another set available from Mazdacomp that was designed for their IMSA GTP car. They are the only other ducts in the 1st gen section other than the GSL-SE ducts. They are the cheaper of the two sets at around $80 or so. They are not direct bolt ins though. There is a good amount of triming involved. I have these ducts on my car but sadly don't have any pictures. I may just have to get the wheel off so I can snap some pictures. These ducts are much better designed than the other ones. You must use a 3" wire reinforced rubber hose to duct from the front of the car. They don't do much good without these. Do not use any type of dryer duct from the hardware store! It takes a little bit of work to find a way to get the hose in without rubbing. The only time they rub is only slight and this is when the wheels are turned all the way at their extreme limits. You'll be surprised at how much longer your brakes last from just a little bit of air. I agree with still taking a cool down run.