They tend to leak prematurely, the bleed screws strip easy. They are cheaper than Stoptech and Brembo for a reason, you get what you pay for.

 

Interesting. I never considered wilwood El cheapo stuff.
I did think stoptech did anything but kits for specific cars. I'll check em out

 

AP racing has a combo of parts I'd really like but it seems like they don't have much presancp in the states. Bummer

Also something interesting to note is if you can run 11.75 x 1.x inch rotors, it's dirt cheap. A 10 inch rotor is double the price.

so the AP caliper is the cp2271 "monte Carlo"
i like it's plainness, suits an old rx7 I think.

 

I like AP's CP8250, CP8240, and CP8241 - they're basically better Wilwood Superlites, or there's the CP8350 which is the same thing in radial mount. https://www.essexparts.com/ is the main American AP racing dealer. Performance Friction's ZR34 and ZR94 seem like good pieces too.

edit: The Stoptech STR-42 and STR-43 are basically better Dynalites and Superlites too; Stoptech really wants to sell complete engineered kits but there's some resellers that just sell the racing grade capliers and they're about the same price as the inexpensive APs.

 

Wilwood IS el cheapo on the brake scale. Price out non el cheapo stuff sometime!

Hell, even stock Mazda four piston calipers were like $700 each when they were available, and those are relatively high production mass produced parts.

 

 

How about Coleman racing?

 

coleman makes excellent rotors. I have no experience with their calipers , that is if they even have them.

 

I ran Willwood superlite6's and willwood 12.9"x1.25" rotors up front on my 459 rwhp Turbo II. The front was set up full recirculating and used the willwood bias bar triple master cylinder pedal. I ran that setup for years with a consistent, firm pedal. No issues with the calipers. Finally replaced the rotors due to excessive buildup of pad material from a bad set of carbotech brake pads. Willwood quailty is just fine for most amateur racing.

-Trent

 

Any thoughts on calipers with or without dust boots? I’m worried about not having dust boots on a primarily street driven track car.

 

in a street car you want the dust boots. basically the non dust booted ones will need to be taken apart and rebuild more quickly, which is ok on a race car, where you might have a schedule for something like that, but on a street car you'd rather bolt them in an not have to, well, rebuild the calipers once a year.