I was wondering if anyone has fitted 4 piston willwood calipers to their FB. I am curious to know what kind of wheel offset changes if any were required to make them fit in a 13x7 or 13x8 wheel. and if anyone already makes a bracket to mount them so i don't have to make one myself.

 

i dont recall who makes it brembo or will wood but one of the actually sells a Big brake kit with 4 piston calipers for the FB

 

We built a replacement hub and Wilwood 12.19" rotor and 4-piston caliper years ago, I think Dave still has a mock-up in storage...give him a call at
Eight Five Eight Three Four Nine Two Five One Two.

 

respeed makes brackets to mount TII hubs, rotors and 4 piston aluminium calipers to the FB.

175 bucks

 

i have seen the conversion kits for the fc hubs, but i have to much money invested into multiple sets of 13x7 and 13x8 wheels that i cant just replace them all just to upgrade my brakes. but if anyone does know of a upgraded caliper and or rotor combination that will work with 13 inch wheels that would be awesome to know about...

thanks

 

The limitation on 1st gen braking is not the caliper as much as it is the itty bitty rotor. You need a bigger rotor, and the only way to fit that is to go to bigger diameter wheels.

I have Wilwood rotors and Dynalite 4 piston calipers on all 4 wheels of my winning SA 1st gen 300 hp road racer, and I had to go to 15" wheels, which just barely clear the 11.8" OD rotors. 16" wheels would be better.

Brakes convert kinetic energy into thermal energy, and the limit on how much thermal energy you can absorb is limited by how many pounds of rotor you have (hub weight doesn't count.) Good air ducts will cool the brakes in between the braking zones, but air ducts alone will not absorb the thermal energy while it is being generated during braking. It takes many pounds of iron rotor to absorb that much heat.

 

I second speedturn's opinion, You will have a better pedal feel with the 4 piston calipers up until you feel the thump of a cracked rotor. Maybe you could find a set-up with a thicker rotor and a top hat. That way you may get a larger heat sink and better heat dissipation with a little better design. And when you do toast a rotor it will be cheaper to replace.

 

braking power isn't really my issue so far, its the cooling issue i have problems with at this point. i am at a point where i am border line smoking bearings from the heat on tracks where heavy braking is necessary. this is why i was hoping to go to a better rotor, i.e. slotted or something like this, but i am going to be putting in an EP equilavent engine this season so i also assumed i would be needing the extra stopping power as well now. but it is starting to seem like i am going to have to go to a bigger diameter wheel to accomidate bigger brakes. thanks for your opinions so far

 

Seven's Only in California has both an EP legal setup that uses the stock caliper on an aftermarket disk mounted to an aluminum hub in the SE size I believe. They also have the same aluminum hub and rotor setup with a Wilwood caliper if you are not constrained by rules requiring the stock caliper. Have you tried them yet?

 

no i haven't....i will check into that

 

Do you have brake ducts feeding shrouds at the center of the rotors?

Do you have all the rust and crud cleaned out of the vanes in the rotors?

 

i didn't have brake ducts last season but i do have them now so that should help out tremendously i hope. and cleanlieness of the rotors wasnt an issue though