Anyone sell adjustable sways for the FC?
#4
the implications matter
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Both of the above are based on speedway engineering bars. You can shop direct if you're so inclined. You want a 36" long 1 1/4" OD bar. I recommend 1/8" wall for good balance but you can step up to 3/16" wall if you want a stiffness bump (you'll probably need a rear bar at that point.)
I've been in process of building one of these for myself but it's tough to package well. Be warned that you may lose a bit of wheel travel on the inboard side. If you stay rotary the best thing to do is to run bushings straight through the frame rails so you can tuck it tighter in board (frame rails have that lip that flares out at the bottom). See if Dave Lemon of MazdaTrix will take some pictures of his setup. It's nice plus he runs longer than normal connecting links so it's easier to take advantage of adjustments in the bar without creating a lot of link angularity.
The upside is that my bar will be just a touch softer than the RB bar so I don't need a rear bar and it weighs 5 lbs (stock bar is 10 lbs, RB bar is 15 lbs.)
I've been in process of building one of these for myself but it's tough to package well. Be warned that you may lose a bit of wheel travel on the inboard side. If you stay rotary the best thing to do is to run bushings straight through the frame rails so you can tuck it tighter in board (frame rails have that lip that flares out at the bottom). See if Dave Lemon of MazdaTrix will take some pictures of his setup. It's nice plus he runs longer than normal connecting links so it's easier to take advantage of adjustments in the bar without creating a lot of link angularity.
The upside is that my bar will be just a touch softer than the RB bar so I don't need a rear bar and it weighs 5 lbs (stock bar is 10 lbs, RB bar is 15 lbs.)
#5
Lives on the Forum
Alternatively you could cut the ends off your existing sway bars and get new ends welded on that have room for more holes.
Suspension Techniques S4 front bar is adjustable and I thought that the Eibach ones (or at least the rear?) was adjustable.
Suspension Techniques S4 front bar is adjustable and I thought that the Eibach ones (or at least the rear?) was adjustable.
#6
FC Racer
Thread Starter
Lots of options. I like Graham's suggestion, just not sure how strong that would be, even with really good welds, the torsional strength it would need might surpass that.. I had a similar setup on my cobra, had a long bar, and the endlinks could simply be slid up and down the bar for adjusting infinitely.
#7
Lives on the Forum
How strong it is will depend on how you shape the piece and how much weld you can use. If you make the new ends a bunch wider than the bar and carve out the middle, then you can have it wrap around the end of the bar with welds all along those ends. That would be a lot stronger than simply welding on a little piece directly on the cut end of the bar.
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#8
FC Racer
Thread Starter
Thats true. However, you wouldn't be able to make the bar any stiffer, only softer than it started out as no? I don't see being able to mount the endlinks much further up the end of the bar. When adjusting swaybars, moving them linearly along the end of the bar does not equate to linear rate change of the bar itself does it?
#9
GET OFF MY LAWN
iTrader: (1)
Thats true. However, you wouldn't be able to make the bar any stiffer, only softer than it started out as no? I don't see being able to mount the endlinks much further up the end of the bar. When adjusting swaybars, moving them linearly along the end of the bar does not equate to linear rate change of the bar itself does it?
#10
FC Racer
Thread Starter
Thats what I thought.
I wonder how hard it would be to have a shop replicate a bar like the RB bars but make them thicker, and longer at the ends..?
I wonder how hard it would be to have a shop replicate a bar like the RB bars but make them thicker, and longer at the ends..?
#11
RIP Mark
iTrader: (2)
How strong it is will depend on how you shape the piece and how much weld you can use. If you make the new ends a bunch wider than the bar and carve out the middle, then you can have it wrap around the end of the bar with welds all along those ends. That would be a lot stronger than simply welding on a little piece directly on the cut end of the bar.