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Anyone have experience building an ITA/ST2 1st gen. race car?

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Old 11-09-03, 03:21 PM
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RX7Carl - on that note...did your car come with 4.88's or did you change it? If you converted it...how much did it cost you?
Old 11-09-03, 03:28 PM
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I got a list of ST2 rules from EMRA...here they are for engine/trans

Engine and Drive Train
1.4.1 Ignition systems are free. However, the spark must be triggered and distributed by an engine driven distributor, unless OEM ignition uses a DIS or crank triggered unit. Note: A two distributor Mazda RX-2 is permitted to run a Mazda single distributor system.
1.4.2 A maximum of .040" wear limit is allowed on cylinders, and .060" over 25 years old.

1.4.3 Air cleaners are free, but no horns, tubes, or extensions, other than OEM may be attached to the inlet system. Jetting, needles, or injectors may be changed. Carburetor throttle springs and injector throttle body return springs may be changed or altered. A minimum of two return springs is required.

1.4.4 The maximum allowable compression ratio is 10.5:1 or stock, if stock is higher. Any head gasket may be used.

1.4.5 The oil system is free. An oil filter may be added, removed, or relocated.

1.4.6 The muffler and/or catalytic converter may be removed or replaced. Exhaust system routing may be changed, provided that the exhaust exits outside the perimeter of the car and behind a point halfway between the axle centerlines. Under all circumstances the exhaust must exit behind the driver.

1.4.7 For carbureted cars only, the use of an aftermarket header and an aftermarket bolt on carburetor is permitted. A bolt on carburetor is defined as being the same type (down or side draft), same number of barrels/venturis, and mounted to the stock intake manifold using a suitable adaptor.

1.4.8 Note: Cars with single barrel carburetors can run double barrel carburetors on the stock manifold with the appropriate adaptor, unless noted otherwise.

1.4.9 For fuel injected cars only, use of an aftermarket exhaust header or an aftermarket air flow meter/throttle body, BUT NOT BOTH, is permitted. Throttle body and airflow sensor must remain stock (within the limits of update/backdate rules), but sensor reading to computer, or computer, may be modified for the purpose of timing and/or mixture adjustments. Injectors may be changed.

1.4.9 Any radiator is permitted in the original location, with no modifications to the mounting bulkhead. The cooling fan may be removed or replaced.

1.4.10 The fuel pump is free, provided it is mounted and plumbed safely.

1.4.11 Manifold/cylinder head port matching is permitted providing that no material is removed further than 1" from the manifold mounting face. No other porting/polishing is allowed. Porting/Polishing/matching is prohibited on rotary engines.

1.4.12 Updating/Backdating of final drive ratios (ring and pinion gears only) and of cylinder heads (same number and size of valves, same number of ports, cams, and belts,from same or lower class) from the same manufacturer which will bolt in/on with no machining is permitted.

1.4.13 Adjustable camshaft timing pulleys are permitted.

1.4.14 Limited slip or welded differentials are allowed.

1.4.15 Alternate engine pulleys are permitted.
Old 11-11-03, 08:19 AM
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Originally posted by Barwick
Greaaaaaaat.... the car I'm buying has a 5.12 rear end. Luckily for me the track I run at you don't top out at anything more than about 110 unless you've got a really high powered car
Ah that'll prolly be ok for you then. If not, sell it, youll get your money for it to get a 4.88
Old 11-11-03, 08:22 AM
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Originally posted by Ben 84 RX-7
RX7Carl - on that note...did your car come with 4.88's or did you change it? If you converted it...how much did it cost you?
Nah, I bought it. My POS is built from a streetcar by me. I got it from Mazdacomp, much cheaper than anywhere else. IIRC, around $250
Old 11-12-03, 09:16 PM
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great reading!

i'm new to the racing/rx7 scene, and am looking for a nice car to get licensed and learn with.

locally, IT7's are the thing. i'm hoping to have pick up a car in the next month, so i can make the trip to roebling road in febuary for the school.

the local track (VIR) has a couple of long straights, and a lot of twisty's.
Old 11-13-03, 10:43 AM
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Cool, good luck. And dress warm. The only time I was warm was when I was in the car LOL. And remember, the only thing to win at school is your license, temper any agressiveness with that.
Old 11-13-03, 06:50 PM
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Originally posted by Rx7carl
Cool, good luck. And dress warm. The only time I was warm was when I was in the car LOL. And remember, the only thing to win at school is your license, temper any agressiveness with that.
BINGO!!! I was going to say the same thing! Depending on who you get your license from they usually have some kind of "student race" at the end to watch how everyone acts in traffic under race conditions. This race is won by everyone who finishes cleanly...no matter what place you finish in. They just want to make sure that you keep a cool head. They will be much more impressed by someone who backs off when someone is trying a banzai move underneath them and saves their car than they will be by the kamakaze! Not everyone in my student race got the complete license. Two guys were told they had to re-school because of stupid moves in the student race. Keep your car on-track, and keep it clean. Leave the door banging for the real races!
Old 11-14-03, 06:53 PM
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LOL, yea theres actually 2, 5 lap races at the double school, along with 3 false starts for each. There were a few unfortunate incidents in both races. Thankfully none I was involved in. Although I did put enough pressure on a fellow IT7 guy enough that he lost it in 6, tried to hook it back on track (bad place at RRR to do that) and ended up croossing the track in front of me. Just made it through. I did most of my passing at school on drivers that were off course.

Tip- if you drop a wheel or 2 either in 6 or comming off 9 onto the front straight, just let her stay 2 wheels off till you get it slowed enough to pull it back on track. If you dont and try to get it right back on track...........in 6 youll end up shooting across the track, back into the grass, and off 9 youll do the same thing, except theres the concrete wall for the pit area, which will total your car, and possibly worse. Turn 4 is the tightest turn, meaning slowest. I passed alot of cars that were in the grass there. It does take a bit of banzai braking at the end of the straight going into turn one. Start with a conservative braking point, and move it up as you get comfortable. I'm no hotshoe, just have run many many laps there. so thats about all I can help with.
Good Luck.
Old 11-15-03, 09:43 PM
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thanks for the tips!

i did a little car shopping, today. unfortunatly, there's not much available in the area. i looked at a 1st g crx, that was well in budget and a ITS Rx7 that was no where near budget (sweet car though!).

hoop
Old 11-16-03, 10:19 AM
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Originally posted by iambhooper
thanks for the tips!

i did a little car shopping, today. unfortunatly, there's not much available in the area. i looked at a 1st g crx, that was well in budget and a ITS Rx7 that was no where near budget (sweet car though!).

hoop
Keep an eye on ebay for used race cars. I bought my car on ebay already built for only $2,400! It was close enough that I could go and look at it in person before I bid which was a bonus. There are usually a few race cars on there and most likely come with spares.
Old 11-16-03, 01:07 PM
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Also look on www.improvedtouring.com Its the end of the season, there will be availible cars for sale as people switch classes or move up, on, or out.
Old 11-16-03, 08:21 PM
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i'm familiar with improvedtouring.com unfortunatly, there's not a lot of activity on it, and if there is it's usually far away.

strangely, theres not been much on ebay either. mostly modifieds or spec racers.
Old 11-18-03, 05:28 PM
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Just search SCCA in ebay. There were 3 or 4 1st gen IT cars on there in the past week or so.
Old 11-20-03, 04:49 PM
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