I may need to see if someone had a fender roller i can rent, fucked up and didnt do it before the paint..

This is only my opinion, but a fender roller is a waste of time and energy. I used one on a friends s14, the real nice expensive one, and its super time consuming!! I found a MUCH better approach is to purchase a good selection of wood dowels from a lumber yard in the area. Start with a small dowel, like 1-2" o.d. , and continue on up in size. Its much easier, as the weight of the car will do all the hard work, and have a friend push it forward and backward. You will have to get a hand for it, like how much of a angle on the dowel while rolling, but the results will be very nice once you get the hang of it. The front of the FD is hard though, as the fenders are aluminum, and the paint will crack easy if its not soft enough. Good luck!

Oh-BTW- Nice progress!! The car looks great!

Are you going NA rotary with this project?

Yeah, its going to go 13b PP with fuel injection

Damn, very very impressive Rob. This car is going to be absolutely killer when it's done.

Nice! Good luck!

You rock, I want your car

This is very nice... too rich for me though... If only I had the money...

Lookin good. Just curious, what size tires/wheels you looking at? I am building a FD for local track events.

I can't wait till I'm out of college and can do stuff like this. Oh well, at least I can auto x

LOL ! you just gotta work hard to play hard. as for the tires, i will be using 285/30/18 and 245/35/18

why not 285's all around? they fit with coilovers.

Tire sizes
 

I dont think i should go any bigger than 245 in the front because of the turning issue. may hit inside the well. has does anyone have any expirience with this?

Run 285's....... as long as your offset is correct.......I believe 45-50mm.....( I may be wrong) you shouldn't have a problem........

To take it one step farther hoosier makes a 295 only .4" wider then the 285.
The 18" wheel makes fitmint easier.

I am running 17's..... 275 front and 295 rear...It is a great set up but I can't get the front end low because of the overall diameter.......an issue you won't have as the 285/18 are about the same diameter as stock.....

BTW...I ran 245/40 17 up front for a while.....and the car was very very low....great aero but lousy geometry.....changing to the 275 front and the increase in ride height has dramatically improved the "feel" of the car.

Go 285 up front, you won't be disappointed.
Cheers
Niles

A smaller front tire is desirable on the street, but you'll want the bigger one up front on the track.

Nice progress and can't wait to see it in the light.

Either roll or cut the front lips from the fenders for 285/30/18's up front. If you don't under compression the tire can catch a lip and rip it out.

+50mm on my 18x10.5" CCW's works great. Call John at CCW to get hooked up. Titanium bolt options saves 10 ounces I believe per rim. Mine were 19.6lbs.

Good reference here: http://www.negative-camber.org/crispyrx7/

I love the color and the black roof. Can't wait to see the car in one piece.

i gues that i will have to go with an 18x9.5 rim all the way around and then go with 285 all the way around. just have to make sure i can find a 45 or 50mm offset

IF you don't have rims yet, go at least with a 10" width min.

Even if you don't end up buy a CCW wheel, John can give you the advice you need to get the correct size....

Although I don't have CCW's now, I highly recommend them as I have had them on previous cars.

since your putting all this money into this car why stop at a N/A 13B PP why not a N/A 20B pp? sorry if this was already asked i just glanced through all of the posts. i'm not really sure what the max power you can get out of a N/A 13b but it doesn't seem it could be enough to full utilize what kind of car your biulding here. it would seem way underpowered. maybe this is in the regs for scca same engine N/A. i guessing your building this to compet with older FCs and Miatas?

Engine
 

2 reasons i cannot do a 20b PP. #1 $. Dont have the cash. This may look like an expensive project. And thats looking at it from a perspective that im doing everything myself other than the roll cage and the paint. Im already running into fund shortage situations and im not even complete with the motor yet. second. The car is being built to compete in SCCA GT2 class which is allowed to run 13pp as of last year. for me to run a 20b pp. i would have to run in GT 1 and in that class the least of my problems would be older Rx7 and miatas. In the game of racing, its not by how much power you have only. Its a ratios game. And if you take the HP to weight ratio im shooting for which is in the mid sixes. I should be just fine. the rest will be up to my driving. RX7 = 2200lb with driver 325 HP 13b PP (6.77 HP to weight ratio) Camaro 3200 with driver 500 HP 8cyl (6.40 HP to weight ratio) See the comparison

I have 285/30/18's all around using 18x10 CCW wheels (track use). At anything close to full lock the fronts do contact the fender liner. Not an issue for the track because you shouldn't ever be at full lock anyway. Street use it may be any issue.

I run 4x 285/30-18s BFG KDs on Enkei RPF1 9.5s with +38 offest on the street. Yeah they rub the liners but only at full lock or big bumps (and my liners are precious because...?), and you have to roll (or cut) fenders as mentioned, but you can rotate them for life and the car is stuck like glue. No rubbing on hard components and for 1400 shipped for the wheels the price is tough to beat with a stick!

Because on the left front a main wiring harness is attached just behind. If you wear through the top of the liner you then wear through the electrical wiring...