Carl Byck

BTW, I cannot exactly tell from the pictures, but if you have mounted one cooler in front of the other you are completely defeating the parallel set-up benefit as the air is heated by the first cooler, thus decreasing the difference as in an "in series" set-up. I'd like to see the Speed Source set-up, it sounds interesting. Ideally the coolers would be outboard, but cost of two correct size coolers as good as the TII coolers is over 500.00 IIRC, not to mention I have brake ducts there. Carl

jgrewe

iTrader: (1)

I'll get pics of my mock-up. I welded some angle iron tabs/brackets to the round frame tube that runs between the frame rails. I have two going straight down and two going up and angling forward to make the cooler follow the radiator angle. I use the stock isolator rubber mounts and have the top cooler flipped so the holes are on the pass side. The lower cooler dumps air below the rad with a little shrouding to guide things along. The upper cooler is flat up against the radiator under the core support. I split the oil coming from the engine using a huge Moroso remote oil filter mount that has two in/two out. I just used one in/two out. All of this is custom shrouded with aluminum to make sure all the air that comes in the nose goes through coolers to get out. There is also some deflectors in the shrouded area to create higher pressure in front of the oil coolers to keep the air from taking the easy way out through the rad only.

I'm sure Carl and C.Ludwig will second that sealed shrouding is very important for a good cooling system.

CrispyRX7

iTrader: (139)

Well crap. Guess I'll leave it hanging there then. Thanks
Crispy

CrispyRX7

iTrader: (139)

For my setup each cooler will get it's own fresh cool air supply even though one is placed behind the other. From what Chris said this is also what Speedsource is doing albeit slightly differently than me
Crispy

Turbo23

iTrader: (4)

wrankin, my setup is basically the same on my T2. I however put my oil cooler alittle further up, and made my holes alittle bigger for less restricted airflow. Im thinking of doing the dual setup, but Im not a dedicated track king like carl. If I can find another cooler for cheap, I will try the dual system since I need to order my AN stuff anyways.

IAN

iTrader: (3)

I am in the exact position. I am hitting 250°F in like two laps at only 5psi of boost. Mind you I have a greddy VSPL FMIC installed and that takes alot of air flow out. (My car is running haltech e6k To4b60-1 etc)

I was looking at the parrallel oil cooler setup but wondering if I have to make up new lines and fittings would it not be better to purchase a bigger better oil cooler?

What about reverse hoods?


http://www.bakerprecision.com/setrab.htm

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

You're really not going to beat the quality or BTU potential of the stock cooler. Plan on spending well over $500 for anything close. In your situation the lack of airflow means you can have the uber cooler and it wouldn't be enough.

CrispyRX7

iTrader: (139)

IAN,
Your issue is not the size of the cooler but it's location (relative to the FMIC) and the lack of airflow. Fix the airflow and your problem will go away.

Consider also that the FMIC is also reducing airflow to your radiator. It's the radiator and oil cooler combined to keep temps down. Get the water temps down as well and the oil temps will come down also...similarly get oil temps down and down will come coolant temps.
Sounds like your oil temps are getting so high so quickly you haven't had the time to overheat the coolant also.

FMIC's are the scourge of road racing

Crispy

Rotortuner

Im going to ditch the stock oil cooler and go to this much larger unit. Its an inch and a half thick and is about the size of the stock radiator. Its also a double pass and will add a lot more oil capacity. I have the mounting almost figured out. Im going to make a special aluminum frame with scoop so that it can mount flat (parallel to the road) infront/beneth the radiator. It will scop air throught it up into the engine bay.

CJG

IAN

iTrader: (3)

More airflow eh. I will have to look into this. Not sure how to introduce more air flow.

You are right thought. Seems like my oil temps increase so fast the coolant has not had time to catch up since it still appeared normal. I was going to install a lip but not many front bumper lips for the s4


thanks for the input. I will post pictures/description if I do get this solved.

CrispyRX7

iTrader: (139)

And herein lies the problem with FMIC's. They are air hogs.

The radiator at least has the ability to *pull* air through it by using the fan as temps increase whereas the poor oil coolers have to rely on natural airflow.
Add to this the radiator is a larger heat sink and will thus be able to absorb more heat energy before saturating. The smaller oil cooler will saturate quicker and thus oil temps will rise faster. This among other reasons.

I have an S5 aftermarket lip on my S4 bumper. It's not a perfect fit but it does fit.

Good luck, you've got a tough problem to solve.
Crispy

Turbo23

iTrader: (4)

kinda digging it back up, but as for the T-stats, what Ive come to gather is you dont need them, if you drive street, just let yout car warm up, if you dont like it, keep the thermostats. NOW my question, shouldnt you really only need 1 stat? For the first cooler receivning oil? That way when temps reach limits, and the stat opens, it will alow oil to run in the first cooler, then pass to the 2 cooler,which the T stat has been blocked off. Im sure once I mount my 2nd one, and begin plumbling everything, it will make better sense.

Eagle7

The oil cooler stat acts as a bypass. When the oil is cool, it flows from the inlet straight to the outlet. When it's warm the bypass is blocked off, and the oil is forced to flow through the cooling fins.

Turbo23

iTrader: (4)

Yes, well I kinda answered my own question there, once I read over it. I forgot you could block off the one, and force oil through it at all times, which I would assume to be more fail safe, and a over all Idea. Espically since I would assume most people who do go with a dual setup wont be driving the car everyday.

CrispyRX7

iTrader: (139)

It is key to note that the t'stat is a bypass valve and if you do remove it you MUST plug the hole with a bolt and nut or else oil will bypass the cooler ALL THE TIME.

As for only needing one t'stat, with the coolers in **PARALLEL** each cooler gets it's own oil feed so *if* you wanted temp control two t'stats would be needed.

Crispy

wrankin

And, as I think our earlier poster realized, if the coolers are in series then you still need to be running both thermostats if you want them to actually function correctly.

Just restating the not-so-obvious.

-b

oberent

Bill and Crispy, My oil cooler set up was patterned after Dave Lemons setup. He doesn't have the hole in the front bumper but he feeds air through the headlight opening with a duct. He said being in series causes less of an oil pressure drop than running them in parallel. He has pictures on the Mazdatrix websight.. P.

wrankin

Hey Paul, thanks for the pointer. I went and found Dan's pictures.

( for those who are interested: http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/epconv.htm )

-b

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Funny. These two pics show Lemon's car setup in parallel.